BadAssRX-7

ok theres a guy on ebay selling a light flywheel, #1 the price is WAY to high, #2 it has 6 bolts on it instead of our 1 54mm nut. whats up with that? is he trying to rip off somebody? i emailed him but havent gotten a reply.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...582001&r=0&t=0

theNeanderthol

iTrader: (1)

You're right man That looks nothing like any rx-7 flywheel ive ever seen. And there is no way only a lightened flywheel will make a 12A magically lightning fast. I think this fool is just trying to rip someone off. I think I may e-mail him too. Tell me what he says first. Maybe it was an honest mistake. I dont want 50 rotorheads jumping on his back if it was a mistake. But I don't want some poor fool with a rex to spend $375+ on something that wont fit his car.

stinkfist

The 6 holes are what you use to mount it to the counter weight. You mount the counter weight on the e-shaft with the flywheel mounted to the counter weight. A light wheight fly wheel makes a bigger difference than you would think. acceleration through 1st and 2nd is greatly improved and when your crusing at high way speeds and punch it you can tell a differance too.
That is not a BAD price for a 9lb but its not a good one either. Assuming it's new.
That flywheel would be next to useless on the street though. It's way to light. I wouldn't put anything less than 14 lbs on the street.

Mike

DNA_Cyan

Hmmm....I just migrated over from Honda, so I dunno much about the rex7s.

But on my prelude with a 12lb FW is totally streetable, and first few gears accelerationg really improved. I did not find any particular trouble moving off from a dead stop.

On the FBs, does a lightened FW really make that big a difference in streetability?

Slightly Off-Topic: One of the first things I was thinking of doing to my FB is to change the clutch and FW. Any recommended brands? I like stiff clutches, as I used to have the ACT Xtreme PP on my prelude. (anyone notice that after getting used to stiff clutches, going back to a normal clutch totally sucks?)

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

I really like my Centerforce Dual-Friction. Very grippy even after a year of driving the **** out of it.

-brad

RXcetera

Rotary engines accelerate and decelerate with much less effort than piston equivalents. That's why they have such heavy flywheels. A 12 pound flywheel on a rotary would be a pain in the *** in stop and go driving.

If you like the feel of a heavy clutch, just replace the return spring on the clutch pedal with a stiffer one.

DNA_Cyan

cool....I did not know that...(regarding the FW Question that is)

the spring idea is pretty good too........but then the friction point will still be pretty high up.

Is there like an adjuster somewhere to change the friction point of the clucth? Some cars have it, and some cars dun.

RXcetera

You mean you want to adjust where the clutch engages relative to the pedal position? RX-7's are fully adjustable when it comes to this. You can adjust pedal height and clutch take up point.

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

you should totally expand on this.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

I knew you could adjust the relative height of the pedal with the rod that's attached to it but I thought the play of the input rod into the master cylinder was a clearance issue where you don't want actual pressure from the rod being exerted at all times. How would you adjust the slave cylinder? Redrill the holes on the trans case? I'm currently running the RB light steel wheel w/ a Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch. It's great watching the tire, paint and inspection guys killin' the engine while trying to figure out the "all or none" nature of the clutch. Myself, I just give 'er revs and go. I've never smelled clutch in the 4 years I've had the beast. I highly recommend itand the light steel flywheel. You WILL feel a difference.

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

i've heard that a light FW is great for generally flat areas, but for hilly areas, you'll wanna keep a heavier one.

RXcetera

It's all about momentum. A car with a lighter flywheel will accelerate faster but will also decelerate quicker when you get off the throttle. Cars with lighter flywheels are also harder to start from a stop because the weight of the heavier flywheel isnt there to help you along. You end up relying on slipping the clutch instead of letting the momentum of the flywheel carry you along.

I guess I should have explained the clutch pedal adjustement better. There's 2 adjustements that can be made to the pedal. Height is basicaly a screw that the pedal rests against when it isnt being used. Turning it in and out affects pedal height and free play of the rod in the master cylinder. The other adjustement is part of the rod itself. You can thread the rod up or down irrespective of pedal height. By using these 2 adjustments in conjunction, you can optain various pedal height vs clutch engagement positions. There is a point where you might have to cheat though. I've "cheated" the master cylinder by having the rod slightly "pushed in" to remove end play... as long as you're sure this hasnt had an affect on the slave cylinder, I dont see a problem with cheating.

Felix Wankel

You haven't lost any of the counterweights off the pressure plate yet? You must have pretty good luck

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

interest piqued.

counterweights, eh? would losing a counterweight make my car run a little rough throughout all rpms?

background: i've been trying to figure out why my car runs rough. got compression tested, pretty good, even compression in both rotors. one shop said my carb needs rebuild, as one rotor is recieving more fuel than the other, hayes says otherwise - it's just the tranny mount - nothing wrong w/ the carb. i remain skeptical that a new tranny mount'd smooth it out.

if it's a counterbalance on the pressure plate that's causing the vibration, i'd be thrilled to have finally figured it out. is there an easy way to inspect this?

mar3

iTrader: (8)

I'm beginning to believe that the "Centerforce-counter-weights-coming-loose" bit is an urban myth. I've had mine for over 3 yrs now with no problemos. Has anyone ever actually had a CForce clutch go like that or is it all happening to "someone I know."? Would make an interesting poll...

