Kansasrx7

I have found a 85 rx7 that has been sitting in a grage for six years the car is a GSL-SE and has 56,000 miles on it. he said it needs a new brake master but that is about all, the body it in great shape no rust or damage it's not seen the sun for six years. now for the price he said he would give me the poor condition blue book value for it (we know the guy) so it would be 1,300-1,800.
tell me what you think how hard is it to got a mazda stated after 6 years? And things like that. This will be my first mazda lil more power compared to my 88 honda accord lol thanks for the help

frisbeedog

I love my GSL-SE. The car is a blast to drive and is fairly easy to work on. Yours has low mileage, so if you fix the brake master and do a simple tune up you should be running smoothly. I would say go for it and have fun.

Wodihor

from my understanding... based on what i have read on the forums here for cars that have been sitting.

you will need (more than likely) to drop the gas tank and get the old gas out... change fuel filter... pull the plug and put some oil in there and hand turn the motor. repeat, repeat repeat... until you start to get compression.then do it a bit more. replace the spark plugs. and give it a shot. be sure not to flood it... use the choke... and some people use starter fluid.. not sure what kind though...

when starting on cold morning i pull the4 choke out and start to crank.. push choke back in and pull back out... this way i do not dump alot of gas in at once and flood, foul out my plugs.

Lee Lyons

ya was going to suggest dropping the tank as the gas is more than likely stale...but it thats not an option your going to have to syphon as much out as you possible can!!...then follow directions as given by Wodihor and good luck

Mazdax605

iTrader: (5)

The car he is looking at has no choke to pull.Aside from that I would also suggest changing all of the fluids in the car.You don't have to do the rear end,and tranny right away,but before you drive it I would change those fluids,and changing the coolant is a great idea as well(replace the thermostat as well).I would even flush the clutch hydraulics as well.You will already be flushing the brake system so that doesn't need to be stated.You will most likely need tires as well,because they are more than likely dry rotted,and cracked.You should really try to turn the motor over by hand before you crank it with the starter,and the oil trick in the spark plug holes is a great idea.Good luck,and keep us posted.

Chris
83 Limited "soon to be parted"
79 GS Spark yellow
74 RE/PU
92 Cummins diesel

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

As said above biggest concern is the fuel, get it out. My car has a drain plug. I would even blow out the fuel lines. Next put transmission fluid/MMO or some other similar oil in the spark plug holes and turn the motor over by hand. You may find it to be stuck. Look in the FAQ sticky for other info you may need. Then follow the fluid change out advice above.

Great find. I've been looking for one just like that. You'd better buy it at around $1500 it's a great deal.

John64

I think it would be best just to sell it to me.

Kansasrx7

UPDATE this rx7 was never taken out of family friends garage in 2005 it is still setting as it was now for 12 years it is about to finally get taken out and moved to my house, main question today is what would be the best oil/lube for trying to revive the apex seals? or after 12 year are they just dust? i will try and post pics when we pull it out of the garage for the first time after it's long sleep

Take-7

That fuel system is going to be a hassle

roondawg

iTrader: (1)

I've used atf to revive apex seals. Just take your time and turn motor by hand for a few days.

Kansasrx7

Should I try and turn the motor over the same way it normally turns? Standing at the front of the motor which way to driver or pass. Side?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i would pull the dynamic chamber off, remove the injectors and send those to www.witchhunter.com. next, remove the leading plugs and fill each housing via the leading (lower) spark plug holes with marvel mystery oil. turn the engine over by hand and make sure you get each compression chamber full oil the mmo. let it sit, rotate it by hand daily while you remove the tank for a professsional cleaning. replace the fuel filter and check the fuel pump as it may have gas in it that has turned to varnish. the pump is external is is located on the left side rear next to the unibody rail. you will want to blow the fuel lines out with compressed air (after disconnecting them from the inlet tubes on the engine).

replace all belts, hoses, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, trans oil, differential oil, vacuum lines, oil and filter, coolant, thermostat (oem mazda only), pads and rotors, inspect the calipers, lube the sliders, check the wheel bearings, inspect the parking brake cables, check all lights, check the suspension bushings, replace the tires, and inspect the weather stripping. this should give you a good start of what should be done to bring this car back to 100% operational status.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the fan will tell u which direction the engine turns.

Jhereg

iTrader: (27)

Great find, and good luck. Post pics of the progress!

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

If it were me I would just drain the gas via the drain plug in the bottom of the tank, change the fuel filter, change the engine oil and filter, put a can of sea foam in the gas tank with 5 gallons of fresh stuff, make sure engine rotates freely by hand turning it clockwise with a 19mm socket on the front pully.

If all of those essential items are done and engine spins freely, go ahead and put in a fresh battery and try to start her up. If/When you do get it started then many of the other items mentioned will have to be done to have a safe, reliable daily driver.

Also make sure your brakes aren't ceased up before taking it around the block for the first time

Take-7

i wouldn't take him down that path.... sounds like he needs to reason this one out. kansas, think about the combustion cycle on an engine (any engine) first comes air(intake), compression,then spark(spark plugs), then exhaust(exhaust manifold). so by following these around the engine, one can see clearly as to what direction this engine turns. if these terms i used cannot be understood, please learn more about engines and consult back. if you refuse to learn, please sell this car to someone who will. a rotary powered vehicle is not for people who don't want to learn, and is definitely not for people who want to take them to mechanics. i'm not trying to discourage you, but i don't want to see you get in over your head. it can happen. thanks for taking the time to ask questions though, too many people just ruin things by jumping the gun.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

yeah i thought bout explaining it that way but i figured what was easier than going by the fan.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

just tell him that the engine turns clockwise as you look at it from the front of the vehicle. doesn't get any eaiser than that.

alanbl

This is great advice from mazdaverx713b. I followed almost exactly the same procedure when I resurrected a '48 Chrysler that had been sitting outside for 20+ years. Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff and that Chrysler came to life and ran like a champ.

Kansasrx7

Tail shot in garage

Kansasrx7

Few more

Kansasrx7

Way off on miles its showing 59182

Team_Gileto

wow! great find

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

yeah but i've run across some ppl that don't know what that means.

Kansasrx7

A quick gsl-se question I believe I have both the supply and return fuel lines off engine side and in water bottles. When I turn the key on but not start the motor I assumed the fuel pump would run and prime the system and fill one of my bottles to purge the old fuel out of the line, but when I go key on engine off I hear no pump running and no fuel comes out. Is this normal or does the pump only run with the engine on