chedda_j

Just got that used FMOC and its looking prety ugly. The fins are kinda filled with dirt and the aluminum is faded and oxidized. Just wondering what i should use to clean the thing up. I was thinking some brake clean to spray out and dirty oil and some aluminized high temp paint for the rest. I want it to look prety.

Planning on making a 12" chrome chain steering wheel like the old ones that you used to see on all the camaros. you might say its rice but i like the styling. I also know thats its ilegal, that why il carry around a cover incase the popo pull me over. But back to the plan. 1/4 thick chain, 12" diameter, three spoke, and a mazda symbol in the middle. Anyways, as for making it, il just jig it around a pipe and weld it. Then send it off to the chrome shop. Just rambling.

OnlyOnThurs

WHOA!!! You gonna use a chain steering wheel...MAN i haven't seen those in a while...those were popular down here in south texas back in the mid to late 90's on all the Gold dayton wire wheeled lowriders (me being mexican american......i use to like this back in the day HA!). Hmm it should look interesting but to me i think it would look out of place on a japanese import. But hey its your car ...ahve at it...take pics!!

GavinJuice

i would worry about heat transfer if you put a couple coats of paint on. you know how vital the fmoc is to these rotary engines. i would suggest a radiator paint here http://eastwood.resultspage.com/sear...&submit=Search or maybe swing by a parts or body shop if you want a silver color.

Arockrx7

ultaSonic cleaned it the way to go.

Rogue_Wulff

Clean the FMOC good, and leave it be. There is a reason aluminum rads and oil coolers are left unpainted. Better heat transfer. Painting them will insulate them, to a certain degree.
Chrome plated steel gets bitchin hot in the sunlight. Prolly why the chain steering wheel fad died off, along with the other hazzards from them.......

7aull

iTrader: (2)

I sent my oil cooler of to an outfit that specialized in Sonic cleaning aircraft coolers. As Arockrx7 sez, this is really the ONLY way to correctly clean these. Can't chem dunk like a rad 'cause its aluminum. When I got it back I had it powdercoated gloss black. It looks like new. Rogue Wulff's warning about painting notwithstanding, all SA/FB rads were painted black from the factory, and mine seems to be just fine. NOTE: when you get the cooler back from cleaning, if you shake it around you get a sound like there is something rattling around inside (true) - it freaked me out because I thought there was contaminants in there!! Turns out to be the heater by-pass valve!! *whew*
Finally, to protect the OC and rad, I had a "bug" screen designed locally to fit right behind the grille assy. Its rock-proof ballistic nylon mesh - keeps the cooling hardware bug and chip free. Its black and totally invisible behind grille, mounting in the holes the grille uses....
(pic attached)
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

chedda_j

Thanks for the info. I fail to see a layer of paint effecting it that much but if so, il get the rad paint just to be sure. Im not aware of any sonic cleaning around here, although the rad is prety dirty, i will try and attempt to clean it with solvents and some low pressure grease removing soap and water. I straightened out the bent fins with an exacto knife and im going to be getting all new hoses made from a hydraulics shop. (thanks trochoid) After its all cleaned and ready to go il start to custom fab the mounts, although trochoid chose to use non rubberized mounts, i still believe that stiff rubber mounts will prevent any harsh movement that may cause the welds to break. I might be a welder, but i dont want to have to be repairing aluminum any time soon. Someone mentioned a rock screen, i will make sure to install one thats totally invisable outside of the car. It really is a good idea to prevent any abrasion from flying rocks.

Regarding the steering wheel, i know they havent been around for a while and i thought i would bring a little bit of history back. I dont think its just a domestic thing to do, although thats probably the only place you would have noticed them. But, the spoke rims are on many imports and to tell you the truth, i love them. That would be my choice if i could find a set for my car, deep dish tho I was maybe thinking of painting the steering wheel flat black, because really, there isnt any chrome on my car and it would just clash. Btw, i figured that i would take the stock early 80's steering wheel and just cut off the wheel section and weld on my chain. That way it remains stock, but new. Know what im sayin? Cheap and neat. Anyways.....

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I chose not to use rubber mounts because I believe it stresses the mounting tabs more when they are used. It's a moment of inertia thing.

