1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Ok I looked at it today and here is the good and the bad

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Old 03-04-05, 11:46 AM
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Ok I looked at a 85 gsl and here is the good and the bad

Started up well, took 2 tries but that’s not bad since it has been sitting for a month and it was most likely flooded like every other rx7 in the world. There was very little white smoke out of the exhaust so nothing to worry about. After turning off the chock it held a perfect idle that made the engine sound great. We took it up to 80mph with no hesitation and it hugged the road. I also checked the compression with a shitty *** compressor that works like this.......if it reads 60psi or more it’s good. If the engine had low compression the reader would read 33psi or so.

Now the bad
Button for rear hatch does not work.....no bigy
ac needs to be charged but leaks anyway so what’s the point.....again no biggy
power steering pump is leaking, but he said its not that bad......that is kinda a biggy
and to top it off the front main seal seems to be leaking kinda bad.

I did some research and found out that the seal near the pulleys goes bad so it could be that leaking down. Now that I can change if I have to but if it is the front main seal then I don’t know how big of a job that is. Info needed……..help……

Last edited by pinkfloyd; 03-04-05 at 12:04 PM.
Old 03-04-05, 12:22 PM
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power steering pump?
Old 03-04-05, 12:40 PM
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Dude dont just rip into the front seal. There is some voodoo when ya remove the front pully that you need to know about. Someone on here knows what im talking about. It has something to do with engine bearings getting crushed when the pulley is reinstalled. Ya should either do a search on it or wait for someone to jump on it here before ya get started.
Who needs a\c anyway.... dead weight. Where did ya find a gsl with power steering?
Good luck with everytrhing. Cant wait to get mine started again. Waiting on parts...
Old 03-04-05, 02:57 PM
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I am no expert on gsl's and power steering but this one has it.

And I did search, that’s how I found out that it could be the pulley leaking. I cold not find much info on replacing the front seal though. I am almost positive that it’s the main seal and not the pulley so info on replacing the front seal would be most appreciated.

I am hoping that it is not a bad leak in the main seal and I can just add a sealant formula to the oil and hope that either seals all the way or a little to last throughout the summer till I get another 12a motor rebuilt for it. I guess I will just have to keep a box of oil in the car along with other things.
Old 03-04-05, 03:29 PM
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Keeping a couple extra bottles of oil in the car is ALWAYS a good plan, when it comes to rotaries. They do use oil by design.
As for the power steering thing, the car is 20 years old, anyone could have changed the gearbox to add power steering, if it was not originally installed. Didn't the GSL-SE come with power steering standard?
Old 03-04-05, 03:49 PM
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iirc power steering was an option also for the gsl.
Old 03-04-05, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotor13B
iirc power steering was an option also for the gsl.
I think you are correct, at least for 84-85.
I would only be suspicious of an 83 or earlier car w/PS, even though the parts can be interchanged. If all needed parts are changed, a swap to PS is as good as factory installed. I don't know if the PS linkage has any differences on these cars, but most other makes have at least one item that is different when PS is involved.
Old 03-04-05, 05:31 PM
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I have an '85 GSL (non-se) that was originally registered in California. It came with power steering and "limited Edition" badges on the B-pillars, so this was an option on the GSL as well as on the GSL-SE.

BTW, this "Limited Edition" is only different from other series-3 GSLs in that it came with power steering. It is not same option package that came on earlier-model Limited Edition first gens, ie: no 14" rims and such.
Old 03-04-05, 05:35 PM
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thansk for clearing that up.......I finlay learned something today after a full day of school
Old 03-05-05, 02:41 PM
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ps is just one more thing to go wrong
Old 03-05-05, 05:26 PM
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Wink What he wanted to say was this

Originally Posted by eViLjAy
Dude dont just rip into the front seal. There is some voodoo when ya remove the front pully that you need to know about. Someone on here knows what im talking about. It has something to do with engine bearings getting crushed when the pulley is reinstalled. Ya should either do a search on it or wait for someone to jump on it here before ya get started.
Who needs a\c anyway.... dead weight. Where did ya find a gsl with power steering?
Good luck with everytrhing. Cant wait to get mine started again. Waiting on parts...

in order to pull the front pulley, and cover, you need to push the clutch in, and then hold it in place with a 2 x 4 braced between the seat, and the clutch pedal. the force of the clutch will keep the front thrust bearings, and spacers in place while you work on the front seal. if you don't do this there is a 95% chances that the bearings will slip down, and get pinched when you put the front pulley back on.

