Oil pressure sending unit thread size?
#1
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Location: Georgia
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Oil pressure sending unit thread size?
I need to install a sending unit for an Autometer oil pressure gauge. The Autometer sending unit is a different thread than the stock unit. What is the thread size of the stock sending unit (oil pressure) on a 12A or does anyone know the part # of the bushing I need? Thanks
#5
The General RE
#6
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
The engine thread is 1/8" BSP. Your guage sender is 1/8 NPT. Don't try to thread it into your engine as leaks and a bunch of brass shavings will be the result. You can get a BSP to NPT adaptor.
Instead of that, why not try this? Has anyone else seen these before? Anybody use one yet? http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtnumber=11803
Instead of that, why not try this? Has anyone else seen these before? Anybody use one yet? http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtnumber=11803
#7
The General RE
1/8 BSP - 28 or ISO taper is nearly the same pitch as 1/8 NPT - 27, and it is smaller in diameter. If you put a male npt fitting into a bsp tapped hole it can fool you because it will start to thread, but you will not get complete engagement. As Jeff20B said forcing this fit will lead to failure. There are adaptors made by many companies to solve this issue. Being that you are in Georgia McMaster-Carr comes to mind. http://www.mcmaster.com PN# 4860k141 its $3.91. I used a stainless piece (SS-2-A-2RT) from http://www.swagelok.com for a bit more.
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#8
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Stainless steel seems a little hard for this application. Don't you want the threads to conform a little bit? I tried a mild steel adaptor and it leaked. I tried a cheapo brass adaptor and it cracked. Then I tried an expensive brass adaptor and it worked perfectly. What are your thoughts on this?
#10
The General RE
Brass is the standard. I haven't had any leaks yet, but you pay$ for swaglok parts to be right. I picked a stainless bit because my gauge isolator was a bit of a hanging mass and I didn't want it to break off. Yes, it would suck if the threads stripped off in the rear iron. I would probably just tap the banjo bolt next time.
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