Ok So one of my exhaust studs is stripped and I need to take it out. I can't get a nut on it so I can't try that 2 nuts together trick. I even tried with some pliers and I just can't turn it. I even cut the tip to get a screw driver in it. That worked but I just can't twist it do to the lack of grip. Can someone please help me. I am really stumped and need to get this off so I can put a new one in.

 

* Soak it in WD40 for a few hours and gently tap it with at hammer.
* Buy one of those frostsprays and cool it the **** down, its really works wonders on old rusty threads.
* Last resort: drill and use a screw extractor

 

Lots of P B Blaster, let it soak in, the heat the stud, stick an ice cube on it and use a GOOD set of vice grips. Or go to Sears and buy a stud extractor the fits on a 1/2" breaker bar.

Don't just wrench on the stud, apply torque to it and rap the breaker bar with a dead blow or steel hammer. If you try to unscrew the stud, it can easily twist off/snap.

 

I went through this with two broken exhaust studs in my 83 years ago.What I ended up doing was using ots or heat on the one that was broken off the longest,and a pair of vice grips.It stripped out the hole in the rotor housing,but with a helicoil,and a new exhaust stud from mazdatrix i was back in business.the other one however was a bit more of a challenge.What I ended up doing was borrowing a welder,and I welded a large nut onto the remains of the stud,and then while the weld was still hot,but cooled enough to hold I wrenched it out.It was aroyal pain,but would have probably been easier if I had the engine out of the car.After all this I needed to get a 90 degree drill chuck to drill out the stripped holes,and then tap them for the heli-coil.If you need the part number for the heli-coil I can get it for you.It wasn't an off the shelf heli-coil,but you can get them.Good luck.The welder idea worked the best for me.

Chris

 

Well I put jb weld on the stud and nut to see if that will work. If not I will try the other ideas. I have to use what I have right now.

 

If you can double nut it and it wont come out double it and heat it up with a torch till its glowing then wrench it out. Or you can cut it flush, drill it out, and helicoil a new nutplate. Make sure you put anti-seize on the threads when you install it. Also chase the threads on all the other studs with a tap and dye set and asnti-seize those too.

 

these are good ones..good luck with this..

:AA:

 

You are wasting your time with the JB. When I'm faced with little dilemas like this, it's usually a good excuse to make a trip to the tool store for a new tool to add to the collection.

If you have access to a welder, weld a nut or 2 on the end of the stud. The heat from welding will help break the corrosion bond between the steel stud and the aluminum housing. If you can't screw a nut on, take a good one to Sears/Ace Hardware and buy the correct die and clean up the buggered threads, then double nut.

Heat is a must when trying to remove these studs. None of the penetrating sprays do a very good job at breaking down the dis-similiar metal corrosion that occurs between aluminum and steel.