dumpedfb82

so I just bought a aftermarket coils its called a flamethrower its a 1.5ohm 40,000 volt output i installed both of them and a couple minutes later i have a sudden powerloss its pretty much running crappy so i think its a igniter if i installed a new one will it do it agian any tips on what i can do???????

dumpedfb82

anyone please!!!!!

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Did you pull off the plug wires and crank over to check for spark? If one isn't sparking (probably leading), then could be the ignitor. Also double check your connections. Make sure they are correct and making good contact.

lovintha7

make sure you plugged the wires in right too. The leading wire goes on the rear coil.

Kentetsu

Wow, screams for help then leaves....

Find out if you still have spark on your leading ignition, then post back. All advice above is right on the mark. Good luck.

Aviator 902S

Let me guess: The car barely starts, has way less power than normal, back-fires like a demon and bogs down on up-hill grades.

If so, I'm having the exact same problem right now and the posts above this one seem to be accurate ---- it does sound like a problem with either the leading coil or something upstream of it... like an ignitor.

Try this procedure:

1. pull one spark plug out and then remove the plug wire boots from the other three plugs. Place all four plug wires so that the end that goes onto the plugs are facing the drivers' seat and can be viewed as you crank the engine over. Place them in order so that you know which ones are firing and which ones aren't. I'd line them up in this order: L1, L2, T1 and T2.

2. Place the plug that you removed into the boot for the #1 leading wire (L1) and then crank the engine over and note whether it fires or not. Then place the plug in each of the other boots in the sequence above, cranking and checking for fire as you go. If all four plugs fire your problem is elsewhere. If the leading plugs fire but the trailing plugs don't, you have a problem with either the lead from high-tension wire from the leading coil (ie: the coil closest to the windshield), the leading coil itself, or the leading ignitor (ie: the one that is mounted onto the front of the distributor. (the trailing ignitor mounts onto the RH side of the distributor facing the alternator).

3. Next, to eliminate the high-tension lead as the culprit, simply swap the lead from the trailing coil and trailing terminal on the distributor cap to the leading coil and leading terminal on the distributor cap. Now re-check the plug for fire at all four boots in sequence. If the leading wires now receive fire the high-tension lead is the culprit. But if they don't the problem is either the leading coil or the ignitor.

4. Swap the primary wires on the leading coil onto the trailing coil, and vice-versa. Now repeat the test. If nothing changes, ie: the leading wires fail to fire but the trailing ones do fire you have a bad leading coil. But if the leading wires now fire and the trailing ones don't the problem is upstream and most likely the leading ignitor is fried.

5. If the above test reveals that the trailing wires aren't getting fire but the leading ones are, the trailing ignition is suspect, but in this case the symptoms wouldn't be as severe. You'd still have backfiring, but the car would at least idle (albiet, very roughly) and you'd have reasonable power due to the timing being at TDC rather than retarded 15 degrees.

6. If the leading plugs aren't getting fire you can still drive the car to get a replacement coil or ignitor (very cheap at wrecking yards but Gawd-awful expensive from Mazda). But to make it run at least reasonably ok simply swap the distributor ends of the high-tension leads from the coils so that the trailing coil is firing the leading plugs. This will get you around until you replace the bad component.

I can't say for certain if your new coils caused the failure, but it's a good bet that they did. If a given component draws more power than the upstream components are designed to handle the result is most often failure of the upstream components. I'd therefore shop around for better ignitors or at least a proper heat sink for them.

dumpedfb82

ok i tested for spark and there is spark on all of them.like it starts up quick but its just really shitty slow *** **** reving.

85rx7jule

what is this heat sink for the ignitor?
is it the white therma compound? Is it supposed to be on the back of the ignitors between the dizzy and the ignitor ? the back i9s grouind surface will that white stuff effect grounding sufrface and connection?
JR in CA

Kentetsu

Make sure that in the process of the upgrade, you did not switch the high tension wires around between leading/trailing. If you got it backwards it will run like crap, if at all...

dumpedfb82

what are the high tension wires

Kentetsu

Those are the sparkplug type wires that go from the coils to the distributer...

Rear coil should run to the leading ignition, and front coil is the trailing. Also, make sure that your ignitors are wired up to the correct coils. Everything else is labeled on the dizzy and the engine, as far as spark plug wire routing goes (T1 on dizzy to T1 on engine etc.).... Hope this helps..

dumpedfb82

ok i mad sure the wiring is all right i connected the big black wire from the igniters to the + side of the coils then the yellow wires from the ignitors to the - side then i connected the spark plug wires from the coils to distributor the leading to the leading side and the trailing to the trailing then the top sparkplugs are trailing and the bottom are leading i connected all of those and i have spark with all of my plugs so any suggestions????

Kentetsu

Bump....

Anybody have any ideas for this guy?

Aviator 902S

A heat sink, simply stated, is any material (usually metal) that's designed to draw heat away from a component by radiating it away via direct contact with the component. With the stock ignitors, the "heat sink" is the distributor casing itself. It's made from aluminum, which is a conductor. If the ignitor were simply hung by its wires from the side of the distributor it would overheat, but since it's screwed onto the side of the distributor most of the heat produced is absorbed by the distributor housing.

I've never used anything but the stock ignition set-up on any of my 1st gens, but it stands to reason that if your ignitors were suddenly called upon to work overtime to satisfy the needs of a more powerful component down-stream of them --- like a higher-performance set of coils for example --- They could quickly overheat unless steps were taken to dissipate this extra heat produced. At least in theory.

Aviator 902S

Speaking of which:

The LEADING coil is the one closest to the windshield. The high-tension wire from this coil must go to the center terminal on top of the distributor cap, ie: the one labelled "L".

The TRAILING coil is the one closest to the left headlight. The lead from this coil plugs onto one of the peripheral terminals on the distributor cap labelled "T". The terminals on the distributor cap labelled L1, L2, L3 and L4 go to the spark plugs in this order:

L1 (leading plug, #1 rotor, ie: front rotor) = bottom plug on front rotor.
L2 (leading plug, #2 rotor, ie: rear rotor) = bottom plug on rear rotor.
T1 (trailing plug, #1 rotor, ie: front rotor) = top plug on front rotor.
T2 (trailing plug, #2 rotor, ie: rear rotor) = top plug on rear rotor.

dumpedfb82

ok does anyone have any ideas could it be timing maybe

Aviator 902S

Depends: Have you had your distributor out, or loosened and then moved from its original position since it last ran right? If so, then timing could be out.

Otherwise, the only way your timing could be off is if your plug wires are not connected correctly.

Kentetsu

What year car is this anyway?

Aviator 902S

Forum name and profile sez its an '82.

dumpedfb82

its a 82 it could be the timing since my wired where on backwords for awhile lol i bet thats it cause i have spark and everything can someone tell me how to time