Quick question. Im blocking off my omp because the throttle attachment got lost somewhere in my garage and i dont wanna spend $180 on a new pump because im missing a spring and some washers and no one is parting out near me 😔. So im blocking off the omp. The question is do I have to drain all the oil out before i take off the the omp because oil will pour out or is that not necessary? Help me out

 

Nah im pretty sure its above your oil pan.

I didnt drain the oil on my FC when i blocked it off

 

Same here

 

It's well above the pan level, so youre Fine to R&R without draining.

You ARE going to premix, then, right? In the end, a working OMP is a great convenience and one reasony why Mazda saw fit to install one on all of our cars...

 

Until it fails and you blow your engine.

 

Other than the s5 ones, how many actually go bad? Especially the mechanical ones?

 

Why take a chance? Why burn dirty engine oil and create carbon buildup when you can burn low ash 2 stroke? Why not delete it so you can run full synthetic? I'm not going to get into a "which one is better" debate with you. Lots have failed.https://www.google.com/search?q=site...utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

I've been working on and driving RX-7's for 18 years and I have NEVER seen a mechanical OMP go bad. The S5 and later electric pumps that are ECU controlled I have seen fail. Quite often I might add. The mechanical pumps will last hundreds of thousands of miles. There's nothing that will really wear out as the shaft inside is constantly lubed with oil. I suppose if you starved the engine for oil then maybe the shaft would get scored but even then it would be tough to kill it. They can leak however, but a few new o-rings will solve that. I install new o-rings on every pump I pull off.

 

There's more to the OMP system than just the mechanical portions of it.

 

I'm not arguing that, i agree with that, i was just saying its rare for a mechanical one to go bad, other than old leaking o-rings

 

Yeep, i may have taken too many hits that morning.

 

If you're talking about a 12A, then no, there' s not much more to it than a drive gear, the pump, the rod with washers and cotter pin, two lines and injector nozzles on, the carb. If we're talking about a 13B from an SE, its basically the same same with the addition of oil injectors on the housings instead of nozzles on the carb.

The pumps do fail from time to time but its usually from vehicles that had been neglected. Mazda recommended changing the oil every 7500 miles when the 7 was new so there's no telling how many people went longer on their oil change and then you'll see contaminated oil taking its toll on the engine and it's components. I am an avid supporter of premix however. I do agree that using dirty oil for the combustion chamber is not the best thing, so premixing definitely has its advantages.