1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

over-rev buzzer

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Old Apr 25, 2002 | 07:25 PM
  #26  
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I like my buzzer when I'm at the AutoX, since I'm not always starring at the tach, nice to hear when then engine is having fun
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Old Apr 25, 2002 | 09:01 PM
  #27  
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
So you guys are just talking peak RPM at any given throttle blip.
I know the tachs (and speedos) do that. There is a brass bushing that can be loosened in the front of the gauge, under the needle...It's acctually the bearing bushing itself.
I've done this for the speedo and the tach. They respond quickly, and don't bounce with road bumps.
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Old Apr 25, 2002 | 09:59 PM
  #28  
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over-revving-can cause u to spun a bearing. right?
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Old Apr 25, 2002 | 10:14 PM
  #29  
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You'll kill the apex seals before you hurt the bearings...
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 07:36 AM
  #30  
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
People don't realize that when something spins (Like a gyroscope) there are alot of harmonic and subharmonic vibrations that present themselves as simple side-to-side oscilations. When the vibration is in a cycle as complex as the rotors' path, the miniscule vibration is eminating from every direct, effectively covering the components in a "film" of vibration.
It's as if the entire rotor has expanded in size just a tiny bit...Just enough.

Actually, I just made that whole thing up.
I really have no ******* idea!
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 07:46 AM
  #31  
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Originally posted by Sterling
People don't realize that when something spins (Like a gyroscope) there are alot of harmonic and subharmonic vibrations that present themselves as simple side-to-side oscilations. When the vibration is in a cycle as complex as the rotors' path, the miniscule vibration is eminating from every direct, effectively covering the components in a "film" of vibration.
It's as if the entire rotor has expanded in size just a tiny bit...Just enough.

Actually, I just made that whole thing up.
I really have no ******* idea!
LOL! I thought you'd bloody lost the plot there for a second.
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 09:23 AM
  #32  
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Sterling, you've been holding the Du-More a little too long
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 06:11 PM
  #33  
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.

I think the JB Weld's done me in.
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 06:42 PM
  #34  
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Yeah, the dust from that stuff is something else, ain't it?

Just got done putting another card of the stuff in the manifold... a little hint is JB Kwik is just as good but it sets up a LOT faster. Costs the same, too. Smells worse when setting it up though
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 06:48 PM
  #35  
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
More set time is fine by me. I can't stand more than 5 minutes at a time working with the crap. It gives me serious headaches.
I can have a beer in hand, smokin a bone, and that ****'ll still make me wanna puke!
I drill and plug with aluminum wherever possible.
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 06:55 PM
  #36  
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One thing I found is that gasoline causes it to shrink... when I pulled the carb off after a few months of use I found that most areas, instead of being nice and smooth, were concave in big ugly areas! On thing to think about.
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 07:46 AM
  #37  
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When I first go my RX I was winding it up and the buzzer went off. Well I wasn't aware it had a over rev buzzer so I thought my radar detector went off. Slowed down looked around. Now nothing happens and I don't miss it. Detector still works thank God
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 09:07 AM
  #38  
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Originally posted by peejay


It also explains why in 1st gear the buzzer goes off at an indicated 6500rpm, but in 2nd gear it's an indicated 6800 and in 3rd it's an indicated 7200. The buzzer is going off at the same RPM each time, but the tach lags behind. As mentioned before, the tach also reads too high, so at some point of acceleration the lag and the misadjustment cancel each other out, but frankly it hurts my head trying to reconcile two fudge factors like that
So if you haven't got a monster tach like the kilah and you shift from first to second, about where (and I know you have to be very general in the answer...) should you shift if you want to keep engine speed at about 7500 rpm max? If you're using the factory tach...
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 09:45 AM
  #39  
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I'd go to the dragstrip and systematically determine the best shift point in each gear, which of course would be based on the factory tach readings.
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 01:01 PM
  #40  
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OK, that's pretty general!! Hopefully, I'll get enough play time at the track Sunday. The local 1/8th mile track now has a "Run Your Friends" format. It's red then green just like a traffic light. Wish me luck...
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