mjm4jc

ok, so I was trying to fix the pathetic socket/bulb for the left fender park light on my SE, and noticed it was all corroded and basically eaten away. That explained the light only working sometimes. I tried to pull out the broken pieces of the bulb socket and the two sides touched each other followed by a puff of smoke. Since then, I have no instrument lights. I took cluster out and replaced every bulb, but still not lights. Before anyone says "dimmer switch fried, well it was already jumped prior to this. All other lights work including the warning lights on bottom of cluster and all exterior lights. Any ideas?
Thanks!!!

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Are you using fuses? Check that first. If a fuse didn't pop when the draw exceeded the fuse threshold; then a wire could have melted somewhere along the way.

mjm4jc

Yes and fuses are good. I'll start checking wires.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

Same thing happened to me, short in parking light circuit killed the instrument panel lights. I think your tail lights are out too. In my case after fixing the wiring, replaced the fuse and no more issues. I would unplug the parking light, check the fuse and try again.

mjm4jc

Needing some help here. It's odd that all the other lights work except the instrument cluster. Just spent an hour looking at the wiring diagrams and am stumped. Before I take out the cluster again (which is a pain......), does anyone have any ideas of something I could check for power or ground? On the back of the cluster, there are two round plugs. Looking at the schematic only the one plug has a constant power. Can anyone verify this?
Thanks

mjm4jc

Andernamen, that's what's confusing-----I have tail lights and all lights. I checked every fuse with a test light----all good. I'm starting to think it's something in the cluster itself, but don't want to jump there.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

If only your instrument panel lights are out, then I think you are right-it's in the panel itself. I assume the bulbs are good? Taking the panel out sucks, I agree. What is strange is that the fuse should have blown before any wiring or anything else was damaged. Is it the correct amperage?

Toruki

I just recently removed my instrument cluster, I have an 83 FB GSL.

You definitely have to pull the steering wheel, but it's not a big deal if you have a puller. If not, I think you'd be able to "rent" one for free from the auto parts chain store.

Also, I found I had enough slack in the speedo cable without detaching it from the tranny. I just popped it out of a cable holder the was low in the engine compartment.

- Remove the negative battery terminal.

-Removing the wheel
Remove the vinyl cover for the center cap/horn.
Unscrew the big nut, you need a deep socket to reach it but it's not that tight (torque rating is 29 to 35 ft/lb when you are putting it back).
Use the puller. If anything like mine, it is really stuck on, so go slow and you might hear some creaking, then a pretty decent "crack" sound and you'll think you broke something, but you didn't.

- You also should remove the shroud over the multi switch, 3 screws from the sides and on underneath and it clamshells apart.

- Remove the cosmetic surround inside the cluster pod, 2 flat countersunk phillips, use a short driver.
Bottom of the shroud has 2 friction fit expanding metal clips. Be gentle and peristent and they will release.
Mark the location of the cluster against the metal frame, it will help when reinstalling

- Remove the cluster's top screws, 2 more flat headed countersunk phillips.
There are two other screws under the dash holding the cluster, but first...

- Remove the AC duct that dips under the steering column, just 1 screw and wiggle it out. Not a precision fit!

- Now you can get to the 2 lower cluster screws. Remove those. If you can do it at this point, remove the speedo cable: push it in towards the console, squeeze the white release lever and pull away from the speedo. It's a greasy thing.

- Remove the cluster. Back in the driver's seat, I put a sheet of bubble wrap over all the bits that could scratch or get scratched.
Roll the top of the cluster down/out/forward without forcing it
Remove the X05 and X06 round connectors at the back. I found this to be difficult, bad angles and weird connectors.
Grasp the circular connector with its little tail and the center lever. The connector is probably already pulled away a bit and the lock is holding it, which makes it hard to release. So grasp the connector, push it back home, squeeze the release and pull it away. Easy if it's sitting on a table, really effing annoying otherwise .

When you are reinstalling it, position the cluster partially in place, connect the electrical stuff, roll it back almost in position, but leave room so you fit your right hand in for pushing the speed back in.