oil pump key
Well that could be the main issue. There was no piston in the face that was in the car, I don't think. The horizontal hole is open. I have since replaced this with the piston from the other face. What does this do?
Thanks
Thanks
What I mean is I replaced the face with the other face. I know there was no piston. Can't wait to get off work and get this thing back on the road. Haven't had the fire department there in almost a week and the neighbors are looking bored.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
little tip
you set the key slightly with the rear bum in the air with loctite and push the gear on
better still , never undo the front nut on the oil pump , and instead remove ( and refit ) the oil pump by removing the 4 x 10 mm base bolts with a ring spanner and lifting it off with chain and drive cog
thus keeping the gear on the pump
you set the key slightly with the rear bum in the air with loctite and push the gear on
better still , never undo the front nut on the oil pump , and instead remove ( and refit ) the oil pump by removing the 4 x 10 mm base bolts with a ring spanner and lifting it off with chain and drive cog
thus keeping the gear on the pump
This is what I do every time.
Actually no I'm not. Are both of the holes for sensors? They look the same, same thread and neither have a hole to the oil passage up to the filter. Maybe I said it wrong because the pic is tipped. I am referring to the two identical holes right in the middle. On my other motor the sensor goes right under the filter.
There is really not a lot of information out there on these rear plates. It looks like I can drill and tap myself but can't find any write ups on this. I would swap them out for my other plates but these are my ported plates.
What you have there is a 17 tension bolt R5 rear iron.
To drill and tap your rear iron properly, it is best to dissassemble the engine. However if that is too much work, you can just take off the oil pan, remove the rear oil pressure reg and the banjo bolt. This allows the metal debris to be cleaned out. Then drill and tap as you normally would, and clean it all out really well.
It should look something like this when done.

By the way this was drilled and tapped, then assembled.
To drill and tap your rear iron properly, it is best to dissassemble the engine. However if that is too much work, you can just take off the oil pan, remove the rear oil pressure reg and the banjo bolt. This allows the metal debris to be cleaned out. Then drill and tap as you normally would, and clean it all out really well.
It should look something like this when done.
By the way this was drilled and tapped, then assembled.
Banjo bolt or you buy the oil filted adapter or in-between block from racing beat. Banjo bolt is proven to be the best alternative, take it from me as im mr el cheapo lol
Originally Posted by Bleeblobz
I know all about being cheap. I want to retire someday.
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