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Hey everyone, I recently started rebuilding my Nikki carb on my 81 rx7. When I bought the car, the carb was already off and completely disassembled. I have followed the video by RAD potential and have been trying to follow the steps mentioned in the foxed.co carb manual. I have every piece and extras from another disassembled carb I got from someone. Have I rebuilt this carb the right way? Is everything installed correctly from the pictures? I have no way to really test it as the car doesn't run yet (I need to take out the engine and clean it) so for now this is just a check from the community. I can provide more pictures of course, thank you!
The only vital thing I noticed was missing is the last bolt holding the “throttle body” (or base of the carb; I don’t remember what its proper name is) to the mid-section of the carb, the bolt right below the accelerator pump. I also noticed that a bolt holding the airhorn on top is missing. Other than that, it just depends on which vacuum lines (if any) you want to still use; I noticed you have one or two blocked off, some open and a few hooked up. There’s two sensors on either side of the middle section of the carb; I’m not sure whether anything (air, fuel, etc.) will leak out of them or not, so I’d say if you really don’t want those sensors there to make it look cleaner, look into whether you can leave them out or not. If you don’t care about its appearance, I’d day just leave them in. Otherwise, looks great!
Keep in mind though I’ve only rebuilt a few and am by no means an expert, just a hobbyist haha.
Here’s the items I noticed were missing:
Bolt for the base; missing sensor (same on the other side) Best if you could find this one to ensure you have even pressure keeping that airhorn on as tight as possible Would be best if you could find this bolt for the secondary vacuum diaphragm
What did you use for float needles and seats? Hopefully you had and reused the originals? I had horrible flooding issues with new needles sticking, and learned after throwing away my originals that all new needles are crappy and cause flooding. I did eventually make the new needles work through hours of polishing with a Q tip held in a slow speed drill and dipped in Brasso polish, and a fuel pressure regulator to reduce the force on the needles, but it was so frustrating I almost abandoned the vehicle!
The sub-zero doesn't work anyway. You can use a plug for that. Not sure of the size. There was a TSB on the sub-zero for folks to just unplug the pump in the bottle.