no spark
10-09-16, 01:48 PM
#5
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Location: Sarasota,Fl
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The tach is bouncing the fuel pump isn't making any noise. Sounds like a blown fuse somewhere. I don't know where the ignitors or resister pack are.
More help would be grateful.
Thanks
More help would be grateful.
Thanks
10-10-16, 04:16 AM
#6
Larry - Ignitors are BEHIND the big silver-ish box on the FRONT of the driver strut tower - you will see the big black cable bundle running off the Dizzy, down the side of the block and up under this box. This is the electronic ignition module, unique to 1980. You will see the pair of ignitors on the back of this box. Unless the box has completely failed, or BOTH ignitors have (which would be pretty coincidental!), your problem may be elsewhere.
If you don't have it already, getting the OE Electric manual (usually about $14 off ebay, etc.) will be a huge help. There maybe downloadable PDF versions here somewhere?
There is also a set of THREE main fuses in a brown panel, also on the driver strut tower, right by the Ignition Box. You will see the external cables of the fuses (they are wire fuses) going into the box. You may want to check them. The fact the fuel pump is also not working points to something OTHER than the ignition itself, I think, since these 2 systems are not combined directly AFAIK.
There is also an in-line FUSEABLE LINK under the steering column, in lines to the ignition switch.
Might be worth checking that as well. It is just forward of the underside of the cover over the column switches.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
If you don't have it already, getting the OE Electric manual (usually about $14 off ebay, etc.) will be a huge help. There maybe downloadable PDF versions here somewhere?
There is also a set of THREE main fuses in a brown panel, also on the driver strut tower, right by the Ignition Box. You will see the external cables of the fuses (they are wire fuses) going into the box. You may want to check them. The fact the fuel pump is also not working points to something OTHER than the ignition itself, I think, since these 2 systems are not combined directly AFAIK.
There is also an in-line FUSEABLE LINK under the steering column, in lines to the ignition switch.
Might be worth checking that as well. It is just forward of the underside of the cover over the column switches.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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10-13-16, 02:41 PM
#8
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no spark
Thanks everyone for your help.
It started yesterday and I drove it about 100 miles today with no problems. I did not do anything that I am aware of, so I don't know what the problem was. It's gone away. For now.
It started yesterday and I drove it about 100 miles today with no problems. I did not do anything that I am aware of, so I don't know what the problem was. It's gone away. For now.
10-14-16, 07:00 AM
#10
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Agree, you probably flooded it. If you start most 7s up and then shut them down before
warming up completely, they will flood when you go to restart it. Typical scenario is pulling
it out of the garage, shutting it down immediately and then trying to start it to get it back
in or go somewhere and its flooded.
warming up completely, they will flood when you go to restart it. Typical scenario is pulling
it out of the garage, shutting it down immediately and then trying to start it to get it back
in or go somewhere and its flooded.
10-18-16, 06:54 AM
#12
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Used to happen all the time when I lived up north in Pittsburgh and had the Dell on there.
Its a combination of weak ignition and rich starting/idle circuit. The cooler weather really
made it worse.
Its a combination of weak ignition and rich starting/idle circuit. The cooler weather really
made it worse.
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