I payed for mine mid December 07 and am expecting it sometime before the end of this February. Keep in mind mine was ordered before he decided to go at it full time, so the turn around time should be much less now.

 

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Whoops. This is the post I meant to quote.

 

now for a 80 what would flow better an 80 carb or a 81-85?

 

Sterling should answer this but I'll give it a try. We'll see how accurate I am later.

The '81-'85 has a fuel delivery curve that is easier to get right. The '80 takes more work. As for flow, even though the '80 has a larger primary air intake with a larger choke valve, Carl or Sterling found that the smaller '81-'85 primary flowed fine even though it is smaller.

 

They're all the same when I get done with them. Jeff's right about the air horn. The earlier models look like they should flow more than the later ones, but they are plenty big enough for what the carb body flows. There's no performance benefit from an earlier air horn or a later carb body.
There are differences, but they are all taken care of when I mod them.

 

So Sterling kind of explained but i wanted to clarify.

Basically if you live outside United states you add the core charge and Buy a carb while retaining your (mine) old one Becuase its too much to ship for the core charge to be worth anything?

Correct?

 

Yes, correct.

 

any updates

 

I recently did a cleanup of a nikki and attempted to mod the emergency return spring the way Sterling does, you know to facilitate easier air horn removal for swapping air bleeds and jets, and I couldn't quite figure it out. He has never posted instructions to mod it like he did for the accel pump and mechanical secondaries.

I'm sure I could figure it out if I invested enough time and effort into it, but it's nothing more than a stock '84-'85 Nikki that's been stripped. The extra tool it requires to remove the top is only a needle nose plier. No biggie. It's not like I'll take the top off very often. Besides, the emergency return spring trick really is a Sterling carb signature. I don't think Yaw or anyone else uses them.

It's not like I want to be told or shown how to build a Sterling carb.

 

do i buy a Sterling carb from them or do i send my old carb?

 

I'd like to get one of these when I get my SA project further along. Same question, is it worth shipping a core from Canada or not? Thanks.

George

 

No, it's more expensive to ship your carb to the border than the core charge. And don't even put a second thought into buying one. Just get your cash and send it to him, you won't regret it.

 

im going to have to get one soon

 

so what are the differences between the old sterling and the new?? I'm still running the old one and it runs great but i'm tempted to send off a spare carb to have a new sterling to try out.

 

Well how old is your old one?

My original one was one of the very first. Within the first half-dozen I'm sure. It was zinc plated instead of powdercoated and only flowed like 410cfm instead of 465cfm (a goal which they later achieved and have stuck with for all Sterlings).

He has made many improvements over the years. The latest one that my friend Marc got has something new that Sterling likes to call the "flip-o-matic" - it's a small metal piece that allows you to switch between mechanical and vacuum secondaries whenever you want. Ingenious!

OtakuRx toss up some pictures of the one you have, I'd like to see it.

Jon

 

mine is from '05, got it at Rotorfest. It runs great still, but curiosity compels me since I have 2 more sitting around.

 

looking fantastic i think i have decided the carb for my half bridge 12a..

im sure people are wondering and no one wants to give your secrects away but would it **** you off if say someone sent the carb to robert for boost preping.

dose the cores we send in have to be completly stock?
are there exceptions?
heres my carb iv jb welded the vac ports would you still accept it?