Ok, well I spent a while swapping carbs on my 84 (I put my 83 carb on so I could put the whole engine in my 83), and after all that work, it runs just as shitty . I sat and messed with timing and adjustments for hours, and nothing . It just runs like ****. I feel like hitting it with a baseball bat and crying . First off, the two carbs were different. The 84 carb had some sort of extra silonoid on the passenger side that the 83 didnt have, and it had some sort of thing in the same side of it that looked like a spark plug type thing (best thing I can think of). The mysterious item also had two wires coming off of it, the 83 didnt have one of these either. Well I just left the wires that were supposed to go to them unhooked and it still starts and runs - barely. Im gonna sell it, IF ANYONE WOULD BUY IT, and then try and get a "real" engine for my 83, either used that still runs smooth, rebuilt, rebuild myself, or something...

~T.J.

PS - Im asking $400 for the car (84 GS, 166K miles), but money talks. Make me an offer. It has some kind of different wheels on it, kinda mesh like - but not.

 

can i get some pics?

 

Ill try as hard as I can, but I dont have a digi, Ill have to borrow one...But if I can, I'll shoot you some pics.

~T.J.

 

Dont worry man, a carb rebuild kit is only ~$30 and it is suprisingly easy to rebuild a carb. You'll get that beast up and running again.

 

It's your carb dude. shouldn't matter what block you have.

for 12a that is.

 

aaaaaaawwww dont cry!

 

Don't sell it...Certainly not for that cheap.

And shame on you, V8, for asking for pics and encouraging him to sell!!!

That part you describe is part of the emissions control. The exhaust uses the ridiculous amount of unspent fuel exhausted from our inefficient engines to make a blast-furnace in the exhaust system in an effort to further burn up the nastys, like NOx, Hydrocarbons, yadda yadda. But sometimes there is'nt enough fuel to do that, so that valve is hooked up to the computer in the car, which tells it to open or shut to change fuel mixture, based on the info obtained from the oxygen sensor.
Leaving that unhooked will not make your car run crappy.
Unless your timing is so radically fucked up, that should'nt make it run crappy either. You have to really screw it up to make it run like ****; Like have plug wires swapped, or have the crank pulley or dizzy not in right. Just adjusting it is more an "optimum performance search" thing.

You really need to better describe your problems with yer carb.
Go away. Smoke a bone or have a beer...whatever.
Then come back to it.
Tell us everything that's going on.

 

I have to say I agree with sterling , just take a break and relax and go back at it

check the connections , vacccum lines , mixture screws , etc. etc.

good luck and dont give up

 

A good long rest helps big time. Leave it for a day or two and don't think about it. go back and work on it rejuvinated and refreshed. Your temper will be gone and you'll have a clear head. That's what I do. I think we have all wanted to ditch our cars at one point or another becuase they **** us off. Just take a break you'll feel better. just my $.02 Peace

 

Lik everyone else is saying, don't give up on it. Take a break, ask a few questions, rip stuff apart, and work until you get it working. You will be glad when you do.

 

Ok, well honestly, I know that the car is only worth about $400, its in REALLY rough shape. The motor seemed strong when I drove it after I swapped carbs. It revved to 6.5K - 7K in first, second, and third nice and easy before I shifted, and revs good and strong. The part that bothers me is the idle, or lack there of. When it sits and idles when cold with the choke on, it idles around 2K RPMss and sounds good. Anything below that, it just sputters and doesnt want to run. After its warm, it will hold an idle around 800-1K RPMs, but sputtering and barly running the whole time. You give it gas and it revs nicely, but then once it comes below about 1.5K - 2K, it just starts sputtering and wanting to die again. It has at least one hole in the exhaust system that I know of, which I think has something to do with it, but I know most of the problem is carburation. I just dont know what to do. I want an easy way to get around the exhaust problem, because Im sure the cat is plugged. The guy we bought it from said that there was a hole in the "muffler" so he welded a patch on it and the car ran like **** untill it blew the patch off and it "seemed to have more power and run smoother". Well I looked at the exhaust, and he welded a patch on the cat, blocking it up again ...I was thinking I could just unbolt everything after the header and see if it helps the sputtering and what-not. When (and if) I put the engine in my 83, I plan on using the exhaust system off of that car because it only has 80K on it (as opposed to the 84's 166K), and I hope its still semi-good. Also does anyone know a way to make sure the air pump is working? Is there somehting in the manual (I dont have mine handy)? I just dont want to bolt this up and then fry another cat cause the air pump doesnt work...So, if anyone has any ideas or suggestions about what to try, hit me up.

~T.J.

 

about the cat being plugged, if you dont have to worry bout emissions, just take it off, get a bigass screwdriver or crowbar and a hammer, and beat the **** outa the inside until all the carbon pices fall out.

 

Carb rebuild easy?

Maybe, all I know is that I took apart a snow-mobiles carb in order to re-build and clean it and man oh man did I have a hard time putting it back together in the end...mind you that was almost 7 years ago now and I am only 19 =P

 

I'd say it sound like you have a big vacuum leak somewhere. Check all your vacuum lines again, I'll almost bet you money that it's getting too much air. My car used to hunt, miss, sputter, etc below about 2000 rpm, until I found 3 vacuum lines unplugged. I taped them up, then later put on some caps, fired it up, and it idled perfectly at 750RPM.

Jeff

 

RotorMotorDriver...first...don't mess with the timing....GET IT ON TIME not mess.

second...get a can of carb cleaner. While idling spray the cleaner around the base of the carb...not in it. Spray the carb body too...if the idle sound changes even slightly you have a leak.

Third learn how to rebuild the carb...the hardest (not really hard) is just taking out the floats and not dropping the needles or losing the pins holding the floats. The carb is really easy to rebuild. Make sure you use all the gaskets in the rebuild kit. I'm suspecting both carbs are bad. Also buy new sparkplugs...you'll be surprised...also check for oil in the old ones.

fourth even if the car is worth $50 ($400 your case) you have to spend some money some day to keep it running great and eventhough it will still be a $50 car you'll be happy it runs better than anything new.