Now that's one sweet look'n Nikki
#26
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
Originally posted by jorx81@aol.com
I guess vendor ads ARE ok.
I guess vendor ads ARE ok.
You did notice that neither Sterling nor RX7CARL started this thread.
Sterling
Could you post some pics of what a "Bad" looking carb is? One you would not want to receive for work.
#27
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
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Here's the basic rule:
Oily and dirty is good. Dry and crusty is bad.
You just need to recognize the difference between dirt and corrosion. Anyone that's ever had an oil pan leak knows full well just what a great preservative oil is! Underneath the black gunk under your chassis will be super clean while a hole could be rusting on a dry spot right beside it!
If the outside of the carb has alot of dry white corrosion on the airhorn and on the boosters and venturis, it may wind up pitted when we're finished. The tops of severly weathered carbs will have pits.
If the linkages are rusted, it's because the zinc chromate has worn off/corroded. If we bead blast the rust off, they rust again (quickly).
We're working on sourcing a "safe" zinc plating chemical to treat linkage bits.
The thing is this- You could send us the nastiest piece o' **** Nikki from the bottom of the river and we can make it work.
-But the end result will look like you sent us the nastiest piece o' **** from the bottom of the river, and we made it work.
Carl and I do this as a hobby. The income generated is nill, with expected future money made to be only enough to cover our Rx-7 dream cars, or Carls racing, or whatever- at best.
We can't afford to put in extra hours to bring a crappy carby up to par with a clean carb that someone else sent us.
Oily and dirty is good. Dry and crusty is bad.
You just need to recognize the difference between dirt and corrosion. Anyone that's ever had an oil pan leak knows full well just what a great preservative oil is! Underneath the black gunk under your chassis will be super clean while a hole could be rusting on a dry spot right beside it!
If the outside of the carb has alot of dry white corrosion on the airhorn and on the boosters and venturis, it may wind up pitted when we're finished. The tops of severly weathered carbs will have pits.
If the linkages are rusted, it's because the zinc chromate has worn off/corroded. If we bead blast the rust off, they rust again (quickly).
We're working on sourcing a "safe" zinc plating chemical to treat linkage bits.
The thing is this- You could send us the nastiest piece o' **** Nikki from the bottom of the river and we can make it work.
-But the end result will look like you sent us the nastiest piece o' **** from the bottom of the river, and we made it work.
Carl and I do this as a hobby. The income generated is nill, with expected future money made to be only enough to cover our Rx-7 dream cars, or Carls racing, or whatever- at best.
We can't afford to put in extra hours to bring a crappy carby up to par with a clean carb that someone else sent us.
#28
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The beauty of that piece...might be the actual look of it, but what's really cool about it, is that it is 12a specific!
I'm pretty sure the thing was conceived using knowledge of a 12a tuner no?
Good job!
I'm pretty sure the thing was conceived using knowledge of a 12a tuner no?
Good job!
#29
it WILL run
Join Date: Dec 2002
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Originally posted by Sterling
Here's the basic rule:
Oily and dirty is good. Dry and crusty is bad.
You just need to recognize the difference between dirt and corrosion. Anyone that's ever had an oil pan leak knows full well just what a great preservative oil is! Underneath the black gunk under your chassis will be super clean while a hole could be rusting on a dry spot right beside it!
If the outside of the carb has alot of dry white corrosion on the airhorn and on the boosters and venturis, it may wind up pitted when we're finished. The tops of severly weathered carbs will have pits.
If the linkages are rusted, it's because the zinc chromate has worn off/corroded. If we bead blast the rust off, they rust again (quickly).
We're working on sourcing a "safe" zinc plating chemical to treat linkage bits.
The thing is this- You could send us the nastiest piece o' **** Nikki from the bottom of the river and we can make it work.
-But the end result will look like you sent us the nastiest piece o' **** from the bottom of the river, and we made it work.
Carl and I do this as a hobby. The income generated is nill, with expected future money made to be only enough to cover our Rx-7 dream cars, or Carls racing, or whatever- at best.
We can't afford to put in extra hours to bring a crappy carby up to par with a clean carb that someone else sent us.
Here's the basic rule:
Oily and dirty is good. Dry and crusty is bad.
You just need to recognize the difference between dirt and corrosion. Anyone that's ever had an oil pan leak knows full well just what a great preservative oil is! Underneath the black gunk under your chassis will be super clean while a hole could be rusting on a dry spot right beside it!
If the outside of the carb has alot of dry white corrosion on the airhorn and on the boosters and venturis, it may wind up pitted when we're finished. The tops of severly weathered carbs will have pits.
If the linkages are rusted, it's because the zinc chromate has worn off/corroded. If we bead blast the rust off, they rust again (quickly).
We're working on sourcing a "safe" zinc plating chemical to treat linkage bits.
The thing is this- You could send us the nastiest piece o' **** Nikki from the bottom of the river and we can make it work.
-But the end result will look like you sent us the nastiest piece o' **** from the bottom of the river, and we made it work.
