Excuse my noobyness but it'd probably take awhile to find this while searching

When i rebuild the omp, I remove it yeah? So would oil leak out?

The oil was changed a bit ago and the sticker on the window says 94k miles and im almost there (the old owner had the oil changed a bit before i bought it)

Sooo should I wait on rebuilding the omp or do it? I'm premixing atm so the only pita is the smoke after hard drives

 

Do not use ATF as a premix. It can do more harm then good. Use 2 cycle oil.

I have to ask, why do you want to rebuild the OMP? Is it not working.

 

2200 posts and you're claiming NOOB status? Sounds like laziness to me.

Anyway, since I've got spare time...!

The OMP is worth rebuilding. It's not that hard, it's held on by 2x10mm bolts, IIRC, and the lines themselves will be very brittle, so be careful. The Rebuild Kit is available from several places, and there are o-rings on the inside that will need to be replaced as part of the rebuild. Normally, these don't tend to go bad, but will start to leak oil around the edges which then splatters on your exhaust and can lead to underhood oil smoke. All up, the job takes maybe 2 hours if you're taking your time and it's hot outside.

As long as you let the oil settle after driving the car (yeah, cause it'd be hot, too), there will only be oil leakage from the OMP lines on the intake manifold. The OMP is mounted slightly above the oil pan, so it's not like it's going to geyser on you.

Oil changes are one of the things I attribute my 204k original engine miles to, so I'm a big believer in frequent oil changes, along with a filter. The only way to lube those apex seals is through oil injection (or pre-mix), and I'm too lazy to pre-mix every fillup. Good luck,

 

Pineappleracing.com has a rebuild kit complete with how-2 DVD: $25
Good time to change out those brittle, original oil metering tubes too...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

I got the rebuild kit yesterday thus my thread

I don't believe it is, the lines are 100% clear and look like no oil has gone in them, I think theres a area of the carb where the oil is injected I see old oil residue there and if I recall I saw the oil lines lead near by.

The OMP just dumps out oil, after drives the engine bay will plume smoke enough to make friends and such be like "IS YOUR CAR GONNA BLOW UP?!"

My car sounded funny so I thought hell I'll premix, I got some and the engine sounded much happier so I'm assuming the omp wasnt pumping...

I'm too lazy too premix too man, plus it costs 4$ a bottle of premix.

Nah I was just wondering if the oil would leak, I don't got a place to work on my car but if marginal oil will drip out I can sneak the omp rebuild in my grandmas driveway

If she found a lot of oil on the ground that'd not be good, its against the rules where she lives to work on cars and old people walk by all the time and just stare at me whenever I have a car hood open and then run off to the managers and tell them

but thanks man, I didn't think about that it being higher then the oil pan, I just imagined oil oozing out all over everything, it already leaks enough to leave oil on the driveway

I'll try to tackle this soon.

 

i got my omp rebuild kit from lowe performance. came with directions and its pretty straightforward. i rebuilt it because i thought it was leaking and causing my engine to seem like "when is it going to blow up?" turns out it was the oil pan gasket.

anyways i premix just for added piece of mind. no way is it $4 a bottle. i get mine from wal-mart. make sure it is TC-W3 certified. its the blue tinted two stroke oil in a little convenient blue bottle for like $1.xx. i believe penzoil/quaker state manufactures the walmart supertech brand stuff. anyways get the little bottle because it has measurements on the side so you know how many oz. you want to pour in your tank. then i get the big one gallon bottle ($10-11) to refill my little bottle. i usually run .5oz tc-w3 two stroke/gal. of gas

 

^Yep I got it same place, fast shipping too.

I don't believe we got a walmart near by, I'll try to locate one.

 

lol you said that and im like "WHAT hes premixing ATF????" so i went back and read it... he says premixing atm.... atm= at the moment... not to worry hahah

 

is it possible that only one of the OMP side is pumping, and the other is dead?

ya, I know it is possible for one of the omp lines to leaks

 

My understanding of the (rather simple) pump internals is that mechanically, if it pumps out from one it pretty well HAS to pump thru the other too. Unless somehow the one output got plugged up, which I have never heard of happening (with in the pump - oil metering lines are another story)
Mazda does detail a test for these which involves pulling the lines off at the carb, running the engine for...6 min?... @ 2000rpm and measuring the amount of oil pumped into a container. Its only a few cc's. Presume the same test could be done for a minute or 2 just to see if flow from each pipe is present without damaging you engine. You could pre-"charge" the fuel system with, say, 8 oz of 2-cycle oil into the gas tank just to cover your self and the motor...

FWIW I add 8 oz of cheapo Wallmart brand 2 cycle oil with every fill-up, WITH a fully functioning OMO.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

mazda speed says that lowe's performance omp rebuild kit is three o-rings. I rebuilt it before, and recall replacing the two end caps o-rings. they still look ok.

last night when i took apart the OMP , a damaged smaller thicker o-ring came from somewhere? where does it go? it looks like it goes around the cylinder than pumps back and forth. or around the end of the shaft with the screw gear?

what I'm asking for are pictures, do not refer me to that lousy diagram on mazda speed's site.

and the pinappleracing.com video looks like it is for the FC 13b omp.

 

so where does the mystery o-ring go????

 

where's it go??

 

Here's my exploded-view shot from when I redid mine this year.




I don't see any o-ring that small in mine. There's the shaft seal for the metering camshaft (where the probe is pointing) but yours is in place and it's not a "o" ring anyway - - it's like a triple-lip seal.

Only o-ring I don't see in your picture is the one that goes around the inside (round) cover, very top of my pic. The ring you're pointing too looks to be too small to be that one, though.

 

great picture DivinDriver!!

yes, the o-ring with the dental pic I have
yes the o-ring with the clamp pointing to it , I have

I put an o-ring around the top of the worm screw(2nd from the top on your picture), and
another o-ring around the cam shaft.

where does the small o ring in Lowe's Performance rebuild kit go? I bought their kit before $36

end caps parallelogram o-ring , those I have. I may seal those end caps with Indian Head Gasket Maker.

thanks again Divin

Chino Hills huh? I use to live on saratoga. It had an epic view.

 

Only thing I can think of is that the small o-ring in the kit is meant to replace the specialty shaft seal on the control cam shaft, which was probably made specifically for the OMP and is now NLA. I've never used the rebuild kits, but that's my best guess.

Regarding the view; it still does, all the way out to Mt. Baldy. That epic view is what sold the house to my wife.

 

omp is working now

the solution was to put an o ring at the end of the control cam shaft, and seal the two ends with he parallel gram o rings with indian head gasket maker

I think that what I when I used the Lowe's Performance Kit, had allot going on back then with the engine swap.