over heating fixed maybe?!?!
11-30-05, 04:14 PM
#1
wheres the water goin?
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over heating fixed maybe?!?!
my buddy come over today and we were lookin around in the car and he pulled up the passenger mat and it was wet ,soaking wet, so we took the heater hose from the driver side in the engine comepartment and routed to the where the passenger hose connects to where it runs to the radiator. we just bypassed the heater element. i havent really had a chance to test it yet bc we are puttin a flex fan on in place of the e-fan that i had on there. we did a pressure test on the the engine cooling system, we pumped it to 13 psi let it sit for about 10 minutes and it didnt drop a bit WOOHOO! i was really happy sense i dont really have the money to do a rebuild so it saves me some time and money! im going to go out and get some longer bolts for the flexfan tomorrow after we get released from work. and we are going to out the fan on. should i have a problem with out the shroud? i found a few new problems but that willl be an fix. so that was my day good and bad must mostly good if i can get her runnin right me and him are going to take my 1st gen se and his 94 touring up too reilgh nc for one the saturday meets! thanks for listening guys
charles
charles
12-01-05, 02:39 PM
#2
wheres the water goin?
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i went out and chked the radiator and its still full i started it up and everything is fine as of now. im going on emergency leave today so when i get back here i ll chk it out once again and see where its at. i have a question or two though.
1. if i dont have a fan shroud for this flex fan that im putting on is there going to be a big difference in the cooling?
2. is there any big draw backs to bypassing my heating unit from the firewall ?
1. if i dont have a fan shroud for this flex fan that im putting on is there going to be a big difference in the cooling?
2. is there any big draw backs to bypassing my heating unit from the firewall ?
12-01-05, 11:41 PM
#4
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Trochoid is right regarding the shroud - there is a reason why every car manufacturer out there uses them; because they significantly increase the ability for the fan to draw air through the radiator. For that reason, alone, it's worth doing the effort to installl the shroud correctly.
On bypassing the heater core - I did this about 2 years ago after having the heater core valve go out for the 2nd time. I had the radiator shop crimp and weld the heater feed pipe on the lower radiator tube, and then fashioned a 'plug' for the left side of the engine block where the heater core returns the coolant to the block (right below the oil filter tower). This kills your heater (obviously), but I live in AZ, and the winters here never get below about 30deg F. I wear a jacket when it's that cold out, anyway.
I'd say you gain some reliability by bypassing the heater core, since that heater return hose always got oil soaked from the filter tower O-rings getting old and would develop pinhole leaks or burst at the worst possible time. I highly recommend this mod, as long as you don't live somewhere that you need a heater! HTH,
On bypassing the heater core - I did this about 2 years ago after having the heater core valve go out for the 2nd time. I had the radiator shop crimp and weld the heater feed pipe on the lower radiator tube, and then fashioned a 'plug' for the left side of the engine block where the heater core returns the coolant to the block (right below the oil filter tower). This kills your heater (obviously), but I live in AZ, and the winters here never get below about 30deg F. I wear a jacket when it's that cold out, anyway.
I'd say you gain some reliability by bypassing the heater core, since that heater return hose always got oil soaked from the filter tower O-rings getting old and would develop pinhole leaks or burst at the worst possible time. I highly recommend this mod, as long as you don't live somewhere that you need a heater! HTH,
12-02-05, 09:46 AM
#5
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There are times when you need hot air to de-mist the windshield. It's not really that hard to replace the heater hose that goes under the beehive.
Hard for me to understand why anyone wants to waste time and money replacing the perfectly good mechanical fan on this car. Most likely you need a new thermostat and/or radiator cap. Do yourself a favor and get the OEM tstat and cap from mazdatrix. I fixed cooling problems on two cars this year that way.
Hard for me to understand why anyone wants to waste time and money replacing the perfectly good mechanical fan on this car. Most likely you need a new thermostat and/or radiator cap. Do yourself a favor and get the OEM tstat and cap from mazdatrix. I fixed cooling problems on two cars this year that way.
12-02-05, 05:18 PM
#6
wheres the water goin?
