no power after 8000rpm?
no power after 8000rpm?
I've got a 83 GSL with a strong 12a. I just put on a header and a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust -- everything else is stock. The car now pull hards up until 8000rpm, then its got no power and wont rev any higher. Doesn't bog out or anything like its startving for fuel, just won't rev past 8k.
I'm guessing the carb is my next limiting factor??
Just wanted to ask because I find it really odd that it pull so hard right up to 8k, then nothing...
With stock exhaust you could feel it slowly loosing power over 6500
assuming its just the carb, I guess its time to start reading up on modding the stock nikki
I'm guessing the carb is my next limiting factor??
Just wanted to ask because I find it really odd that it pull so hard right up to 8k, then nothing...
With stock exhaust you could feel it slowly loosing power over 6500assuming its just the carb, I guess its time to start reading up on modding the stock nikki
There is a redline for a reason fool. You act supprised you don't make power just by reving higher.
Not only the carb, but the ports are your limiting factor. and after that the internals of the engine.
After a certain rpm you pass the point of efficiency and will no longer make power with a stock motor,
Mod your nikki all you want, you still won't make power over 8k.
Your motor aint long for this world if you don't get a ******* clue.
Sorry if I come across as mean, but your thread makes me angry for some reason.
Good luck. You'll need it.
Not only the carb, but the ports are your limiting factor. and after that the internals of the engine.
After a certain rpm you pass the point of efficiency and will no longer make power with a stock motor,
Mod your nikki all you want, you still won't make power over 8k.
Your motor aint long for this world if you don't get a ******* clue.
Sorry if I come across as mean, but your thread makes me angry for some reason.
Good luck. You'll need it.
Last edited by Alex-7; Aug 18, 2006 at 03:10 PM.
No need to get angry. I can blow up my motor if I damn well want 
seriously tho, I had always been under the impression that redline really didn't mean much on these rotary engines.
I know I'm already past the peak HP, but it seems odd that it pulls hard and then drops off so suddenly. I'm just trying to find the balance point on either end of the spectrum where I can shift and still be well within the powerband and it feels like an extra few hundred rpm would be just about perfect. Would be interesting to see it on a dyno I guess.

seriously tho, I had always been under the impression that redline really didn't mean much on these rotary engines.
I know I'm already past the peak HP, but it seems odd that it pulls hard and then drops off so suddenly. I'm just trying to find the balance point on either end of the spectrum where I can shift and still be well within the powerband and it feels like an extra few hundred rpm would be just about perfect. Would be interesting to see it on a dyno I guess.
Originally Posted by 79rx_7
stock apex seals start to crack at 8400. there is no reason to push past 8k, there is no power, and you risk F-ing your engine.
I didn't realize that. Thanks. I'll be more careful
as for alex, you're a ******
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Originally Posted by Big_Ern
seriously tho, I had always been under the impression that redline really didn't mean much on these rotary engines.
Whoever told you that doesn't know what the hell they're talking about.
At those rpms, your apex seals are having a really tough time holding tight against the surface, which causes a decrease in compression. At this point the apex seals will also be "chattering" which will damage the surfaces that they ride against.
If you really want those kinds of rpms and power, then look into a bridgeport and all of the upgrades needed to run one... Unless of course you want to treat these engines as disposable units, in which case I'm a little pissed off too.
If you really want those kinds of rpms and power, then look into a bridgeport and all of the upgrades needed to run one... Unless of course you want to treat these engines as disposable units, in which case I'm a little pissed off too.
Originally Posted by MosesX605
There is no reason to exceed 7k RPM on a stockport motor.
Ever.
Not even once.
That buzzer is there for a reason. RESPECT IT.
Ever.
Not even once.
That buzzer is there for a reason. RESPECT IT.
none of my 7's have ever had the buzzer
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
At those rpms, your apex seals are having a really tough time holding tight against the surface, which causes a decrease in compression. At this point the apex seals will also be "chattering" which will damage the surfaces that they ride against.
If you really want those kinds of rpms and power, then look into a bridgeport and all of the upgrades needed to run one... Unless of course you want to treat these engines as disposable units, in which case I'm a little pissed off too.
If you really want those kinds of rpms and power, then look into a bridgeport and all of the upgrades needed to run one... Unless of course you want to treat these engines as disposable units, in which case I'm a little pissed off too.

