ok so my car is going sort of i drove it around the block in first gear. but my new 6 puck cluch seems like it is always engaged, i cant really put it into gear when the motor is running. so i tried to adjust the throw and the play in the clutch pedal but it still does the same thing. any suggestions ?

now another thing that is really stupid but can a car drive and half *** work without the piolt bearing installed? i know i had 2 when i was doing all the trans work and i found another so i am just taking a wild geuss on this. i would hat eto find out this is the pilot bearings problem and have to take all that stuff out.

thanks guys

 

I had similar problem when I installed a clutchnet brand of kevlar 215mm clutch. It was a pain coz im running an old rb 215mm aluminum flywheel and the clutch is out of production. I will not disengage at all despite i've changed and adjusted everything I can think off. On the 3rd time that I dropped the tranny, I even brought the flywheel to them so they can make adjustment to the pressure plate. they said it was ok but never worked. Therefore, I returned the part and went to action clutch in East LA instead. The mgr, Alex, figured it out immediately that the thickness of the plate on the pressure plate needs to be adjusted to compensate for the depth. I installed it and worked fine with a slight adjustment on the pedal height.

However, im still in doubt it. im thinking that it can also be to the hydraulic hose which I did not replace. When u step on the clutch pedal, the pressure should go to the slave. But if the hose is old, although there is no leak, it will expand instead and can cause the slave not to expand all the way. Anyway, maybe someone can think about this for a minute and give me their opinion.

 

Naw ,man, that makes sense. new parts,,old hose..
i just went through the clutch thing too,,all new parts,
clutch,slave,hose,(ss) the only thing i rebuilt was the
clutch,master cycl.,,,maybe the disk is fliped around..
or you need to bleed the air out ?? or what,,the disk
is to thick ?? if the disk is backwards,won't it act the same ??not disengaging

 

I have spent all day bleeding the clutch and brakes on my 1980. My car had been sitting for years with only and exhaust problem. During that time a lot of air got into the brake system and apparently the clutch system.

I bled the clutch for over 2 hours and the clutch pedal got a bit stiffer but I still could not get the clutch to engage/ disengage with the engine running. I'm thinking that the slave cylinder is gone.

See if bleeding the system will help. If not then replace or rebuild the clutch cylinders one or both.

 

ill have to try and bleed it more, plus i ordered a stainless line so it will hold up to more pressure. the slave and master are almost new i put them in 6 months before i tore my 12a out.

 

after i replaced my clutch, i drove it around the block then parked it. Next day, the clutch wouldn't disengage. Dropped the tranny again, and it turns out the pilot bearing had siezed on the input shaft. Guess I didn't grease it good enough. But it worked out for the best, cause when i stopped into the Mazda dealer by me for a new one, I got to meet the good looking cashier

 

Sounds like the typical 215mm to 225mm mixup. Easy way to tell is if those fingers arent flat when its torqued down then you've got things mixed up. If you're putting a 225 pp on a 215 fly then you can get some spacers made and some new longer bolts and everything will work fine (spacer width .310"). Make sure you get that pilot bearing in this time, fill it with grease and put a new seal on it. As for hose flex - it's not an issue because the clutch doesnt reach the same pressure brakes do.

 

Yes, the slave or the master. The slaves seem to go bad first.
When I put a kit in mine 7 years ago, it took no longer than 5 minutes to bleed the clutch. I'm sure it will be the same for you if you install a kit or a rebuilt cylinder.

As yours was not used for a long time, it's not so much air in the system but the seals hardening. Change the fluid also, though.

-John.

 

Thanks FJ, I will replace the seals and give it another shot this weekend. Assuming I can find the parts locally.

-Reggie

 

ok today i did i little work on the clutch today, i bleed it for quite awhile and there was no air in the line. so my next question is are the throw out bearing arms all the same? is there a change in distance from n/a to t2 ones? it seems like the clutch slave is not pushing it out all the way. maybe i can put a bolt or rig something in between it to push it out more.

 

ok i did some god damn work on the beast, tore out the tranny clutch is fine no bent teeth or wrong parts. i have a genuine t2 clutch fork and proper seals. so i drank a sixxer and put it all back together and it still turns the wheels with the clutch disengaged.

sooo i took the clutch slave rod out and welded 1/2" worth of **** on it so it would have a longer throw, it bairly fit with it totally contracted and bolting it down but it did. so now it has more throw but is not disengaging the damn disc!!!. what the hell is going on i am at my wits end of what to do all the cluthc hydraulic parts and either new or rebuilt.

please give me some suggestions or my car will end up on ebay in a week

 

I wanna ask a really stupid question are you absolutely sure the clucth fork isnt bent?