82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

I tore down a nikki carb for the first time the other day and didn't realize there were brass pieces and little ***** down some of the holes and they all went on the floor when I was cleaning it.

By looking at the carb diagram in the rebuild kit I figured out where 2 of them go, but I have a third one. There are also 2 holes in my carb that aren't shown on the diagram so I figure it must go in one of them. This is an 85 nikki by the way.

Please see the attached photo of the brass piece and the cover I believe belongs to it as well as a photo of the hole I believe it goes into. Also I only found 2 little ***** so is there supposed to be a ball under this brass piece as well?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

First, congrats on your Nikki!

Now on to your question. There are only 2 *****. They are in the accel pump circuit. The large brass weight in your picture doesn't have a ball under it. You are right about the hole they go into. Go for it! Install it and you're done with that part of the build.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

thank you great and knowledgeable icculus!

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

so I put her back on today and still won't run right. I have a rock solid idle around 800 as I did before the rebuild. It will idle all day long. The second I step on the gas it makes a fuss. It wont really go at all. When I pump the gas I can see a nice stream out of both nozzles so I know I get fuel. Fuel levels are pretty close to right in the site glasses.

I have no idea where I go from here. Jetting should be fine as it is stock and I have all of the emission components removed and blocked.

Any ideas??

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Accelerator pump?

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

He has good stream from the accel pump nozzles, so probly not the accel pump.

I recently had a similar problem with a car I was reviving after it sat for many years, it was VERY weak just off idle and it ended up being a restriction in the fuel line. I had just rebuilt the carb and the floats were dead on with fuel level good when viewed through the sight glass, but a after market fuel filter the PO had installed in the supply line under the hood was restricting the flow. I diagnosed the problem by performing the fuel pressure and flow test from the fsm. I took the filter out and cured the problem.

Have you checked your ignition system? The condition of the plugs, wires and especially the vacuum advance could be part of the problem, all though I'm thinking that even if you have a weakness in the ignition system it would still "go", and not totally die. Is it stalling completely?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It has to squirt right as the throttle is opened. If there is a delay it will behave like how you described. Adjust the 7mm nut a little one way or the other and see how it does. Look down into the carb and watch for the streams of fuel from the accel nozzle. Take note how soon it squirts.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

Ya it pretty much doesnt run at all when you push on the throttle. Ill try playing with the accelerator pump adjusting screw

I put the yaw carb i just bought on and it ran like a raped ape so my ignition and fuel system seem ok

wankel=awesome

You just need to adjust the pump arm it sounds like. Just adjust the little nut until you get the soonest possible pump shot

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Now you can tear your rebuilt Nikki down and compare it to the Yaw. Find out what you did wrong. My guess is you installed the fuel jets in the wrong places. Big 160s in the primary side lead to a carb that doesn't run right.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

I wish there was an easy answer. I already double checked the jet placement to another carb I have on hand and the diagram I drew when I tore it apart. I'm pretty sure the secondary jets are 180, not 160 but the marks are so damn small I could be mis-reading them. I boiled the rebuilt carb again last night to double verify all of the passages are clear.

I'm hoping adjusting the accelerator pump will solve the issue. It would make sense that it isn't squirting soon enough from the way its reacting when I step on the accelerator.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

so I have been playing with this darn carb over the course of the last month. Pulling it apart over and over. Playing with the accelerator pump adjustment and float levels. Nothing was working. It was acting like it wasn't getting enough fuel the whole time. So I finally took the main jets out of the Yaw carb I had. They weren't the same jets but they had the same thread and went right in. I put a #57 into the primary jet spot. It ran great when I did that! I left the #160 nikki secondaries alone. The #57 primaries were way bigger than the original #92s. The car is otherwise stock so I don't know why it needed so much extra fuel but alas the car is running great!!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Probably because your primary slow air bleeds (the short brass ones) are too big. They'll all too big once you start playing around with these carbs.

The Holley 57 is about a 1.45 metric or close to a 145 stock jet. That is huge for primaries but a good bandaid when the rest of the carb isn't quite right. Oh well. A wideband is a great tuning aid.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

Bandaid is fine for a car I'm selling. I'm sure its rich but it pulls strong all the way to 7000 RPMs. Doesn't surge while cruising down the highway either like a rich weber.

Last problem is a really annoying high pitch squeal that is probably a tiny vacuum leak from some where. At first I thought is was coming from the water pump but I pulled the belt off and it still made the sound.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It might be the intake manifold gasket. I've had one of those types of leaks once. I used a piece of rubber hose as a stethoscope to find it.