No oil pressure...
#1
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No oil pressure...
So I have no oil pressure according to the gauge but the oil light is not on and the motor has given no tell tail signs to no oil pressure like noises, vibrations, smoke, overheating etc........
I'm pretty sure a new oil pump was put on before it was sat for almost two years and I'm thinking the connection for the gauge is bad either at the gauge or at the pump. Basically sometimes it will move a little bit to like 8-10lb/in2 but then it goes right back to zero. You think I'm correct?
I'm thinking about deleting the gauge on the cluster and putting in my own multi-gauge below the radio(I'll be taking out the stock and replacing it with a single deck radio/cd player with a plate below it.
I'm pretty sure a new oil pump was put on before it was sat for almost two years and I'm thinking the connection for the gauge is bad either at the gauge or at the pump. Basically sometimes it will move a little bit to like 8-10lb/in2 but then it goes right back to zero. You think I'm correct?
I'm thinking about deleting the gauge on the cluster and putting in my own multi-gauge below the radio(I'll be taking out the stock and replacing it with a single deck radio/cd player with a plate below it.
#4
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RW-7 is correct. You really do need to know that you have oil pressure. I have a new sending unit, but have an issue with a new pedestal mount for the filter that gave me the port for the sending unit. I will make certain that is resolved before I get on the road again.
#5
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I know oil pressure is important. :p
I'm actually going to do new oil lines to and from the oilcooler. It's the original nylon weave stuff. I noticed a little oil at the connections and on the lines plus a slight drop in oil level after 150 miles. Nothing that adding a quart didn't fix. I'm going to do an oil change first and check the connections. If there is no benefit from that I'm going to redo the whole oil line system.
I'm actually going to do new oil lines to and from the oilcooler. It's the original nylon weave stuff. I noticed a little oil at the connections and on the lines plus a slight drop in oil level after 150 miles. Nothing that adding a quart didn't fix. I'm going to do an oil change first and check the connections. If there is no benefit from that I'm going to redo the whole oil line system.
#6
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When you redo the oil lines make sure you get the factory Mazda crush washers and when you retighten them, do not overtighten.
The connection at the oil pressure sender either gets bumped off or gets corroded. If you go with an aftermarket oil gauge don't forget you will an adapter. The adapter goes from the 1/8 BSP to the standard 1/8 NPT. You can get the adapter from Napa, part # 701-1550.
The connection at the oil pressure sender either gets bumped off or gets corroded. If you go with an aftermarket oil gauge don't forget you will an adapter. The adapter goes from the 1/8 BSP to the standard 1/8 NPT. You can get the adapter from Napa, part # 701-1550.
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#9
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Right now I'm checking the oil at every stop and I have cleaned up the little bit of oil that was there and checking that from now on. The first sign of an lights or temp or funky noise or vibration and she's parking till I can redo the oil system.
First up is brakes since these are two years old and the rear are gone. Then if the oil change tomorrow and checking of the connections doesn't help I'll redo the oil lines in the next week or so.
I'm barely driving it and I'm being nice when I do.
Brakes and oil are my top priorities... then next payday I have to get new front tires.
First up is brakes since these are two years old and the rear are gone. Then if the oil change tomorrow and checking of the connections doesn't help I'll redo the oil lines in the next week or so.
I'm barely driving it and I'm being nice when I do.
Brakes and oil are my top priorities... then next payday I have to get new front tires.
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