Hi I Just got a 84 GSL.

First the vacuum advance is not connected. Where does that connect to?

The transmission whines in 1st,2nd, 3rd, and 5th. Not 4th. I read here http://www.mazdatrix.com/g2.htm. That in that case the bearings are going bad. I have a another transmission ordered . Does the transmission fluid lubricate the bearings or just the gears? I was thinking about changing the fluid until i could change the transmission. But if the fluid only lubricates the gear and not the bearings then there is no point.

When the passenger door is closed. it is still "loose". It does not open back up but it is not held firmly. Can i adjust the latch? or do it have to do something else?

The previous owner gave me 2 bottles of 85w-140 GL-5 Gear oil for the differential. Is this the right fluid?

The choke was removed along with the emissions stuff . Any cold weather starting tips?

There are a few minor rust spots. the edges of the front fenders, under the hatch. Are there any hidden places i should check?

Thanks Colt

 

First off High Carb, allow me to welcome you to the site, a lot of great information is spread around in the collective braintrust!

Second, find yourself a Factory Service Manual

Third, I'd go ahead and refresh that Trans fluid....might be a hopeless cause, but what do you have to lose? A number of guys swear by a 50/50 mix of gear oil and ATF, some say for a short period....some say leave it in (I did the mix last year with no problems although I wasn't have problems before I switched) I seem to remember using 80/90 weight and if I had my FSM in front of me I'd tell you what the Mazda engineers recommended.

Can't help with the door.

Without the choke....best cold weather starting tip would be to "put you're car in storage till it's warm out again"....I live in Wisconsin (It's friggin cold) and have started/driven my car in January -5 without the wind-chill...but I have a choke...my car won't ever start without the choke.

Looking for rust? Look in the storage bins behind the seats...If you've got rust anywhere, it'll be there....and if it's there try and fix it asap!

Welcome Aboard!

 

Thanks i definitely need a FSM.
I will try changing the trans fluid hopefully it will last until i can change the transmission.

The buttons on the vent controls light up and the blower works. But the the vents never change it does not go to the defroster or the vents. Is this a common problem? Does a fuse control this or are the buttons not working? on other cars the buttons stop working despite the lights being on.

 

85 FSM is on this page. Same as 84.
http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual

Chapter 15 has info about hvac buttons and vent adjustments.
Vacuum diagram is Chapter 4A page 15.
Look under the bottom of the rubber hatch seal for more rust.

 

It doesn't get any better than 84 GSL's. Got any pics?

 

the door could be bad bushing. along with it not being aligned right

 

Tomarrow we will take some real pics

With my wife's FD and my friends FC



Class of 84



cragslist pic



Engine bay



the previous owner removed the rats nest . I will have to look over the whole diagram and figure out how to make it work now. What should i do with the line that comes off near the oil filler?

A little bit of fiddling door the door to close right. Thanks for all of the help!

I also found that the dist adj had no nut. it was just loose. i fixed that. The throttle cable had slack in it. And i found an vacuum leak. I got a lot done today. I have a lot of work to go on the engine bay wiring it is a mess!

 

The throttle cable is supposed to have some slack. Take the slack out, and you'll bend the throttle shaft when you "floor it". To properly set the cable, hold the pedal to the floor and then adjust the cable so that there is just a touch of slack.

The vacuum advance, run lines from both pods to a T fitting, then a line from that to the nipple farthest forward at the base of the carb.

Good luck.




.

 

Thanks for the help on the vacuum adv. I didn't relize how much stuff there is normally.

 

To start in cold weather without a choke: turn the key to on to start your fuel pump, pump the accelerator pedal 5-8 times, press and hold the accelerator petal about a quarter way, turn key to start.

Should fire right up but will have to hold at a highish idle for a bit.

 

Carbs are like women. Each one will require a different procedure to "turn them on", and that procedure may change from day to day, or even from hour to hour...

 

Thanks

The line that exits near oil filler is for crankcase ventilation correct? If so where is a good place to pull vacuum for a catch can?