orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I'm running the full RB kit and intend to replace it with RE-Speed bits, if all goes well, over the winter before Deals Gap. It does the job well enough for the street, but I'd like to get the car just a little lower to hug the wheels I plan to get a little better, plus being able to corner weight the car will probably help alot. I do not track my car (only because I haven't had the chance) but Deal's Gap will beat the car harder than most road courses anyway.

The biggest problems with the RB stuff are
1: Weight. The front bar itself is probably about 20-30LBS. That's alot of extra weight to be sticking in front of the steer wheels. Shifting the polar moment of the car like that does not help.

3: The ADJUSTABLE rear bar. The adjustable part is laughable, because well, good luck trying to move the sleeves without removing the bar completely. The bar itself is hard enough to mount, or at least it was for me, let alone adjust without preset adjustment points. The sliding sleeves would need to be adjusted and measured on each side, then tested, then readjusted, then tested, then rea.... well you get the idea. Alot of work for little gain, when 3 preset stiffnesses could be built right into the bar. Considering that most people actually disconnect the rear bar, it's really not useful.

2: The springs: As Kentetsu said, they do not lower the car at all compared to what your worn out stockers are sitting at right now, but actually raise the car a bit. Again not helping, since the centre of gravity is now higher. Though they are stiffer and a huge improvment on the 24 year old springs I had on previously, having no adjustment really makes improving or learning the suspension difficult. Without any adjustment your stuck with what RB was happy with way back when they designed the kit.

Djessence: not sure what info you were looking for, but my Sterling has the fast idle linkage retained. Since I drive the car from the time they clean the salt from the roads to the first snowfall of the year I figured I may need it in November. I actually haven't used it in a few months now. Leaving it on does not effect performance, just makes it easier to idle the car til shes warm.

Kentetsu

I believe the rear bar I'm using (purchased used) came from ISC Racing. It has three different mounting points for the end links, which makes things nice and simple. Unfortunately, I believe they have left the business of RX7 parts to move over to Miatas and such, which is too bad.

I didn't weigh the difference between the RB front swaybar and the Respeed tubular bar, but the difference is substantial. It also uses much higher quality end links, which allow you to "tune out" any preload on the swaybar. Very nice.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

thanks orion and ken. that's a lot of helpful information. one question tho... if i take off the back sway bar. will the car over steer or under steer more than stock. I forgot most of my suspension theory that i learned when i was a little kid playing video games.

Kentetsu

Removing the rear bar will decrease oversteer.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Most people disconnect it because it is a partial contributer to the "snap-oversteer" our cars are prone to. I personally have never experienced it, but that doesn't mean others haven't.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

I get understeer due to a lack of strength in the front end and old tires. but... i do get that snappy oversteer. which usually i can counter but yesterday... nope. haha. i believe i will go without the rear one then