ok well heres the prob

I removed the rats nest, capped off everything on the carb that was to do with the rats nest. I modded the black vacuum plate that sits under the carb by pulling of the copper vacuum line stubs out and sealed the holes shut with Epoxy, I stripped down my nikki with the pics belowe off of RX7Club. but I left 3 or 4 things on. the parts I life on are circled in blue

so to get to the point the car wont start and when it dose it starts up for not even a sec then dies, theres no vacuum leaks from what I cant see.

whats going on????

 

Are you trying to remove the whole vacuum system from the car?

 

well more or less just the rats nest. but I was told that stripped down nikkis work better then stock ones. the choke I left on and wired it for a manual choke setup.

I'm folowing my friends 12A setup so it not like I'm doing it with no reff.

 

You pulled ALL of the vacuum ports out of the spacer? Well you won't be getting any vacuum advance now. I'm not sure if that would cause your no start/no run issue but it will be a huge problem when you want power over 4K RPM. Consult the www.mazspeed.com de-emission tutorial to see which port you need open. If you can't get that epoxy out then you will need a new spacer. If you can take some pictures of everything as detailed as possible and post them. Someone may be able to spot where else you went wrong.

 

I still have my stock spacer, I have a second one lying around. the spacer worked with a stock nikki but I think my stock nikki is messed because no matter what I do it wants to idea at 4K



thank for the help so far everyone and I'll post up pic asap

 

I just eliminated the whole vacuum system from my car and I covered every single airway including the one that's on the intake mainfold.

 

If you are unable to get the idle down to a respectable level, then chances are you've got a big assed vacuum leak somewhere. that's usually what it comes down to when the idle is high..

 

The vacuum advance needs to be hooked up to the second port from the front or left as your looking at the ports on the spacer. You have to run a line to the distributor and use a T fitting to split it between each vacuum pot. Check here on page 26- http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf (page # is at the bottom of each page) You also must keep the crankcase ventilation hooked up otherwise you will experience what is called lung mustard. Moisture that builds up in the oil needs to be vented and if it can't be it will condense inside the oil filler tube and rust it. This will not cost you a motor, but you don't want that rust falling into the oil. What you can do is hook up a vacuum line running from the oil vent pipe to a early 90's dodge caravan 3.0L PCV valve, then to an open nipple on the manifold. You can run it without the PCV valve but there is a small chance some moisture could be sucked back into the filler tube when the engine temps drop. If you haven't read that tutorial and just started pulling things off then read it now and go back and make sure you did everything right. And stripped Nikki's don't work better, they are just easier to work with and have less parts that can fail. You will not gain any power by stripping it. How was the car running before you stripped it down? If the car was idling correctly and driving fine then unless you pulled the carb apart and started screwing with things inside then it is nothing to do with the carb. Make sure you adjust your idle speed and mixture screws to ensure it wasn't just improperly adjusted before.

 

For adjusting the idle speed and mixture, there's a great tutorial over at www.sterlingmetalworks.com

 

So heres some pics of my nikki, I forgot to tell u guys that I have my primarys and secondarys arms weldded together so I dident have to use wire.

 

Your primaries are now permanently stuck open because you've welded them to the secondaries.
You'll need to bend some linkage.

 

thats been done, I had another guy on the local fourm (BC Rotary.com) give me his throttle plate the had it all done already

 

Get us a picture directly down the throat of the car. Use a flashlight to light up the insides. Your primaries should only be cracked a couple millimetres. If they are open wide with the engine off that is where your high idle is coming from. If they are welded to the secondaries than how do they operate at all? The secondaries twist open the opposite direction of the primaries. I know it's tight on that side but get us a good picture of how that was done as well. Also you definitly do not have your vacuum advance hooked up. You will have to replace that spacer and hook it up properly or when you finally get this car going it's going to fall flat on it's face at anything resembling an attempt at acceleration. Also looks like your shutter valve may be a little over open, as in its sitting like this "\" instead of straight up and down like this "|", so it will be causing a restriction on the rear rotor. Your best bet is to pull the manifold and remove the valve, then plug the hole.

Not to be rude, but let this be a learning experience for you. You can't just go ripping **** off your car without knowing why it's there in the first place. A little bit of research and your car would be up and running today.

Good luck

 

the high idea was with the stock 81 carb on, the pic I posted are pic of my stripped 85 nikki, the stripped nikki is the one I want to use. I did do research first, like I seid 2 of my friends have the same setup on their street port 12A's, no vacuum advance on theirs

and no your not being rude at all from my point of view

 

I just rememberd something, I had it running off and on befor I put the headers on

 

You have caped off the No.2 main air bleed.
The bent tube over the Altitude Compensator Valve.

 

...According to his photo, it is. His richer solenoid is hooked up, as well.

 

I see an exposed nipple on the back side of the throttle body for the auto-choke.

 

I see it too, nice catch. Second to last picture, right above that goopy orange mess of an ACV block off. You may want to ask your friends why they aren't running any vacuum advance. It really does need to be hooked up.

 

"Measure twice, cut once," to quote William Gobson.

 

IF (that's a big IF) he pulled it's Vacuum Switch that is OK
I had a short spring in mine that took forever to find and I would like to have given that Bas*@d to back to the PO. He probably lost the OE spring and used one he found at Kmart.


If you have a vacuum leak with two carbs and two plate
Your leak comes from the manifold or the where it mounts to the engine.

 

.

 

I see it now too, I'll have to go up to where my car is being stored and cap it off. then try starting is.



as for the #2 air bleed that shouldnt be capped, am I right????

 

The #2 air bleed is a jet pressed into the bent tube. It draws from the altitude idle compensation valve. It is an indirect line right to the idle circuit. It must be capped.
The spring & piston inside the richer solenoid must be present, or else the port to the throttle body (under the main body) needs to be plugged.

 

what happens if you dont have the vacuum advance hooked up to the 2nd one from the left??