TOFUDRIFTER

Hey guys!

My rx7 just got stored a few days ago, I want to try and remove the omp so i can start premixing, and take out the rats nest over the winter.

I have no idea how to do either, is there a thread of some sort for the removal of both?
Also, i know a lot of guys run 2 stroke in their tank for proper premixing, what spark plugs would you guys reccomend for doing something like that? I know im gonna need more spark to handle the premix, or at least thats what i think...

Thanks for the help guys!

Jibaro 12A

iTrader: (8)

search mr. drifter

zettairyouiki

What exactly is your reason for removing the OMP? From what I've read, they hardly ever fail. At most you stand to gain a simplification of removing two oil lines and a throttle linkage in exchange for the hassle and cost of adding 2stroke oil to your tank.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

No special plugs are needed for premix. The OMP is simple to remove. Disconnect the rod and remove two bolts. You'll need a block off plate. There's at least a couple places that sell these or you can make your own for next to nothing. Keep the gasket and put some RTV on either side to keep it from leaking. You may need to use a couple shorter bolts for the plate. Don't torque them down too tight because the threaded holes can strip out easily. I'd also recommend putting a sticker or something on your fuel cap to remind you to add premix. Always keep two bottles of premix in the car, one for fill ups and another one stashed away for emergencies. They sell TC-W3 at most gas stations but you never know.

Pretty sure the rat's nest removal link is in the FAQ.

cleksutin

ive heard that pre-mixing will prolong 12a engine life, but I cant imagine it does your carb any favors

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

I've been running no OMP and MMO for premix for 6 and a half years, and the previous owner did the same before that. I've rebuilt Nikki carbs that were premixed and those that were not and haven't seen any difference that would suggest harm. As far as it prolonging engine life, I can't really say because my motor is only at 129k which is fairly young for a stock port 12a.

cleksutin

That's what I'm talking about: Hard , proven facts. If you say no carb issues from premix after having done it for that long then I say "Myth BUSTED"

Leks

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Funny you should post this up TOFU, I'm here in MN as well and I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

I took my rats nest off last winter while it was in storage then put it on again in July, now probably back off this winter I actually got better mileage with mine off, as well as better performance.. so it's definitely coming off this year haha

OMP block off is another thing on my list but I'm not sure it's worth it as, previously stated, they reportedly almost never fail and are easily rebuildable. Might as well leave it if staying with a Nikki in my opinion. Less hassle on fill-ups, nothing to forget if someone else were to drive the car (heaven forbid, just mentioning it here), among many other things that I'm forgetting here.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I really don't see a reason to remove the OMP on these cars. Mine was capped off with no lines when I got the car so I decided to just remove it since I was used to premixing anyway. The most common failure is the plastic tubes cracking, which can be a mess but not catastrophic. Some argue that dumping old engine oil into your combustion cycle is bad for carbon buildup but I've seen stock 12a's make it to 200k while still running the system. I certainly don't see any problem in removing it though. It's one of those mods that I'm neutral on until I hear more solid facts.

Rats nest removal, on the other hand, I'll recommend to anyone who doesn't have to pass emissions. If anything, it reduces the chances of something going wrong by simplifying the system. Less vacuum lines and solenoids running around means less chance something is going to crumble apart and cause the car to run poorly. A clean engine bay is a happy engine bay

mjm4jc

OMP-----Possible pump failure and engine ruined; dirty, recycled oil injected onto seals for lubrication OR

Premix------never will fail, if mixed right; clean, non-recycled oil injected onto seals that actually keeps engine clean.

You decide!