gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

You should be able to unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the engine/tranny like in Wackey's pics. That should give you enough clearance to get the pan out. The other option is to take apart the steering. Just do the jacking technique. Wackey laid out the whole procedure a couple posts up. Good luck.

Kent

Blake

Oh, I thought that was already answered....unbolt the Idler Arm assembly, opposite the steering rack.

This is a GIF animation I did of an idler arm with bad bushings. It should help you identify the idler arm and perhaps convince you to replace those bushings as long as you're down there. They are about $6 each (2 required). In that case, you take the nut off the top idler arm assembly and pull it out, giving you access to the bushings and clearing the way for the oil pan removal. If you don't want to bother with the bushings at this time, then just unbolt the idler arm assemby from the chassis and drop the whole thing down.

boyee

iTrader: (3)

thanks man! finally a pic of the idler arm.. got it out real easy with that thing off.. now clean... rinse... have my friend supervise me re-rtving it and bolting it back on and putting on the omp gasket on correcly this time so nothing leaks anymore!! i hate oil

dreamingofRX7

After SO many people saying not to use a gasket.. I may just be convinced.. but i just grew up always using a gasket, and i know how to tighten it properly. Since the gasket costs $30 anyway..

Will the stock bolts get tight enough without a gasket? Or will they bottom out? I hear people talking about different bolts..

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Wacky, great tut! and Blake! Would definitely buy a set of your pan-stiffeners Blake!
Stu Aull
80GS with possible leak...
Alaska

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I just realized that Blake made it easy for everyone...unbolting the idler arm from the frame.

I didnt wanna disclose it to give everyone a hard time. Im evil, thats all.

kleinke

Wackyracer, your instructions did not specify to remove the Nuts from the transmission mount bolts. If the Transmission is jacked up without removing those, won't the transmission mount be torn or damaged?

Second, why do you remove the four bolts from the mount bracket instead of the two nuts from the motor mounts? Thank you.

rearviewmirror

Bump...

I need to replace my oil pan gasket, it's got a slow leak. I read this entire thread, it seems easier to remove the idler rather than jack up the engine/trans. The reason I say that is I don't see how much higher the transmission can rise, or does it have some pivot ability at the transmission mount? I think just removing one idler from the chassis might be the fastest way.

Any new thoughts or experience on this? I don't have a lift to work off of so I'll be using jack stands. I might just time this with replacing all the suspension bushing/boots anyways, in that case I guess it's a non-issue anyways.

But for discussion sake, what do you lot recommend? Raise the engine or move the steering linkage?