I don't really want/need that kind of rpm or power (more power is always good tho, but I'm happy where it is) I just never knew I was damaging anything by revving much past 7k.
The rx7 is just my cheap(ish) daily driver. And for $100 as far as I'm concerned it is disposable
Altho I would like to keep this one as its in really good shape
If you want to run higher than 8k on a regular basis, there are some internal mods that need to be done to preserve the engine. They include, but not limited too, hardened stationary gears, 3 window bearings, oil pump upgrade, opr upgrade, bearing clearancing, rotor clearancing, carbon seals and fmoc. These mods can easily run more than a full rebuild kit and double the cost of a standard rebuild. These mods, done by a competent builder, will give you a solid engine to run 9-9.5k rpm, for a while.
What you end up with is a race prepped motor, $4k+, that will not last as long as one that has a standard rebuild and kept under 7500 rpm.
Then you need to add intake, exhaust, cooling and fuel to flow for those rpms and forget about being quiet, fuel mileage and longevity.
Btw, if you want to make friends and recieve help, drop the finger smiley.
What you end up with is a race prepped motor, $4k+, that will not last as long as one that has a standard rebuild and kept under 7500 rpm.
Then you need to add intake, exhaust, cooling and fuel to flow for those rpms and forget about being quiet, fuel mileage and longevity.
Btw, if you want to make friends and recieve help, drop the finger smiley.
Originally Posted by trochoid
If you want to run higher than 8k on a regular basis, there are some internal mods that need to be done to preserve the engine. They include, but not limited too, hardened stationary gears, 3 window bearings, oil pump upgrade, opr upgrade, bearing clearancing, rotor clearancing, carbon seals and fmoc. These mods can easily run more than a full rebuild kit and double the cost of a standard rebuild. These mods, done by a competent builder, will give you a solid engine to run 9-9.5k rpm, for a while.
What you end up with is a race prepped motor, $4k+, that will not last as long as one that has a standard rebuild and kept under 7500 rpm.
Then you need to add intake, exhaust, cooling and fuel to flow for those rpms and forget about being quiet, fuel mileage and longevity.
Btw, if you want to make friends and recieve help, drop the finger smiley.
What you end up with is a race prepped motor, $4k+, that will not last as long as one that has a standard rebuild and kept under 7500 rpm.
Then you need to add intake, exhaust, cooling and fuel to flow for those rpms and forget about being quiet, fuel mileage and longevity.
Btw, if you want to make friends and recieve help, drop the finger smiley.
oh, and thanks for the tip about the smilie. A couple 4x4 forums I usualy frequent use them in a good way when you're joking or poking fun at something etc
I read the first post within seconds of it being posted. I simply thought to myself, what a moron, and decided to not say anything.
I always running into people that *think* they know about a rotary. Talking **** about how they can turn 15K-20K. I just smile and say "How nice", while thinking "What a dumbass"....
Even my 14 year old son knows better.........
I always running into people that *think* they know about a rotary. Talking **** about how they can turn 15K-20K. I just smile and say "How nice", while thinking "What a dumbass"....
Even my 14 year old son knows better.........
Yeah, I read this and said, OMG WTF is the n00b thinking. I typed this big ol thing about how stupid it was. But then I was like you know what Ima be nice and maybe give this guy a brake. Plus I knew yall come in an rip him a new one! lol
Big Ern pioneered a great alternator upgrade not so long ago, he's not just a noob but a contributor so don't go hating.
Ern, on a stock port 8K is more than enough, but I do run mine to 8K with no problems, but I do have a Mikuni, RB exhaust, 2GCDFIS, I premix and use only Sythetic oils. I have had no problems with engines for the last 100,000 miles, just rust and a wreck.
Ern, on a stock port 8K is more than enough, but I do run mine to 8K with no problems, but I do have a Mikuni, RB exhaust, 2GCDFIS, I premix and use only Sythetic oils. I have had no problems with engines for the last 100,000 miles, just rust and a wreck.
you know ... there is a video on the net of a purple rx7 that blew up , reved really high and bang , parts flew it was cool . you could get hurt really bad ...
my buzzer dosent work either lol .
... if the car is disposable then why have it ? its worth more in parts now then it will be when you are done with it :smiley_12
my buzzer dosent work either lol .
... if the car is disposable then why have it ? its worth more in parts now then it will be when you are done with it :smiley_12
ya but its more fun to drive than part out. Any 7 owner should know that 
thanks man -- glad you enjoyed it
I may be a relative rotary newb (only had them for just over a year now) but I know my way around vehicles

Originally Posted by aussiesmg
Big Ern pioneered a great alternator upgrade not so long ago, he's not just a noob but a contributor so don't go hating.
Ern, on a stock port 8K is more than enough, but I do run mine to 8K with no problems, but I do have a Mikuni, RB exhaust, 2GCDFIS, I premix and use only Sythetic oils. I have had no problems with engines for the last 100,000 miles, just rust and a wreck.
Ern, on a stock port 8K is more than enough, but I do run mine to 8K with no problems, but I do have a Mikuni, RB exhaust, 2GCDFIS, I premix and use only Sythetic oils. I have had no problems with engines for the last 100,000 miles, just rust and a wreck.
I may be a relative rotary newb (only had them for just over a year now) but I know my way around vehicles
If you hit 8k every once in awhile when shifting out of 1st and 2nd it's not a big thing. But if you try to push it past that point then get out the parts barrel and fill it up. I don't have that problem with my Gs. It's rpm limited by the A/T trans,lol.
Originally Posted by 1stGenerationGap
lol o man A/T Trans in a 7 just look off.
I live the 5 speed!
I live the 5 speed!
What's surprising is that it is relatively quick, maybe because it still has the same power as brand new.
My daily driver is my Se but i do enjoy driving the A/T, especially in traffic.





