one rotor
09-01-13, 09:38 PM
#3
I had an 87 sport parts car with a blown rear rotor. I had to bump the idle up a bit to get it to idle smoothly at 800RPM ish. It ran ok, but you had to really load the clutch up and spool your gears up really high before shifting. I got it up to about 60 MPH in 3rd gear at something like 3000 RPM. Ill warn you though, it will drink gas like no other. I think I put 5-6 gallons in that car and on my 13-14 mile cruise I ran out of gas idling in the drive way minutes after returning.
If there was a way to maybe block off the fuel supply to the blown rotor...
If there was a way to maybe block off the fuel supply to the blown rotor...
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09-03-13, 09:43 AM
#9
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Anyone have any expierence with Rotary Response and Racing - Mazda RX7 Rotary parts and performance , RX-8 I am new to rotary motors, learning more every day. I started off with a street port on a motor I was told was recently rebuilt. Again, I'm new to rotary motors and did not have the common sense to check the seals when I had the motor apart. The rotors were a little intimidating but I do have a few things I will do differently next time around. It looks like my rear rotor has almost no pressure and I'm guessing will need new seals, I don't think all, it sounds like it has one good one. Does the sound of the motor really tell that much about the compression (I did use a guage)? It looks like rotary response sells individual seals, used. I know you get what you pay for but I am on a budget and the carb is eating up most of my extra cash, it looks like you can get a set of seals for under 200$ from them.
09-03-13, 05:50 PM
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Embarrassing as it is, I just got a reading of 10 psi in the front rotor and a fat zero in the rear. How can it produce no compression at all. The motor wont stay running but it does fire. Looks like I need to punt.
09-04-13, 12:58 AM
#14
Dont throw in the towel! Pull the exhaust off. Spray some seafoam aerosol and carb cleaner inside the exhaust ports and turn the engine over a few times to circulate it. Press the apex seals in and out with your finger. Like a massage. Do it over and over. After the cleaner has soaked for a day or two do it over and over again. I guarantee it will loosen the apex seals up at least some as long as there is no tip damage or sever carbon buildup at the springs.
09-07-13, 08:59 AM
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A little update. I have found several posts related to this and have tried several things for a few days. After day 2 of soaking I was getting a compression reading on the rear. As low as it was it was a improvement, maybe it was from all the cleaner in the gaps, it gave me a little hope. That was yesterday afternoon. I will keep it up over the weekend and hopefully this will work. Next build time I have a list of things to do differently but it has been enjoyable and I have learned a lot.
09-07-13, 09:28 AM
#18
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Sorry for all the questions but what way do I want to push. I would think inward but if you look at the rotor through the port, it looks as if I should been working it upward.
09-07-13, 12:41 PM
#19
Push inward with your finger tip. In and out. They are magnetic, but I would be careful sticking anything hard inside. You could either scratch the seals or drop it into the engine. I had an engine with 3 stuck seals once. I did this method and managed to unstick 2 of them. I couldn't get it to run right so the guy who sold it to me took it back and sold it to someone else who got it running great on the first startup. So I probably needed to run it more... Or it continued to soak in that time period.
I used Seafoam aerosol (foams up) and a can of carb cleaner. When you go to start it you want to squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil in it. Not much. This stuff smokes like crazy.
I used Seafoam aerosol (foams up) and a can of carb cleaner. When you go to start it you want to squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil in it. Not much. This stuff smokes like crazy.
09-07-13, 02:21 PM
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I have been using seafoam, atf, carb cleaner, mystery oil, etc. I was thinking about trying some acetone but not sure if thats a good idea. It seems like a few seals may have moved a little, they feel like they stick out more than they did before. I do understand why push starting or towing a car would release the seals. I have been using a piece of wood, pine, to push on the seals. Hopefully this will be soft enough to not harm them.
09-07-13, 10:31 PM
#22
Avoid acetone, probably bad for the soft seals. Once you get it started take it for a drive ASAP even if it runs like crap. The inertia of the rotation should let the seals slide out of their grooves. especially if it is red lined. What do you have to loose if it is already assumed dead?
09-08-13, 06:46 PM
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Today i tested the compression and its not much better, it is better though 20 psi. I also ran compressed air through the motor. Air just blew threw, sounded pretty shitty. I am giving it one more day of soaking and i will try and start it. If that doesnt go well the motor is coming out. If i do take the motor, the tranny is coming with. That was a real bitch to get back in.
09-10-13, 07:32 AM
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I have been trying to get the seals free for about a week and I am having no luck. I know I could try and push start it, I probably should just do it. I am planning on taking the motor back out this week, it will give me a chance to check my work (it was my first time on a rotary). This time I am taking the motor and tranny together. The hardest part last time was lining up the motor with the tranny.