Considering pulling my 13B and taking it to a guy for a rebuild.
Just how big a deal is it to pull/reinstall these things?
Love to hear feedback from those that have done it.
Thanks

 

Just label EVERYTHING with bradey markers. Bradey markers are used by electricans and can be picked up in any hardware store. They are little stickers with #'s labeled on them.

The same way you took it apart... you can put it back in the EXACT way and order, just in reverse.

For anyones first time it's HARD to remember the way everything goes back, espically if the guy takes a couple of weeks to rebuild your motor.

 

yeah, there's not a whole lot involved...

label everything, unbolt pretty much everything bolted to the engine and transmission, unbolt engine from tranny, remove engine....

install in the opposite procedure

 

yeah LABEL it!!!! i ended up waiting like 8 months and it took two weeks going through manuels and asking questions to get it back together

 

Follow the manual, its easy man. They even tell you to label stuff too .

~T.J.

 

Thanks for the encouragement, I might even begin to believe it myself..

 

You probably remember talking to me on like aim or msn or one of those, but anyway label the stuff (like they said) and if your very careful you can do it with the radiator in but i've heard it is hard when i pulled mine i had to do it fast (one day pretty much) I just ripped EVERYTHING out and pulled the engine and tranny (do'nt do that) very bad idea because now i have to find somewhere that has the oil lines from cooler to engine or use the old juncky ones (oh well) and who has the post of (brain fart) forgot his name, on how to remove the emissions junk from the carb?(i forget stuff too much stupid ADD).
Thanks and good luck be careful
Michael
Cookeville,TN

 

... and grab a Mazda Workshop Manual if you can. I find them MUCH better than Haynes and Chilton... Good luck!

 

I did mine with out a manual. It went together fairly easy, but it was because I had the new block in the basement, and I put the parts from the old motor on it, not too long after I took them off. I could see it being hard to remember with weeks in between both.

Nice thing is, most of the plugs on the motor only fit to one other plug, and some are color coded....keep as much of the emissions stuff intact as possible, and remove it as a whole unit. When removing wiring harnesses, just lay them out of the way, so that it easy to see where they were originally, don't move them all around....and yes, label where you can. Masking tape with a number on it works well. Just give the two parts that go together matching numbers. Pretty simple. Good luck.

 

That's the good part..all emissions are already gone, motor is simplified except for power steer and AC.

 

ya, i learned from doing the carb, label everything even if u dont think u need tosides that follow instructions and you'll be ok

<l><l>

 

Yeah, I remember ya, where ya been, sweetage?

 

I thought that engine was already rebuilt?

 

You can pull the motor with the radiator still in... but one false move with the engine/hoist and it's curtians, espically when you're yanking apart the motor from the tranny. The radiators only 4 bolts anyways...

 

One other suggestion is to get a cheapie digital camera and snap a LOT of pics while you're taking things apart. I did this when I changed the motor in my FC and it was really helpful in getting everything put back together right. (I still managed to get two vac lines reversed, but they were that way on the old motor, too)
Definitely pull the rad! It's not hard to get out of there and makes the job a LOT easier!
Just my $.02

 

Ah yes, let me explain.
There is about 1500 miles on the engine. Some of you may remember a thread a while back where my son 'stole' my car and proceeded to run it down a 75 foot embankment. Damage (or so I thought) was limited to the front airdam, a few scrapes, cracks & dents elsewhere. I've been working on it ever since, but noticed it was getting very hard to start. Also noticed water on the plugs. So, something happened to a water jacket seal, ''0' ring, or something 'cause I'm getting coolant in the chamber. Kevin (rotary resurrection) has taken pity upon me and will fix it IF I pull the engine and bring it to him.
BTW, his pity for me has since increased..he says strip all I can and he'll come here and do the actual 'pulling'.
What a guy.
There's as yet no way to know for sure the wreck caused this, or a seal gave out prematurely. Guess I'm getting the benefit of the doubt from Kevin. If not for him, I'd have to find another hobby for sure!

 

Wow, what a guy!! Thats impressive!! I wish people at shops around me would show that kinda dedication to customers .

Maybe something happened while your son was driving it? Was it finished being broken in when it was taken out for the joy ride? If not, if he was too hard on it, then it couldve popped something prematurely... Just a thought .

~T.J.

 

Could be any of those things, also the car had bunches of crap underneath it from the wreck..sticks, small rocks, etc. The place he went off the road is a spot where people tend to dump trash, he ran through broken cinderblocks, too. Something may have twisted or stressed the engine in such a way as to cause a leak, although I couldn't find anything visually wrong other than twisted metal from the heat shield.
Lucky there wasn't more damage.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
[B]Wow, what a guy!! Thats impressive!! I wish people at shops around me would show that kinda dedication to customers .

That's the kind of guy Kevin is, just ask his 100's of customers. He's been extremely patient, especially since this will be the 3rd rebuild on the same engine (this is the one that had the pineapple sleeve come loose & destroy the front rotor & housing).
I think he feels sorry for me and my crappy luck!

 

i did it and im useless! you can do it!

 

It's not hard - just be methodical. Its just like those little contruction toys when you were a kid... just a bit bigger.
If you can, us a engine crane on wheels - otherwise just using a fixed chain block means having to move the car around. Also... dont forget the front of the car rises heaps with no engine... so do some sums to make sure there is enhough clearance to lift the engine out. (I got this wrong using a chain block in my shed... and had to take the wheels off and leave the car on a trolley jack to get it out from under the engine!)

tips - get the large, sandwich size zip lock bags and a permanent marker, when you pull nuts, bolts, bits off, place then in a bag and label them. When a bunch of bits come of, label them (example - engine to bell housing bolts).

The stuff I found hard was getting it back in - having the clutch plate in the right spot (buy the alignment tool!) bolting clutch cover on (buy the bracket to hold the flywheel still!) and making sure there were no oil leaks.
Oh, and dont mess up the 45mm long coarse pitch thread bolt from the start with anything else!

 

yea man, i had the pleasure of doing this one month after buying my car, I was 16 at the time, and i'm an idiot. I agree with the ziplock bag thing. but the job was pretty easy, took it out and put it back in and connected everything in a matter of about 9 hours, for my first time. Its no big deal, just take your time. You'll be fine