over-rev buzzer
04-25-02, 09:01 PM
#27
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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So you guys are just talking peak RPM at any given throttle blip.
I know the tachs (and speedos) do that. There is a brass bushing that can be loosened in the front of the gauge, under the needle...It's acctually the bearing bushing itself.
I've done this for the speedo and the tach. They respond quickly, and don't bounce with road bumps.
I know the tachs (and speedos) do that. There is a brass bushing that can be loosened in the front of the gauge, under the needle...It's acctually the bearing bushing itself.
I've done this for the speedo and the tach. They respond quickly, and don't bounce with road bumps.
04-26-02, 07:36 AM
#30
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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People don't realize that when something spins (Like a gyroscope) there are alot of harmonic and subharmonic vibrations that present themselves as simple side-to-side oscilations. When the vibration is in a cycle as complex as the rotors' path, the miniscule vibration is eminating from every direct, effectively covering the components in a "film" of vibration.
It's as if the entire rotor has expanded in size just a tiny bit...Just enough.
Actually, I just made that whole thing up.
I really have no ******* idea!
It's as if the entire rotor has expanded in size just a tiny bit...Just enough.
Actually, I just made that whole thing up.
I really have no ******* idea!
04-26-02, 07:46 AM
#31
Hunting Skylines
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Originally posted by Sterling
People don't realize that when something spins (Like a gyroscope) there are alot of harmonic and subharmonic vibrations that present themselves as simple side-to-side oscilations. When the vibration is in a cycle as complex as the rotors' path, the miniscule vibration is eminating from every direct, effectively covering the components in a "film" of vibration.
It's as if the entire rotor has expanded in size just a tiny bit...Just enough.
Actually, I just made that whole thing up.
I really have no ******* idea!
People don't realize that when something spins (Like a gyroscope) there are alot of harmonic and subharmonic vibrations that present themselves as simple side-to-side oscilations. When the vibration is in a cycle as complex as the rotors' path, the miniscule vibration is eminating from every direct, effectively covering the components in a "film" of vibration.
It's as if the entire rotor has expanded in size just a tiny bit...Just enough.
Actually, I just made that whole thing up.
I really have no ******* idea!
04-26-02, 06:42 PM
#34
Old [Sch|F]ool
Yeah, the dust from that stuff is something else, ain't it?
Just got done putting another card of the stuff in the manifold... a little hint is JB Kwik is just as good but it sets up a LOT faster. Costs the same, too. Smells worse when setting it up though
Just got done putting another card of the stuff in the manifold... a little hint is JB Kwik is just as good but it sets up a LOT faster. Costs the same, too. Smells worse when setting it up though
04-26-02, 06:48 PM
#35
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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More set time is fine by me. I can't stand more than 5 minutes at a time working with the crap. It gives me serious headaches.
I can have a beer in hand, smokin a bone, and that ****'ll still make me wanna puke!
I drill and plug with aluminum wherever possible.
I can have a beer in hand, smokin a bone, and that ****'ll still make me wanna puke!
I drill and plug with aluminum wherever possible.
04-26-02, 06:55 PM
#36
Old [Sch|F]ool
One thing I found is that gasoline causes it to shrink... when I pulled the carb off after a few months of use I found that most areas, instead of being nice and smooth, were concave in big ugly areas! On thing to think about.
04-27-02, 07:46 AM
#37
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When I first go my RX I was winding it up and the buzzer went off. Well I wasn't aware it had a over rev buzzer so I thought my radar detector went off. Slowed down looked around. Now nothing happens and I don't miss it. Detector still works thank God
04-27-02, 09:07 AM
#38
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Originally posted by peejay
It also explains why in 1st gear the buzzer goes off at an indicated 6500rpm, but in 2nd gear it's an indicated 6800 and in 3rd it's an indicated 7200. The buzzer is going off at the same RPM each time, but the tach lags behind. As mentioned before, the tach also reads too high, so at some point of acceleration the lag and the misadjustment cancel each other out, but frankly it hurts my head trying to reconcile two fudge factors like that
It also explains why in 1st gear the buzzer goes off at an indicated 6500rpm, but in 2nd gear it's an indicated 6800 and in 3rd it's an indicated 7200. The buzzer is going off at the same RPM each time, but the tach lags behind. As mentioned before, the tach also reads too high, so at some point of acceleration the lag and the misadjustment cancel each other out, but frankly it hurts my head trying to reconcile two fudge factors like that
04-27-02, 09:45 AM
#39
Old [Sch|F]ool
I'd go to the dragstrip and systematically determine the best shift point in each gear, which of course would be based on the factory tach readings.
04-27-02, 01:01 PM
#40
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OK, that's pretty general!!
Hopefully, I'll get enough play time at the track Sunday. The local 1/8th mile track now has a "Run Your Friends" format. It's red then green just like a traffic light. Wish me luck...
Hopefully, I'll get enough play time at the track Sunday. The local 1/8th mile track now has a "Run Your Friends" format. It's red then green just like a traffic light. Wish me luck...
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