Bigmotoxer

I just got my RB header and exhaust installed. Used the two block off plates(after removing metal pipes that used to go to cats,accv,ect). Cranked the car and it cranked but would only run if I continued to slightly and steadily pumped the throttle, at first I thought it was really lean and the steady pumping of the pedal was the extra fuel from the accel pump to keep it running but I'm not sure that may sound dumb just seemed like that to me. But it could be a number of things. Was there anything else I need to block off? And when I removed airpump and valves, ect I just unplugged the wires that they were connected to and let them hang...didn't think I would have to do anything w/wiring?
But what I did notice was when I shut the car off thinking "tomorrow's another day", I walked around to the passenger side and the rear header(next to the block) was RED, almost transparent but the front was fine. WTF?

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

sounds like you've got a vacum leak.... did you use rtv on the plates when you installed them???...also check the vac hose going to your brake booster...poor idle is a symptom of vac leak..and glowing header primary indicates that the rear housing is running lean...so look for a leak in that general area....it's almost always something that you missed, so double and tripple check everything...and if you still can't figure it out...come back here, and we'll go from there..

Bigmotoxer

yeah I thought of a vacuum leak and I knew someone would say that,lol. I checked that, all small and larges hoses and plates, yes plates are sealed...i used gaskets w/copper sealant. B.booster line is new w/check-valve in place.
I agree w/the lean thing so I will look intensively tomorrow...thanks.

Oh what about the wires that I unhooked to remove accv, air-pump,ect? They just unhook and that's it?

Rogue_Wulff

Way back at the back of the intake, there is a ~1/2" hose that attaches to the rear runner. Make sure it is hooked up, or capped off. It's very easy to knock this hose off, while installing the rear blockoff plate, or even the header.

slowautoxr

iTrader: (6)

If you have dual carbs, they're not syncronized.

Kentetsu

1. Vacuum leak
2. Missed something that should have been blocked off
3. Leading/Trailing plug wires reversed on rear rotor
4. Blockage in carb starving rear barrel

That's all I can think of off the top of my head...

Bigmotoxer

Are you talking about the antiafterburn hose? That is hooked up...I spend 2 hours checking all possible hoses even b boost(again), I even removed block off plates and made new gaskets and sealant and re-installed(again)...it has to be some crap in the carb(again), I've changed my fuel filter(again) and removed carb once more and will spend the day thoroughly going through it again
thanks for input, any and all info is requested thanks

Bigmotoxer

No vacuum leaks, still seems like carb is starving for fuel...just weird that it does it now right after changing exhaust.

Everything is blocked that's suppossed to be I believe, there just isn't anything else to block, doesn't seem.

I'll check the wires, thanks.

I believe there may be blockage in carb at this point, I'm not quite sure what you mean by rear barrel though...I know what works what in this carb at this point but not the technical names, I'm not a vet yet, hey that rhymes!

mannyvidal

iTrader: (2)

check compression you might have a dead rotor

Rogue_Wulff

If you do have crud blocking passages inside the carb, add another fuel filter right before the carb. I'd rather change 15 filters, than teardown the carb for crud.
Yes, the AAV hose was the one I was refering to.
Make sure the shutter valve has no vacuum hooked to it. it should only operate on decceration, with the rats nest still in place. When the rats nest is removed, it should not have any vacuum hose hooked up to it.

Bigmotoxer

You were right Wolff...had a piece of crap stuck in the main primary jet...yeah I love changing fuel filters, now that I hate tearing down the carb so much
I thought the shutter valve was suppose to have vacuum hooked to it?
Wait where is the shuttervalve again(I'm sure we're talking about the same thing but I need to be sure here).

Rogue_Wulff

Shutter valve is located under the carb, near the engine, towards the back. It closes off the fuel/air going into the rear rotor, during decceration.

Bigmotoxer

oh yeah that's what I'm talking about too, so since I've removed airpump and installed block-offs you're saying that I dont want to have a vacuum hooked to this now?

Rogue_Wulff

Yep. Having vacuum running to the shutter valve, will close off all air/fuel to the rear rotor.

Bigmotoxer

Is this what you're talking about? http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ofImage090.jpg
I have it hooked up like it was from the factory, are saying this wrong now, sorry to be so persistant but I want to be sure, you know?

BTW this is hooked up too, http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/Image084.jpg
it's operational, I can hear it clicking when I connect it, this should be hooked up right?

Rogue_Wulff

Have you still got the rats nest? If not, unhook the vacuum hose shown in pic 1, and plug it. If the rats nest is still in place, and the engine now runs correctly, with the jet unplugged, you can leave it hooked up. If the engine is still running oddly, try unhooking that hose.
I keep that line capped on my car, as the throttle position sensor is out of adjustment, and the shutter valve was opening under a light throttle cruise condition after I installed my header. I haven't yet removed the rats nest, but most of it is disabled.
Pic 2 is the float bowl vent solenoid. It needs to be hooked up. With or without the rats nest. When unhooked, flooding can result.

Bigmotoxer

Rats nest is still stock and since I've unplugged the primary jet in the front bowl it runs awesome, very smooth, accels quickly off of initial press of pedal and all the way through rpm ranges. I'm so happy I can hardly stand it

Kentetsu

Glad you got here going man.