1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

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Old 04-23-06, 11:00 PM
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New user, new car!

Hey just thought I would drop by and say hello. I've been lurking here for a little bit, and have gotten some great advice from just the search function. And I have just bought my first RX7, a 84 GLS. But it has some issues, let me explain:

1: Idle problems. Ya seems to be a common problem here. When I got it, it was at 2200rmp, and the lowest I could get was 1800. After fixxing a large vacum leak, I can get it to about 1000, but theres a new problem. First it surges rpm at that speed. What I mean is it will start at 1000 and then sputter and surge back to 1500 for a bit, then back down... rinse and repeat. It will hold a strogn idle at anythign above 1500 or so, anything less and it surges. Part of this maybe the fact that I can't get to the idle mixxture adjustment screw, its covered by a metal piece, that looks very much like a timble, that I can't seem to get off... But the surging thing is wierd, more vacum leaks? Ignition problem? (havn't recieved new parts for that yet, wednesday is the eta)

2: Tranny... err its gone. Whines in first and second gear, a far bit. The fulid was sludge, I mean sludge. Replaced it, drove around with fresh stuff and replaced that after a bit, to remove the last of the sludge and its still whining. I'm not using redline 90, but I do have a good syntetic 75w 90 that works wonders in everything else we put it into. Time for a rebuild or swap or will redline really make that much differance?

3: Suspension. Thats gone as well, actually thats the reason its parked for the nest little while. I'm thinking its to the point where its best just to replace everything, or almost any ways. These cars came with bushings right? cause they are missing on mine How hard is this to do? I havn't so muched as look at it other then to say it was shot.

4: Fuel tank vacume. I'v heard this is ushally a problem with the carbon canister. Basically drilling out a nimple which often become clogged. The only problem is, I can't find that nimple. I know its a dumb question, but where exactly am I going to have to drill?

Anyways thanks guys, I'll let you know how this goes.
Old 04-24-06, 12:57 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

Idle problems are tough. There are so many variables. My - SE is fuel injected, so I', guessing a little for some of this.

If you had 1 vacum leak, I would check for more. Surging at idle is most commonly caused by the throttle Position Sensor (TPS) being out of adustment. I believe 12a's have them too. Also common causes are dirty fuel filter or gas tank full of crap.

My tranny whines somewhat too, and there only 55,000 miles on the car. The rear end has a whine as well. Depending how bad it is, and if you have trouble shifting or something, I'm inclined to say leave that alone for the time being.

The car has tons of bushings in the suspension. You say there aren't any, but you don't say where. I can't believe there are no bushings on the whole car.

Don't know about drilling the carbon canister. On the -se it is located on the passenger side, back near the firewall. Its a black can about 4 " around and 6" high. I believe if the carbon cannister is blocked it can cause fuel delivery problems - which may be related to your idle issues.
Old 04-24-06, 03:39 AM
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Welcome to the forum!

First things first, check out the 1st GEN FAQ at the top, gives alot of advice.

I agree with Whanrow, if you have one vacuum leak most likely you have more. I had to fix one major one, bumped my mileage up from 14mpg to 16, and then i found another small one, made a major difference in idling, As long as the screws haven't been adjusted, the vacuum lines should solve the problem.

After the vacuum leaks have been fixed and your problem isn't solved. There are threads that will tell you how to properly set the air/fuel mixture, and how to set the idle screw (ideal is 750 RPM).

EDIT: I never noticed anything blocking my air/screw nor my idle screw. I had to use a very long philips screwdriver to get in there. Hopefully you're looking at the correct screw. (looking at carb from drivers side: Right screw = idle; left left = air/fuel)

I'd write more but I'm exhausted, hopefully more people will chime in.

Good luck,
-Matt

Last edited by fishbulb95; 04-24-06 at 03:42 AM.
Old 04-24-06, 07:27 AM
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Do a search on the shutter valve, odds are this is your idle problem, just block the hose at the rear of the aircleaner towards the drivers seat, I used a large bolt.

Trans are cheap if it is bad buy another rather than rebuilding, IMHO.

Bushings etc available from RESpeed a vendor on this site.

What is the fuel tank problem, what is causing you to consider this remedy?

Steve
Old 04-24-06, 09:56 AM
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The nipple that needs drilled out, is inside the small hose fitting on the charcoal canister. this is the fuel tank vent hose. It took me about 3 minutes to do this, and it solved the fuel tank vacuum/pressure problem.
Old 04-25-06, 07:17 PM
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Grrr...

Ok so the fuel tank problem has been solved.

As for the idle I'm 99%certain its not a vacuum leak. I've been over, around, under that carb with a can of wd-40, then brake-clean (not good I know but I used two can's of wd-40 and ran out) and get no responce in increased RMP's at all. Though there may be a very small leak, as it is hard to tell from the stumbling idle, but if its there it is VERY small. I'm also sure that there is not a gasket leak.

The shutter valve seems to be working ok. I first plugged the hole inside the air cleaner, which did nothing. Then crimped the line, again no effect. Out of fustration I plugged the line, and the hole, still no effect.

And to be truthfull, I'm not sure as to what to do with the TPS. I ran a few searches, yet most/all of the results relate to the GLS-SE.

What else can I tell you that will be of intrest?

The plugs which I'v pulled today, indicate that the engine is running lean. I have yet to do a fuel pressure check, but I may already know why, read below.

The idle mixture screw, come factory sealed. Which is the small metal cap I refered to in my first post. I can only assume that there shouldn't be a reason for it to go out of adjustment. Which would explain running lean, being set for 750 and the engine idleing at 2000 or so. (though to be fair the plugs weren't that bad)

It makes lots of power through the rmp curve. Well I guess not below 1500 or so, seening as I can't get it below that number....

Ignition system is fine, replaced that today, good spark, propper timing....

Guys sorry to bump this thread but I'm still at a loss.
Old 04-25-06, 10:18 PM
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You didn't mention it in your most recent post, but I take the engine is still surging in speed, up and down?

If so, I believe the TPS adjustment is the same as for the -se. One of the links in the FAQ tells you how to make a tester with 2 marker lights. I made one, and it worked perfectly, in fact I even keep it in my armrest. Failing that, (and this is a really bad way to go about it), you could just adjust the TPS and see if the idle settles down. If it makes no change, just put it back where it was.

If it isn't surging in speed, and you say you've looked till you're blue in the face for vacum leaks, I'd still be looking at fuel delivery - pump, filter, crap in gas tank, and that mixture screw.
Old 04-25-06, 11:42 PM
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No mention of the BAC. Have you taken it off and cleaned it? References to the GSL-SE are appropriate for your Canadian version.

I wouldn't count out vacuume leaks yet. I had one on my 2nd gen and could not find it, had even replaced all of the vacuume lines. I wasn't as bad as your's, but I got so tired of it I took the intake off, again, and started fromscratch. Turned out I didn't have one leak, I had 3 tiny ones that added up to one small one.

Moral of the story, replaced all of the vacuume hoses. Even if it turns out the they are not the problem, you have eliminated a potential headache down the road and a probable current cause.
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