twigg

I was doing a standing burnout, and this car has probably had a burn out done to it 10 times in its 99k miles on it. Barely any for a 20 year old car. I have original springs and shocks, When i was doing it i noticed holding the brakes the rear was hopping instead of grippin and spinning real well, then a aweful CLANK! noise was made.

My rear isnt whining at all. Its not clunkin anymore than it use to when switching gears. But now when i make a sharp all the way left or right U turn it makes awefull snapping and metal sounding clunk noises. I bounced up and down on the back of the car and its not my suspension as far as i can tell. Im hoping to god i didnt just break my rear end. Is it possible that i broke what mounts the rear end?

Thanks guys!

twigg

and it doesnt seem its my rear end mount, doesnt clunk when i shift or engage.

85rotarypower

Sounds like something inside the rear end. Mabey spider gears? Was the burnout 1 wheeled?

twigg

yea i dont have a LSD GS model

hornbm

yeah you pretty much narrowed it down. One tire fire burnouts are really really hard on the rear end

twigg

=( whats this estimately gonna cost me to fix it.


and what would it cost, or should it cost for the installation of a LSD rear end

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

Your best bet is to find another used rear end that has the LSD and swap it over.... Try a local Junkyard or maybe someone on the forum

peejay

You have broken your diff. Congratulations.

All it takes is one one-tire burnout to do it...

twigg

the car still rides fine, but it clunks now when i engage the clutch, and when doing sharp U turns it clanks and clunks very loud.

twigg

bah i meant to say it clunks when i go like 20 mph and put it in 3rd gear. and when i do sharp u turns. other than that, just driving normal so far i havent noticed anything real big... so i did break the differential? can that be rebuilt? for say $300 with labor?

peejay

There is no rebuilding. You done brokefied it. All there is is replacing.

PT Ray

That so reminds me of the go cart days with the 5hp Briggs Stratton engine doing the one wheel trench job on someones lawn.
My first fb was a base model with the uni-tracton, now all thats left is th vin plate off the dash sitting in my room.

twigg

Anyone know what i would pay with labor to get all this fixed, i need to work it in my budget, i gotta have this fixed, car is a daily driver and my only means of transportation. Just moved to tampa and dont know anyone. Im thinking of taking it to mazsport.net . I live only a couple miles from them. If i can afford it.. and its not over like 700 bucks, and the shop can get the part and install it for me. I really cant spend more than 900 bucks MAX to get this fixed right. Alot of experence ive had with rotary shops here in florida are bad. Allways trying to scam you and ripp you off in some way or another.

BAN SUVS

From what I have read around here you should be able to get a rearend from a local boneyard for about $150.

1SxyRXy

do the work your self, go to pick n pull and pull a whole rear dif out of a FB and put it in yours, its not very hard

twigg

i guess i could do that, but how can i be 100% sure its my rear differential?

sburkett

Jack the car up. If there is nothing else obviously broken, take the center section out and see if there are chunks missing.

If open rears are going for $150, I'll come to where you are sell as many as anyone wants and retire. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for one. You can get a complete disc-to-disc LSD rear end for $100-150 from any junkyard in St. Louis.

It is at most a one hour job to remove the center section, and at most two to reinstall it.

You will need a 12 mm wrench, a 14mm wrench, and a big screwdriver or assistant to hold the brake down while you break the driveshaft nuts loose. Oh, and a hammer to knock the axles out of the housing. It's really not that hard, a haynes manual wouldn't hurt though.

Last thing - make sure your center section matches your car. 84-85 are not compatible with earlier models.

Have fun!
Steven

peejay

It is. Nothin' else it can be, from your descriptions.

kenn_chan

That clunking nose ya hear is a gear tooth or two thats mangled, swaaping the entire *** end is the easiest, swappin the center section is next , and actually changeing the ring, and pinion, or the spider gears are the most time consumeing and difficult, requires a precision dial gauge and mag mount, not to mention a lot of experience. do the whole thing, its easier, and quicker.

also I love that new word PJ " brokified" i wil keep that one for use later!

cheers

twigg

what do you guys think this would run me, so i dont go blindly into the shops and get raped. I wanna go ahead and see who will just knock it all out for me and replace it all. Get a LSD rear end going. Hopefully i can with my budget of 600~900

Thanks,
as allways you guys are super helpfull!

Rotor13B

If your gonna spend that much you should do the whole SE swap. Find a pull-n-save, pickapart, whatever it's called in your part of the country and get it yourself. You could probably walk away with a lsd for 50 bucks. That's how I got my lsd unit.

TurboFB

What made you wan't to burnout anyway? Proove your friends how long you can hold it? Bullshit. Don't do gay crap with stock rear ends...especially knowing the damn thing is so old...

Brianhsval

Rearend like they told you. $100 - $200 in the bone yard. You broke it now it's time to spend about 3hrs and fix it yourself. Save $300 and get dirty. That way next time you want to burn out you may think twice about the abuse you put your rearend through.

DAVID GRIMES

So don't do that ANY MORE

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

do this go and buy a GSL-SE rear end and your problems will go away..hopefully..but then again you will prolly do more burnouts with SE rear...you can find one in good order for about $200 minus labor...find a junker and you can get for around $75, which is how much i paid for each of my 5 SE rears all have been rebuilt and shot-peened. Have Fun