Years ago I had a radiator rebuilt by an old guy that inherited his Dad's shop, his work was amazing. The temp difference between regular rattle can paint and radiator paint is about 10* of cooling. I hate to think how much powdercoating insulates from heat transfer, but it would be more.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

Dude nice style its old school

-=DanK=-

Not trying to threadjack, but why are chain steering wheels illegal? Ive never heard this before, and I was planning on making one for my 65 chevy... I cant think of any reason they should be illegal... Maybe someone made one poorly and the welds failed and they wrecked?

Rogue_Wulff

Chain steering wheels are a hazzard, due to the possibility of fingers getting stuck in the links. They're also a tad slick, especially if your hands are even slightly damp from rain or sweat. This is why most steering wheels have a covering of some kind over them.

Hades12

Use The stuff for Cleaning Home AC to clean the fins.

Or spend the $50 and have it ultrasonic cleaned..

chedda_j

Reasons why chain wheels are illegal:

1. Fingers getting caught in the holes
2. Slippery when wet (usually a good thing)
3. No padding incase you smash your head off of it

I dont think that welding has anything to do with it, because i have broken the welds off of a stock steering wheel. If anything, mine will be as legal as it gets, the chain holes will be the smallest i can find and the welds will be done by me, a certified welder.


Il make sure to go and check out that AC cleaning solvent.

I believe trochoid he said that paint decreases the cooling effect, although you would think it would cool better due to more surface area. Normal paint wouldnt radiate properly but a metallic based paint, like aluminized, would prolly cut down on any loses. Im saying probably 5%. I believe that the thermostat would infact just open a little sooner and stay open longer. I dont think the oil temp will change enough so that it will effect the performance at all. I think dirt being lodged between the fins would cause much more cooling damage.

Should i insulate the hoses or are they better just left alone? I was thinking steel braided.

steve84GS TII

They should be illegal for no reason!

About the black paint.....
I recently talked to a radiator guy who said that the CA health and environmental laws changed big time for him, not long ago.
He and his guys have to be checked for heavy metal posioning and other risks,on a regular basis now. Also,the black paint they used was designed to be thermally conductive and not affect the heat rejecting properties of the exchanger.It was made specifically for radiators,but that paint is no longer allowed under the new laws,so he uses regular crap black spray paint.So far,he says it seems to be OK,no complaints or problems.This is from a guy who sells and repairs radiators all day long,but still you gotta wonder.......

Also,for anyone who hears rattling inside of the oil cooler,its usually the turbulator strips moving around in the tubes.They regularly come loose, and can even end up bunched up inside one of the end tanks.Ive pulled a few out myself....

chedda_j

Thanks for the info. Gotta stay away from that stuff i guess. Il just use flat black then. Cheap and effective. And it will look sexy. I dont want to paint the fins, just the housing. Thanks for the heads up on the turbplators. I dont have any loose in mine as far as i know. Does anyone know what psi i should rate these lines at?

steve84GS TII

100psi is the typical maximum load they will see.....triple that and youll be fine.

The hose I use for my lines is 1/2" Gates B stock.....rated for 300 psi max working pressure(actual burst pressure is higher) and 500* max operating temp,well above what itll ever see.
Its very inexpensive,rubber line with internal nylon braid.....nothing fancy,no steel braid,nice and flexible.I get it from the local hydraulic/bearing shop for about 2 bucks a foot.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Junk the FB and buy an "IMPALA with hydraulics".

chedda_j

Yeah thats what i figured. They quoted me 2 bucks a foot at the hydraulics shop. I think im gonna go ahead and get stainless steel braided just because it looks nicer than rubber hoses. Maybe not but either way. I cleaned up the fittings today. Wow that dremel just rips those thick clamps off. I ONLY used like 12 blades for the 4. So it cost me like 20 cents to cut them off haha.

This guy must have had something aftermarket for hoses because they look nothing like the ones that trochoid shows on his how to. They are all only 4 inches long, the fittings that is. Trochoids are somewhere around a foot long in some places. And these arent hacked, they are of a stock look. Anyways. Il have some pictures up when i start the swap. Il keep it to this thread. if anyone else can think of something, go ahead. Im not done yet.

chedda_j

******* rights, got the hoses made today. Only 10 dollars for all the work including the clamps and the hoses. Damn cheap if you ask me. I love my hydraulic shop.