If you have an automatic, it gets a little harder, try this take the inspection cover off of the auto tranny, and stick a prybar between the bell houseing and the rear of the flex plate. pull the prybar in such a fashion that it applies pressure against the flywheel pushing it forward (flywheel is forced in the direction of the front of the car) this will require figureing a way to maintain pressure while you pull front pulley, remove seal, and reinstall seal. don't try to have a friend hold it, he will get tired and slip sooner or later (probably sooner)

The premise behind this is that it puts pressure from the rear of the motor stack, towards the front, therebye holding the pressure against the bearing stack and not allowing it to slip down

Think of it like this, you take a big mac, turn it on its side, if you put pressure on it from the rear, the pickels won't fall out, if you don't, on the floor they go!

Ken
Old 03-05-05, 06:17 PM
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sweet that helps a lot and i love the analogy.

Do i have to drop the oil pan or pull the motor at all to replace the front main seal.
Old 03-05-05, 07:08 PM
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im not understanding how applying the clutch in the back is going to prevent the washers from falling out. I'm thinking the pressure is being applied backwards, but the other way around wouldn't be possible. Hmmm.

Last edited by GavinJuice; 03-05-05 at 07:12 PM.
Old 03-05-05, 08:54 PM
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when you push in the clutch, the throwout bearing pushes against the pressure plate TOWARD the flywheel on the fingers of the pressure plate. This force, in turn puts force on the flywheel and e-shaft, the whole stack.
Old 03-05-05, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by pinkfloyd
sweet that helps a lot and i love the analogy.

Do i have to drop the oil pan or pull the motor at all to replace the front main seal.
(first let me clarify that you are speaking of the front cover oil seal yes?) if so than its fairly easy but time consumeing. follow my prior posted stuff about clutch and then read below

oil pan, No, but depending upon your skill level you might have to remove the radiator, and slide the ac core forward, just depends upon how much room you personally need to do the work, I take the radiator out, just to avoid damageing the fins, but other than that I am good to go.

after you get the radiator out of the way (also helps to take the hood off for me) (long legs but short arms {my DNA is all F(#*&$(ed up}) remove all accesory belts, mark and remove dizzy, place jack under oil pan apply light pressure, remove front motor mount plate (from front cover) remove hoses for OMP (oil injection metering pump), remove large front bolt on pulley, remove pulley and key, remove front cover, R/R front il seal.

now very important grassahoppa: claen the living dog snot out of the mating surfaces for the front cover, lay a thin bead of orange RTV on all of the engine block to cover, and oil pan to cover surfaces, set to side and let it form a skin, for about 15 minutes while you thouroghly clean the opposite mateing surfaces. then reassemble in reverse. I think that 80 ftlbs is correct torque but double check with the manual.

kenn
Old 03-05-05, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lovintha7
when you push in the clutch, the throwout bearing pushes against the pressure plate TOWARD the flywheel on the fingers of the pressure plate. This force, in turn puts force on the flywheel and e-shaft, the whole stack.

yeah what he said
Old 03-07-05, 04:25 PM
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Ok i hate to bring back a dead thread but I went looking around the web to find out how much the front main seal cost. I found what I thought was the part on mazdatrix but im not sure. I think its this part # 10-6050-0820 of of this page/site http://www.mazdatrix.com/b2.htm

If this is not it please tell which part # it is and where i can get it. I will keep searching the web now.
Old 03-08-05, 03:00 PM
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so where can i get a front main seal
Old 03-08-05, 03:13 PM
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That should be the one. You can also get it through the dealer, Atkins, or VB, I believe. The dealer may be the cheapest and fastest route as you won't have to deal with shipping charges and such for just one little part. I think kenn_chan has you covered on what you need to do to get the cover off.

Although, you don't need to drop the oil pan, you do need to remove atleast the oil pan bolts on the front section of the engine as they go into the front cover. There is also a little o-ring that goes between the front cover and the engine. You may want to replace that while you are at it. Keep the parts clean and use either RTV or a new gasket on the front cover when putting it back together.
Old 03-08-05, 03:53 PM
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thanks a lot everyone and i will let you know how it goes in the next new months




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