I can't believe it. I was about to post something about "Why is my throtle responce so shitty" when my Oil Idiot! light and buzzer came on. What a morron. Did I do any dammage? Runs great after adding a quart. I am doing my first oil change soon, what do you all recommend?

 

If you still use the OMP then use castrol GTX 20w50. It's a bit heavy for winter, but I ran it all year with no problems. If you premix then use any good synthetic.

You probably put some extra wear on the bearings, but I doubt it'll cause any problems with your motor.

 

I am moving to Florida at the end of the month. What is recommended oil for warm weather?

 

20w50 is the only way to go in hot weather...
Castrol GTX works good, but basically so will any high quality oil, including synthetics...

 

Here we go.

 

Howz about we don't start another flame thread about oil...both mineral and synthetic have there strong points. Besides, unless you have done an in depth study and multiple experiments on every kind of oil there is, you have no room so say one is better than the other.

 

Only use synthetic if you don't use the OMP anymore. SOME synthetics don't burn completely and will cause **** to build up in your engine. Why take the chance when castrol GTX has been run in so many rotaries and always works great.

 

amsoil, use it in the engine, with or without the omp. if you dont think it should be used with the omp, then take a spoon full of mineral oil and spoon full of synthetic, and burn it up with a torch, then come back on the forum and tell everyone that the synthetic left little/no residue and the mineral oil left more.

carl.

 

AHAHAHHA!!! I love it!

That said. I run 20w50.

 

i'm going to be switching to synthetic because i premix w/ MMO.

that said, i really need to get off my *** and find an OMP block off plate.... or make one.

 

I certainly don't want to go down this rat hole too far but.... Carl, I've got great respect for you and you've helped countless people on this board, including me. I've seen this blowtorch/oil on a spoon thing done on commercials and heard it repeated in threads like this before. Seriously, what the *&^% does that have to do with the behavior of an oil inside a rotory engine's combustion chamber? The temperature isn't the same, the pressures are completely different, a combustion chamber is extremely turbulent, etc.

Levels of credibility about oil:

Someone says,

"I've been using Brand X oil for years and my engine hasn't blown up." Good for you, but doesn't mean a thing. This is called anecdotal information and is pretty much useless.

"I use Brand X oil and when I rebuilt my engine, wear and internal buildup of crap was minimal." Interesting, but it's only a single data point for a question that needs hundreds of data points before it can be answered.

"I've rebuilt dozens of rotaries and EVERY one that ran synthetic oil had build up and more wear then the engines that ran mineral based oils." OK, now we're getting somewhere, but still not enough data.

"As an engineer with Mazda, we ran mineral vs. synthetic testing on over one hundred motor in controlled testing." Listen carefully to whatever this person says next.

Folks, it's basic scientific method. It's what led to the cure for countless diseases and put a man on the moon. Don't agree? Cool, I've got some snake oil for sale, let me tell you what great things it's done for my engine. First there's the power increase.....

-chuck-

 

lol well said chuck.

-Hutch-

 

They really are quite simple to make. took me 10 mins.

 

I agree, well said!

And for those who care: Idemitsu, Japan's top oil company who made the oil for the LeMans winning 787B, is starting to import to North America.
The first product available? Rotary SPECIFIC engine oil. It's a synthentic.
http://www.globalwebcart.com/apolloamerica/page_211.htm

These people WORK with Mazda engineers, and HAVE done tests on hundreds of engines...

 

The Idemitsu oil and premix is available from RotorSports Racing (www.rotorsportsracing.com) in NC and Rotary Performance (www.rx7.com) in Texas. It is specially formulated for the rotary by Idemitsu and Mazda. The jury of public opinion is still out on how it works in their engines, and more information will start to show up as more engines using the product are torn apart. I'm going to give it a try and trust the engineers that developed it.

 

I'm thinking of giving the Idemitsu oil a try too. But on a GSL-SE, is it necessary to remove the OMP and switch to premix? The car is stock and still has the OMP, and I'd rather not remove it if I don't have to...

 

Gentlemen- We teardown race engines with less than 30 hrs on them- as well as numerous street engines with well over 150K miles- the carbon deposits on the rotors and on the housings is due to the rotary engine's thirst for fuel! You could probably inject Vaseline through the oil injectors and not see much difference. The combustion chamber temperatures and flame propagation within the narrow ribbon of a rotary engine combustion chamber would probably burn off wheel bearing grease with ease!
The Fact is internal combustion gasoline sparked engines produce-CARBON byproducts! The primary supplier of carbon in the combustion chamber is gasoline and it has far more additives, detergents and byproducts than any synthetic engine oil. Synthetic engine oils contain less additives which are the first oxidants to deteriorate, are designed to provide superior lubrication and as a result provide superior lubrication in extreme conditions. Be careful about choosing synthetic oils- most of the major Brand name oils are not 100% fully synthetic and can claim to be synthetics with as little as 2% synthetic content. The true 100% synthetic oils cost more to produce-so expect to pay $7-$9 per QT.
Not trying to provoke a debate- but we've used synthetics for years in both race engines and streetdriven RX7's-and there are definite advantages over the more common lubricants available at discount stores.

 

So THATS why Mobile 1 is so expensive.

 

Thanks, good to hear from someone with lots of practical experience inside these engines.

 

I been running Red Line for a couple of thousand miles with no problems. I used to run syn oil years ago for thousands of miles with no problems. Im gonna switch the racecar over to syn too. BTW, Mobil 1 isint a true syn. Its made from petroleum oil base stock. Red Line and Amsoil are the only ones I know of that are made from %100 PAO stock. If your gonna pay big bux for motor oil, at least get the real thing.