82 GSL, Recently pulled the carb+intake to put in the o rings I forgot when I freeze plugged the housings, also decided to redo the carb gaskets again, as last time didnt seal and it would leak gas, if left overnight the float bowls would empty onto the plastic spacer. Redid the carb gaskets and now its flooding when I shut it down, I didnt do anything to the needles or floats I just changed the gaskets, and now its major flooding on shutdown. Also, the choke no longer effects RPMs whatsoever, despite verifying the operation of the choke flap, and it is connected to all of its associated linkages and dohickeys. I have new needles and seats, but i didnt install them as they said it would cause flooding, should I install the new needles and seats? I have new Mazda front and rear floats that should go nicely with the new needles. The needles and seats arent mazda ones though, they came in a Hygrade kit. Are they OK to use? Or should I order up new Mazda needles and seats from Atkins? Id prefer to only remove the airhorn once, I should hopefully be able to reuse the gasket?

 

The car will run, but when I shut it down it sounds like a toilet is flushing, and the secondaries fill with gas up over the throttle plates. I am getting 12v at the vent solenoid, I am thinking of trying the Vaseline trick on the old needles first, before I try to change them.

 

One thing that will cause flooding after shutdown is if you have a working float bowl vent solenoid and you cap the large nipple next to the fuel in and outs on the carburetor.

 

I still have the hose on the vent solenoid, only thing I have capped is cold start assist. It didn't do this before, and I only took the carb apart to change the gaskets. I may have gotten some microscopic dirt or something on the needles? I just put fresh oil, and my oil is full of gas from the horrendous flooding.

 

Tested the bowl vent today, it does indeed click open with 12v, that's a relief. I think I have located the source of my flooding, I relocated the charcoal canister to where the cold start assist tank originally was, and in doing so, I seem to have kinked the vacuum lines, one of which is the bowl vent, so because it's kinked, it's effectively like the FBSV is staying closed, because there's nowhere for the air to go. I need to take a tube cutter and shorten the hard lines, take away the kinks. I'll have to do a test run after fixing the vent lines to be sure, but I think I've found the culprit.

I believe I caused my own problems by moving the canister around in the engine bay for a cleaner look.
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