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

well...the new tranny mount was an amazing improvement. much smoother accel, cruise, and decel. still need to get a new shutter valve, but that can wait.

looks like i've got all my counterweights

stinkfist

I've had mine for about 8 months now. No problem. the only thing i don't like about it is the pedal feels sooo light. Sometimes it feels like something is wrong. "someone I know" said that he had one explode on the track (road course).

Who knows. I like mine.

Mike

setzep

Happened to a friends friends (sounds credable ehh) taurus sho, went to down shift and one of the straps broke on the PP and from there on out it all hell breaking loose. Of course he was racing at the time so the downshift was at a high rpm and the out of balance pressure plate broke the crank! This lead to the whole engine pretty much being junk. This is why I'm getting a ACT when it comes time to get a clutch.

rx7passion

fits turbos hmm cough cough bullshit cough cough. the flywheel looks alot like the one i bought with the 6 bolts. cant belive it doesnt even come with a counterwieght what a rip off.

stinkfist

Here is the add for that flywheel at mazcomp. Notice the price of $496.70 NOT "over $875" like he said

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...ategoryDisplay

0000-02-7213 C FLYWHEEL, CENTERFORCE ALUMINUM 1 RX-7 12A, 13B NT 1983-91 $496.70

Notes: Weighing 9 lbs., this Centerforce aluminum flywheel provides significant engine performance improvement by enabling engine rpms to reach the optimum power band more quickly. Centerforce aluminum flywheels use a steel ring gear and steel heat shield for durability. Use with automatic transmission counterweight from same model year as engine rotors to maintain engine balance. #800822


Mike

stinkfist

Actually it will fit turbo's, but you need to by a special custom clutch pp/disc made by RB for it to work. This is a common mod when using a stock first gen tranny with a T2 motor.

Mike

jrx13

iTrader: (3)

I have a aluminum flywheel on my GSLSE. I also had a light steel on my previous GSLSE. I think they are both streetable. Of course, I only drive my car to work and back not to run errands or whatever around town. But it is ok for me, I dont have to slip the clutch or anything.

pineapple racing

A few things I have run in to in the past. For people that don't have to do a lot of hill starts the alum. fly work great for our customers. Even p port street cars don't have a problem. If you have lower rear end gears it is even easier. For drag racing the heaviest seems to work best. The turbo has a larger dia. ring gear so is you do put the n/a flywheel on the original starter location is not correct. You need the n/a trans or the starter pocket can be reworked. The reworked ones except done on a mill will be noisey. Clutch net can put almost any hub into any clutch. They are a great source for doing swaps that need that odd clutch. Remember that the stock clutch system is designed to be self adjusting. If noone has monkeyed with the parts, as the clutch wears, the engaugment will be higher and higher off the floor. The adjustment advice covered the bases well for fine tuning. I would recomend not to remove all the freeplay from the push rod. If the clutch master piston cannot return far enough the compensation port might not be uncovered and the clutch cannot "release" completely. The system will hold some of the pressure. I have had clutches come into the shop missing the weights, very rare but I can remember 3 of them. IF YOU DON'T READ ANYTHING ELSE OF THIS LONG WINDED RESPONSE READ THE FOLLOWING: IN 99.99% ON ALL EXPLODED CLUTCHES I HAVE FOUND THAT THERE WAS TOO MUCH CLUTCH DEPARTURE. THIS IS THE DISTANCE THE P PLATE MOVES AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL. AT HIGH RPM, IF THE P PLATE MOVES TOO FAR IT GETS "SUCKED IN" AND BREAKS THE PIVOT POINT. THEN THE 2lb+ FACE GOES OFF CENTER AND RIPS THE CLUTCH APART. Rob

pineapple racing

Here is the method I use to adjust clutches in hi rpm applications. Get the trans to normal operating temp (10 miles)
Hold the engine to 2000rpm
Keep adding freeplay at the clutch master or make an adjustable pedal stop on the floor until when you shift normally into REV. you just feel the teeth meshing. A note 89 and later tranny have syncho rev. so this doesn't work. Then remove a little of the freeplay. The clutch will, if near new, grab close to the floor, but still give you clean shifts. Rob

madboy

My clutch engages almost as soon as I release the pedal and when cold the tranny is particulary difficult to even get in gear. Is my clutch almost dead or should I play with some of these adjustments? It doesnt seem to slip @ all in fact quite the opposite and for the most part works just fine out on the road. I have ordered a CF Dual friction as the ultimate replacement but am only collecting parts right now for future projects becasue I have the $ now. I'll prolly drive it till this clutch is done...we will see.

Thanks for your input,