OK, i got my wideband o2 of ebay??? pictures
07-04-04, 03:46 PM
#1
OK, i got my wideband o2 of ebay??? pictures
I got a wideband O2, now what ratio should I shoot for? Isn't 14.7 is supposed to be the best for pisstons but what is the 12a ratio? Next weekend I will weld in the bung and begin the fun.
Info can be found here
Your going to notice that its little display cover is broken but I made a new one.
My repaired shot plexiglass, window tint, and carbon fiber sticker
Guess I could use a little darker tint.
Info can be found here
Your going to notice that its little display cover is broken but I made a new one.
My repaired shot plexiglass, window tint, and carbon fiber sticker
Guess I could use a little darker tint.
07-04-04, 04:06 PM
#3
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I remember there was a kit available for much less than that... I believe the meter was a kit that you assmelbe yourself and the O2 sensor came from a newer LEV Honda Civic or something... Anyone know about this... I think it was an Aussie kit.
EDIT:
MMM search!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=wideband
EDIT:
MMM search!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=wideband
Last edited by Pele; 07-04-04 at 04:22 PM.
07-04-04, 04:36 PM
#4
Originally posted by inittab
From the looks of the exhaust in your avatar, you need this little device!
From the looks of the exhaust in your avatar, you need this little device!
Originally posted by Pele
I remember there was a kit available for much less than that... I believe the meter was a kit that you assmelbe yourself and the O2 sensor came from a newer LEV Honda Civic or something... Anyone know about this... I think it was an Aussie kit.
EDIT:
MMM search!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=wideband
I remember there was a kit available for much less than that... I believe the meter was a kit that you assmelbe yourself and the O2 sensor came from a newer LEV Honda Civic or something... Anyone know about this... I think it was an Aussie kit.
EDIT:
MMM search!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=wideband
And the aussie kits go for 300.00 range pretty sure on that.
07-04-04, 04:42 PM
#5
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Originally posted by seanrot
Well, I never said how much I paid for it and that thread didnt answer the question above.
And the aussie kits go for 300.00 range pretty sure on that.
Well, I never said how much I paid for it and that thread didnt answer the question above.
And the aussie kits go for 300.00 range pretty sure on that.
I really dig the features in the new version 2.0 Kit that they sell there... RPM, O2/AFR, and three misc inputs to datalog via RS232... Schweet... I also love that it's a DIY kit... I love the smell of burnt rosin flux in the morning.
Ummm.. I did notice in either the thread I linked to, or a thread that was linked to in the thread that I linked to (following me?
) that the ideal stoich ratio under heavy load is around 11.1:1 or so...EDIT: Here we go.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...t=diy+wideband
Originally posted by lesd
Here it is in a nutshell:The O2 sensor that is in most cars, like the Mazda,
is only able to read well around the 14.7 Air to Fuel ratio. Those little blinky lights that people add to the car are really only good for very very rough tuning. The RX-7 likes to run at closer to 11:1 mixture under power. The stock O2 sensor is pretty much useless for that range.
No matter what meter or gauge you read the stock o2 sensor with, it's readings are still 'wild'.
The wide band o2 meter some of us are going to make from that kit, is able to read a much wider range, and with a more stable reading that is not as suspectible to temp. variations.
The wide band o2 can therefore be used to tune a car, and better dyno shops have such instruments.
A wide band meter uses a fairly complex set of circuitry to control it, and to read it's value. You can't just screw in a wide band sensor into the stock location, and read it with a simple meter. It's the whole package that is needed. The cool thing about this 'kit' is it is very cheap. They usually cost from $700 to $2000. This kit costs about $300 or so.
The sensor is from a ultra low emissions Honda.
I hope this helps answer some questions!
-Les
Here it is in a nutshell:The O2 sensor that is in most cars, like the Mazda,
is only able to read well around the 14.7 Air to Fuel ratio. Those little blinky lights that people add to the car are really only good for very very rough tuning. The RX-7 likes to run at closer to 11:1 mixture under power. The stock O2 sensor is pretty much useless for that range.
No matter what meter or gauge you read the stock o2 sensor with, it's readings are still 'wild'.
The wide band o2 meter some of us are going to make from that kit, is able to read a much wider range, and with a more stable reading that is not as suspectible to temp. variations.