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Originally Posted by bliffle
There are times when you need hot air to de-mist the windshield. It's not really that hard to replace the heater hose that goes under the beehive.
Hard for me to understand why anyone wants to waste time and money replacing the perfectly good mechanical fan on this car. Most likely you need a new thermostat and/or radiator cap. Do yourself a favor and get the OEM tstat and cap from mazdatrix. I fixed cooling problems on two cars this year that way.
Hard for me to understand why anyone wants to waste time and money replacing the perfectly good mechanical fan on this car. Most likely you need a new thermostat and/or radiator cap. Do yourself a favor and get the OEM tstat and cap from mazdatrix. I fixed cooling problems on two cars this year that way.
i did repalce with oem on both tstat and cap. when i got the car it had 2 500 or 600 cfm fans from pepboys or something, i pulled them off and put a single fan 2300 cfm on . i put a tstat in bc it didnt have one, the heater core was leaking into the passenger side of the car so thats why i bypast it right now its a temp fix. i have an efan that blows 2300 cfm pulling and 2700 cfm pushing. my buddy had a flex fan that he was going to put on his 2gen b4 i rebuilt the eng so he is giving it to me to get by for awhile. it looks like a 12" fan and its rated upto 6500 rpms b4 it looses its cooling effecencey. there is a salvage yard in fayetteville nc that has a few 1st gens hes a bit priciy but i ll chk it out. im in american canyon ca right now they have a few yards here i ll chk them out when the wife is at work.
12-02-05, 05:22 PM
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wheres the water goin?
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Originally Posted by LongDuck
Trochoid is right regarding the shroud - there is a reason why every car manufacturer out there uses them; because they significantly increase the ability for the fan to draw air through the radiator. For that reason, alone, it's worth doing the effort to installl the shroud correctly.
On bypassing the heater core - I did this about 2 years ago after having the heater core valve go out for the 2nd time. I had the radiator shop crimp and weld the heater feed pipe on the lower radiator tube, and then fashioned a 'plug' for the left side of the engine block where the heater core returns the coolant to the block (right below the oil filter tower). This kills your heater (obviously), but I live in AZ, and the winters here never get below about 30deg F. I wear a jacket when it's that cold out, anyway.
I'd say you gain some reliability by bypassing the heater core, since that heater return hose always got oil soaked from the filter tower O-rings getting old and would develop pinhole leaks or burst at the worst possible time. I highly recommend this mod, as long as you don't live somewhere that you need a heater! HTH,
On bypassing the heater core - I did this about 2 years ago after having the heater core valve go out for the 2nd time. I had the radiator shop crimp and weld the heater feed pipe on the lower radiator tube, and then fashioned a 'plug' for the left side of the engine block where the heater core returns the coolant to the block (right below the oil filter tower). This kills your heater (obviously), but I live in AZ, and the winters here never get below about 30deg F. I wear a jacket when it's that cold out, anyway.
I'd say you gain some reliability by bypassing the heater core, since that heater return hose always got oil soaked from the filter tower O-rings getting old and would develop pinhole leaks or burst at the worst possible time. I highly recommend this mod, as long as you don't live somewhere that you need a heater! HTH,
charles
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12-02-05, 10:59 PM
#8
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
You'd know if the heater core flow valve is bad, because everytime you step on the gas, it would squirt hot coolant on your gas pedal foot.
It's obvious. Also, if your driver's side carpeting is always wet and you have a coolant 'smell' inside the car, that's a good indicator...
It's obvious. Also, if your driver's side carpeting is always wet and you have a coolant 'smell' inside the car, that's a good indicator...
12-03-05, 08:19 PM
#9
wheres the water goin?
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Originally Posted by LongDuck
You'd know if the heater core flow valve is bad, because everytime you step on the gas, it would squirt hot coolant on your gas pedal foot.
It's obvious. Also, if your driver's side carpeting is always wet and you have a coolant 'smell' inside the car, that's a good indicator...
It's obvious. Also, if your driver's side carpeting is always wet and you have a coolant 'smell' inside the car, that's a good indicator...
cool thats what i was lookin for thank you LongDuck im going to find a new one when i ge back from cali
charles
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