Oil Cooler Line Removal
03-30-11, 05:18 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oil Cooler Line Removal
I have a set of Racing Beat oil cooler line for my 84 GSL-SE that I want to replace but the hose going into the front cover is a bit hard to get to. Does anyone have tips on how to get to it with the engine and fan still in the car? 
03-30-11, 05:37 PM
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
From the underside is your best bet, and I seem to remember using an open-ended box-end wrench to reach it. With the engine mount so close, you'll end up having to make 1/16 rotational turns to get it tightened down.
A quick note on tightening for the SE oil cooler - and you may already know this, so ignore it if you do; the soft aluminum oil coolers that Mazda installed on the SE's are known for developing hairline cracks right where the line attaches to the cooler bungs, both feed and return. The way to get around causing the cracks is to use NEW copper crush washers (should have come with your lines and -AN fittings), and when you go to install the lines to the front cooler - only tighten them to 'snug', i.e., just beyond finger-tight. I'm serious on this.
After you refill the oil, leave the car up on stands, and with the front undertray off of the car so you can get to the oil lines at the cooler - have a sheet of cardboard or an oil drip pan handy, because this gets messy!
With the engine running, wait for it to warm up so the oil gets hot enough to trip the bypass valve and start flowing into the cooler, and it will be dripping from the line connections to the oil cooler. NOW, take your box-end wrench and tighten it *just enough* so that it stops leaking. You're done. Most people crank on those line fittings to get it tight - and in doing so, crack the aluminum bungs and the leak gets worse the more you tighten it. The purpose behind only tightening them until the leak stops is that's the point when the copper crush washers have expanded enough to stop the leak - and that's all you need.
Recheck for leaks a week later, and tighten just slightly more if still leaking, and you should be golden. Resist the urge to crank down on those fittings... HTH,
A quick note on tightening for the SE oil cooler - and you may already know this, so ignore it if you do; the soft aluminum oil coolers that Mazda installed on the SE's are known for developing hairline cracks right where the line attaches to the cooler bungs, both feed and return. The way to get around causing the cracks is to use NEW copper crush washers (should have come with your lines and -AN fittings), and when you go to install the lines to the front cooler - only tighten them to 'snug', i.e., just beyond finger-tight. I'm serious on this.
After you refill the oil, leave the car up on stands, and with the front undertray off of the car so you can get to the oil lines at the cooler - have a sheet of cardboard or an oil drip pan handy, because this gets messy!
With the engine running, wait for it to warm up so the oil gets hot enough to trip the bypass valve and start flowing into the cooler, and it will be dripping from the line connections to the oil cooler. NOW, take your box-end wrench and tighten it *just enough* so that it stops leaking. You're done. Most people crank on those line fittings to get it tight - and in doing so, crack the aluminum bungs and the leak gets worse the more you tighten it. The purpose behind only tightening them until the leak stops is that's the point when the copper crush washers have expanded enough to stop the leak - and that's all you need.
Recheck for leaks a week later, and tighten just slightly more if still leaking, and you should be golden. Resist the urge to crank down on those fittings... HTH,
03-31-11, 12:43 AM
#3
Are you replacing the stock cooler with RB steelbraided lines? if so, grab a 7/8 wrench, grind the sides to make them thin so it will grab the inlet fitting. lift the motor with a floor jack, placing a wood block between the jack and bellhousing. dont forget to remove the 4 14mm engine mount bolts. as noted above, use the 7/8 for the inlet fitting and an adjustable wrench or similar for the hose ends.
PS: be careful with steelbraided lines. they either leak at hose ends (due to improper assembly) or the lines crack over time. I seen them many times at junkyards.
PS: be careful with steelbraided lines. they either leak at hose ends (due to improper assembly) or the lines crack over time. I seen them many times at junkyards.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
