1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Need help in diagnosing no fuel delivery

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Old 03-13-07, 01:15 PM
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Unhappy Need help in diagnosing no fuel delivery

ive got an 85 12a thats ben sitting for a few years w/o a moter so i got a running 84 parts car and swaped the engine w/trany put im not getting fuel to the carb i put on the new fuel pump, filter, and fuel relay from the 84 so i think i'm going to pull the fuel tank to clean/inspect am i missing some thing
Old 03-13-07, 02:49 PM
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So far so good, add an extra filter just before the carb for the crap that comes out of the fuel lines that are post pump.
Old 03-13-07, 03:17 PM
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Can you verify if the pump is running? You might want to do that before you pull the tank. The pump will only run when cranking.

Also see if the tach needle moves when cranking. If not, then the trailing ignitor may be bad. The fuel pump will not run with a faulty trailing ignitor.
Old 03-13-07, 06:51 PM
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ignitor? is that the coil? idont think that the tach is working. the fuel light is staing on and the fuel gage isint working i ran jumpers to the pump and i could hear it working. if i had the power and ground switched would that make the pump run backwards?? i'll switch the coils from the 84 when i get home
Old 03-13-07, 08:52 PM
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The ignitor(control module) is attached to the distributor. It is the one located furthest from the front of the car. Check the connections to make sure they are tight and not corroded.
On 84-85 models the fuel pump circuit goes thru the trailing ignitor. The fuel pump is designed to come on only when attempting to start the car unlike the earlier models where the fuel pump is activated as soon as the ignition is turned to the on postiton. As Kentetsu has stated if the tachometer is not moving as you start to crank the engine there is a problem with the trailing operation of the ignition.
Old 03-14-07, 11:27 AM
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Unhook the fuel lines from each end, and blow compressed air thru them. This will help to remove any clogs, and may need to be repeated a few times. When you see how much crud comes out, you'll want to add the 2nd fuel filter....

Hey trochoid, I'm usually the one advising the addition of a 2nd filter at the carb. Looks like I am not the only person to know the value of the additional filter.
Old 03-14-07, 11:49 AM
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I ran power straight to my pump through an on/off switch because my tach took a ****.
I run the pump a few seconds and then crank the car and it turns on fine.

I think the easiest way to check if your coils are working is to pull the plug wire off one at a time and hold it close to the coil and see if there is a spark.
Old 03-14-07, 12:05 PM
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After sandblasting and rehabbing my fuel tank, I was having carb/fuel problems, even with all new lines from the tank to the carb. Installed a 2nd filter just before the carb and was suprised to see how much fine sand still in the tank was going through the rear filter. Sand is not good for a fresh engine.

Any vehicle that has sat for an extended period will have congealed fuel everywhere. When one takes the usual steps for cleaning out the fuel system, everything after the primary stock filter heads straight for the carb. Very frustrating if one just did a fresh rebuild on the carb.

Yeah, I'm a growing convert for a 2nd filter, especially since the ones that are internal to the carbs themselves are trashed on most of them and don't come in the kits.
Old 03-14-07, 12:12 PM
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The stock filter is just barely adequate (if that). You could do what I did, and set the system up with two filters in parallel. That way, each filter only has to perform 1/2 of the cleaning duties and you'll have a better chance of maintaining full flow through them. Just run a search for "dual fuel filter mod" and you should find my instructional thread...
Old 03-14-07, 03:57 PM
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For anyone that is concerned about adding a 2nd filter, at the carb, causing a flow/pressure drop. This will only occur if the filter is getting clogged. The stock filter location is between the tank and pump. The pump only pushes fuel. The pump is supplied with fuel thru the siphon effect, as it pushes fuel forward, more fuel is drawn from the tank.
The stock filter can actually reduce fuel flow with less crud in it, since the fuel is not under any pressure.
The filter near the carb, is supplied with pressure, and will not impeed flow until it has caught enough crud to start clogging it. By that time, you would have already had flooding issues, due to crud in the needle/seat of the carb. This can lead to the need to disassemble the carb, and clean it out. I'd rather change 100 filters, than disassemble a carb due to the crud that would have been caught by those filters........
Old 03-14-07, 04:28 PM
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IT LIVES Halaluja Halaluja So hear is the deal... i floushed the fuel lines, added a 2nd filter by the carb and put on the fuel tank w/pickup from the 84 but now i have a gauge cluster problem the only gauge that is working is the volt meeter ill start on that next. Thanks for all the help guys!!
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