Carl and I do this as a hobby. The income generated is nill, with expected future money made to be only enough to cover our Rx-7 dream cars, or Carls racing, or whatever- at best.
We can't afford to put in extra hours to bring a crappy carby up to par with a clean carb that someone else sent us.
#31
Still Dreams of 3rd Gen
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I know, it was conveinently started by another Moderator.
Not to mention they advertise in their sigs.
But I'm just giving them hell.
Not to mention they advertise in their sigs.
But I'm just giving them hell.
Originally posted by Hades12
You did notice that neither Sterling nor RX7CARL started this thread.
Sterling
Could you post some pics of what a "Bad" looking carb is? One you would not want to receive for work.
You did notice that neither Sterling nor RX7CARL started this thread.
Sterling
Could you post some pics of what a "Bad" looking carb is? One you would not want to receive for work.
#32
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
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Originally posted by 1stgen4life
I wish I had $320 laying around right now. Do you have any idea of whether or not one of those carbs could pass emissions? Nice job Sterling and Carl.
I wish I had $320 laying around right now. Do you have any idea of whether or not one of those carbs could pass emissions? Nice job Sterling and Carl.
At the very least, it should be able to be tuned specifically to pass emissions testing, and then retuned for performance afterwards.
But we'll see if we can make the system work with it tuned for power.
It's a tough one. The hard part is the exhaust. It's hard to have an exhaust that will pass the Etest but be free flowing enough to deliver maximum power.
#33
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For a long time members of the forum have gained from sterlings knowledge of the Nikki carb and beggeD him to build a modified one for them.
Now Strerling and Carl are bulding them as a sideline/hobby it seems sad that some people are knocking them as 'vendors'. What they are doing is for the benefit of gen 1 owners, and filling a gap since Yaw moved over to the RX-8.
Its not disguised advertising for everyone knows about their project, its certainly not a full commercial operation.
I am confused, on one hand I intend to get a Sterling carb shortly, on the other hand the more people who know about them the longer I will have to wait!
Good luck to Carl and Sterling, can you think what the carb would cost from a fully commercial source.
Now Strerling and Carl are bulding them as a sideline/hobby it seems sad that some people are knocking them as 'vendors'. What they are doing is for the benefit of gen 1 owners, and filling a gap since Yaw moved over to the RX-8.
Its not disguised advertising for everyone knows about their project, its certainly not a full commercial operation.
I am confused, on one hand I intend to get a Sterling carb shortly, on the other hand the more people who know about them the longer I will have to wait!
Good luck to Carl and Sterling, can you think what the carb would cost from a fully commercial source.
#34
Right near Malloy
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I refuse to believe that the carb on the left and the carb on the right have anything in common...
However I have no problem with sending something that looks like the left plus $320 and receiving what's on the right...
You guys do intake manifolds to match?
I'm gonna wait till ya get the emissions formula worked out... I can supply ya with the VA state limits for the stock RX-7 if ya like.
#36
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
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I can't speak from Carls experience, but I have not done that yet.
You can contact us and we'll talk about what you want the carb to do. If you already know the bore size and other specs you would like, we can certainly do that, but I myself do not have the data or the means to test the carb for tuning.
Carl would have to flow it, and then we would would try different venturi configurations till it was what you need.
In other words, it would take time to do it right.
Of course the alternative is that you find another 13B carb to send us and we "wing it" with our best educated guess. That would be less time for us, and less money for you.
We could go on from there.
Hey folks, we're up for any thing to do with a Nikki carb. Just understand that until it's announced as a production modded Nikki, it's experimental.
We'll work with you on your custom project if you can tolerate the time it takes to iron it all out.
You can contact us and we'll talk about what you want the carb to do. If you already know the bore size and other specs you would like, we can certainly do that, but I myself do not have the data or the means to test the carb for tuning.
Carl would have to flow it, and then we would would try different venturi configurations till it was what you need.
In other words, it would take time to do it right.
Of course the alternative is that you find another 13B carb to send us and we "wing it" with our best educated guess. That would be less time for us, and less money for you.
We could go on from there.
Hey folks, we're up for any thing to do with a Nikki carb. Just understand that until it's announced as a production modded Nikki, it's experimental.
We'll work with you on your custom project if you can tolerate the time it takes to iron it all out.
#37
Airflow is my life
I havent done a Hitatchi carb, but I am interested in messing with one.
Manifolds and spacers are in the works/prototype stage. As is the "banana" carb for SP/BP engines.
As far as vendor ads. Since theres little support for us, I will cut some slack ( I wont speak for Inittab). Blatant ads cant be allowed to stay. But if CP, 1st7heaven, etc. make a little announcement whats the harm. These are all garage/cottage businesses. We cant afford a big chunk of change to spend on ads.
Manifolds and spacers are in the works/prototype stage. As is the "banana" carb for SP/BP engines.
As far as vendor ads. Since theres little support for us, I will cut some slack ( I wont speak for Inittab). Blatant ads cant be allowed to stay. But if CP, 1st7heaven, etc. make a little announcement whats the harm. These are all garage/cottage businesses. We cant afford a big chunk of change to spend on ads.
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