The wide band o2 can therefore be used to tune a car, and better dyno shops have such instruments.
A wide band meter uses a fairly complex set of circuitry to control it, and to read it's value. You can't just screw in a wide band sensor into the stock location, and read it with a simple meter. It's the whole package that is needed. The cool thing about this 'kit' is it is very cheap. They usually cost from $700 to $2000. This kit costs about $300 or so.
The sensor is from a ultra low emissions Honda.
I hope this helps answer some questions!
-Les
Last edited by Pele; 07-04-04 at 04:48 PM.
07-04-04, 05:02 PM
#6
kewl, thanks
So, these babies run best when they are running really rich.
BTW if i searched I wouldnt have been able to show off my handy work
Also 260.00 and I picked it up, so no shipping. Local items on the bay are nice
7.00 for a 18x24 pcs of plexiglass
So, these babies run best when they are running really rich.
BTW if i searched I wouldnt have been able to show off my handy work
Also 260.00 and I picked it up, so no shipping. Local items on the bay are nice
7.00 for a 18x24 pcs of plexiglass
Last edited by seanrot; 07-04-04 at 05:16 PM.
07-04-04, 06:11 PM
#7
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Originally posted by seanrot
kewl, thanks
So, these babies run best when they are running really rich.
BTW if i searched I wouldnt have been able to show off my handy work
Also 260.00 and I picked it up, so no shipping. Local items on the bay are nice
7.00 for a 18x24 pcs of plexiglass
kewl, thanks
So, these babies run best when they are running really rich.
BTW if i searched I wouldnt have been able to show off my handy work
Also 260.00 and I picked it up, so no shipping. Local items on the bay are nice
7.00 for a 18x24 pcs of plexiglass
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07-04-04, 06:12 PM
#9
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Originally posted by Felix Wankel
11:1 is way rich for an NA
11:1 is way rich for an NA
I'd think severe detonation and overheating... Both of which are BAD.
07-04-04, 08:16 PM
#10
Originally posted by Pele
I originally thought it was 12:1 or so... A bit richer than Boinger... Can you lean burn a rotary? What happens if you do?
I'd think severe detonation and overheating... Both of which are BAD.
I originally thought it was 12:1 or so... A bit richer than Boinger... Can you lean burn a rotary? What happens if you do?
I'd think severe detonation and overheating... Both of which are BAD.
Also, must add that the car isn't NA. She is turbo charged hense the added need of tuning aids.
I like the 12:1 number better maybe the pulling up to the gas station and pouring straight down the carb at 11.1 doesn't agree to me. But she's not my daily driver so not that worried about the pass everything on the road except a gas station fuel milage.
Sooner or later I will get all these item installed on the car. Still have alot more little gadgets to install
07-05-04, 09:55 AM
#13
Originally posted by seanrot
so 11.5 is a good number thanks DF
so 11.5 is a good number
thanks DF
I would go for 11:1 with the carb, and 11.5:1 with the Fuel injection.
On a side Note:
I don't know if you have a boost controller or not, but on a carbed turbo setup, you could only be "just right" at one boost level, since it doesn't adjust the fuel for you like EFI does, with the varying boost pressures.
Herein lies the Danger:
If you set it (fuel AFR) perfect for 12PSI, at 11:1, iand you then "switch" to hi-boost like 17PSI, you will be dangerously lean.
So, when you tune, you actually have to tune for the High boost level first (after making sure your AFR ratios are really rich at lower boost levels).
This way, you will always be running extremely rich at lower boost levels, and "just right" at higher boost levels, and not popping your engine.
This is one of the two main reasons I want to re-install my Haltech. The other is my poor *** fuel economy.
07-05-04, 10:14 AM
#14
Thats a very good point DF. My boost controller will consist of the bolt on top of the wastegate. Im going to set it at 10 PSI and leave it. With my setup I think that is safe and its a pain in the *** to change boost settings anyways. Have to jack the car up To jack the car up I have to drive it onto to some wood to give it a little lift, damn jack dont fit under the car, too low after all that rejetting the carb would be a piece of cake, lol
To jack the car up I have to drive it onto to some wood to give it a little lift, damn jack dont fit under the car, too low after all that rejetting the carb would be a piece of cake, lol
