rotaryxperamental

I went through the FAQ, found the link to frequent oil leaks, read about the oil filler tube can leak b/c of bad seals, oddly enough, my leaks from the left rear of the block.

Any way, is the ammount it can leak substantial, I can run the car (85 GSL) for about 5-10 min and it'll seriously pool up. Would this be where the leak is or are there other places in that specific area that'll leak just as bad. I want to stop the leak bfore the 10th because I want to take it out to the strip and see what it'll do.

If it is the OFT what size are the O-rings for it.??

Thanks,
Eric

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like its coming from the oil cooler/filter pedestal. Those O-rings go hard with the heat, and start leaking. Just gotta take the filter off, replace the 4 O-rings, and toss it back on there. The nuts are a bit difficult to get to, DONT strip them. It would also be good maintenance to replace that heater hose that the oil is dripping onto.

Kentetsu

Yep, just like Darkfrost said... Had to do this with mine last year. The heater hoses under the tower are most likely shot due to the oil dripping on them, and you DO NOT want one of those to cut loose on you while you're on the road.

The nuts are kind of tough to get to. The only one that really gave me a problem is the big one on the back of the unit. You can order the o rings from the dealership for a few bucks. Check out the Factory Service Manual in the FAQ section for details on the replacement procedure. Have fun....

rotaryxperamental

Figured it out, as has been stated its coming from under the hive, and I do have a leak from the deteriorated hose. Thanks

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

I could not agree more with this, replace these right away... One of these hoses took the life of my last engine, still having troubles getting the new used engine setup, but let me tell you what a PITA for a 10 dollar hose.

rotaryxperamental

How long of a job is this?? I'm trying to aquire one of two I'm looking at so I can turn the one currently in my possesion into a parts car, that way I've got a spare engine/axle to rebuild, along with alot of spare glass and other odds and ends. I just want the leak stopped so that I can drive/race it this Fri, my F-150 sucks for doing both.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

maybe 30 minutes, theres only 2 10mm bolts, but they are hard to get too...

Kentetsu

Hmm, isn't there also a large bolt on the back (like a 17mm)? I remember I bought a few different tools trying to get that one off. Did I not need to remove it? Man, I hope I'm not that stupid....

rotaryxperamental

What are those seal called exactly?? I don't want to spend an afternoon describing the remote oil cooler of an 85 RX7 to some guy at the local parts store. We all know that the people at NAPA/Autozone/Schmucks know exactly what these cars are.

Kentetsu

I was only able to find them by going to the dealership. The guy at the counter pulled up a blow-up diagram of the oil cooler pedestal and I just pointed out the o-rings that I needed. That was over a year ago, so I don't recall the part number. Sorry. I don't think you'll have any problems with it though. Just tell them you need the two o-rings that go under the oil cooler pedestal. I think they fail enough that they will know what you mean.

Kentetsu

Check here maybe. Found this at Mazdatrix. They have the banjo sealing rings and the o-rings it appears (you will need both).

http://mazdatrix.com/b6.htm

Look about halfway down the page, after the oil cooler lines....

viper1_20012004

does any one know the size of the o-rings

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Opps thats right its 23 MM make sure you have a 23mm box end for that and make sure not to bend it, you should also get new crush washers for it,,, Sorry I forgot about that.

rotaryxperamental

bend what, the bolt??

rotaryxperamental

Are the two 10MM on the bottom of the cooler??

Mr_Rx7_Au

10mm is correct.

It's a bitch of a procedure. Mine pedastal started leaking about 4 months ago. But it wasn't the O rings but the banjo and the pedastal wasn't sitting properly. I got a whole new oil pipe, pedastal, and cooler for $100.

rotaryxperamental

You guys forgot to mention the 12MM holding it to the block.

Got it off, had to go underneath the car for one of the two 10MM.

The two O-rings came off the pedastal in about twenty pieces, they're as hard as rocks, I wonder why it was leaking

Have to go to work tomorrow and get a couple o-rings from work.

Thanks for all the help.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

ya didnt mention the 12mm bolts on the block because I didn't think you would need to remove the whole oil line there... Just make sure that it doesn't crack, my old one did and it was about 120 bucks to replace it.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

IF you have the beehive cooler, you have four O-rings to replace.

Rogue_Wulff

Yup, the second pair is between the mount and the cooler. These are accessed by removing the 3 nuts labeled "Never Remove" in the haynes manual............

rotaryxperamental

Checked the two inside and they're in great shape, still plyable.

found a couple in the machine shop at work put them in place tomorrow I'll re-assemble.

Where in the book is that stated???

Hope to have it back together by Friday so I can race.

Rogue_Wulff

Page 252 in the Haynes manual I have here, fig 13.13 (chapter 13 supplement)

rotaryxperamental

All i can say is oops.. I wonder why that is..

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

ya, I don't really know why those ones are not supposed to ever be removed??? Anyone know why? Maybe it will lead to leaks in the future?

Kentetsu

That's what I figured, so I left it alone. Never had a problem with it since. Maybe they just never go bad? LOL.