1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Need Help buying a 1st gen

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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:47 PM
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Need Help buying a 1st gen

Alright guys and girls, I just came back from this guys house who is selling a 1985 GS. Im pretty sure thats the model it has a 12a motor in it.


Ill start off by saying all the bad stuff i noticed.

Alright, It leaks oil from the top rear right side of the engine. quite a bit while the cars running.
The rear break cable just snaped before i got there so its pissing break fluid all over the place behind the right rear wheel. U can hear a swish swish swish when some one pushs on the breaks. The clutch seems to go up a lil to slow for my liking its really soft. The RPM gauge doesnt work and the fuel gauge doesnt work also.

The engine has 218kms not miles.

It has a short shifter the body seems to be in good condition for the year it is. Its got headers I think with a presilencer and I dont know what kind of exhaust. Sounds like a sport bike lol but in a good way.

What do you guys think?

I think im going to buy it anything else i should look at before buying?


BTW I own a 90 TII and this will be the second 7 ill own if i get it.

Thanks

Joe
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 01:48 PM
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Sorry its got A header not headers
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 02:05 PM
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How much $ ?
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 02:10 PM
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The oil leak is the gay water to oil cooler. The o rings get old and they leak like mad. Either replace them or put a second gen air to oil cooler on it

Since you live up north, I would pull the storage bings out and look for rust in the wheelwells.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 02:24 PM
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He wanted 800 bucks Canadian.

But im not gonna pay that i offered 500 and he took it.

So none of those problems are really serious?
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 02:27 PM
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500 wtf.
damn
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 04:06 PM
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The Exaust and Shifter might even be worth $500
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 05:07 PM
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Nice deal! Some joker wanted $500 US for an '83 S that had a completely screwed up interior, totally screwed up brakes (couldn't tell when they engaged at all!), every body panel needed to be replaced, the interior driver's side door handle didn't work, and it took us almost 10 minutes to get the thing started, not to mention the fact that the tach would get stuck at roughly 3000 rpm, but exactly where it got stuck depended entirely on how fast the needle was moving right around 3000!
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 05:08 PM
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Sorry, just realized it was a GSL, 'cause it had a leather (or what used to be leather) interior.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 09:53 PM
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Yeah I think its a pretty good deal. Im going to give him the money tomorrow morning.

Do you guys think if I cut the brake cable hose where its cracked and put a larger piece of hose over top of both sides and clamp it down it will be ok to get me home its about a 20 min drive.

Thanks
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 09:55 PM
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If it's only a 20 min. drive borrow someone's CAA membership and have it towed. Best not to screw with a temperary hose in the brakes, since you'll probably get air in the system trying to get it in place.

$500 CDN is pretty good, even for a non-runner. Enjoy!
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 10:38 PM
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So whats the best way to band aid the line?
Dont know any one with a CAA and I dont want my 500 dollar 7 to turn into a 800 one with out it even being fixed.

The e-breke still works , I was using it to slow down today when I went for atest drive haha.
Kinda tricky but you get the hang of it quickly.
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 10:52 PM
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Call a few towing shops. A 20 min tow should cost $30-$50, far cheaper than failed brakes.
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 02:39 AM
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around here HOOKUP alone is $35, and every kilometer is $75

Jeff
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 02:40 AM
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I used my E-brake to stop once before, when I first got my car running, I drove it home (about 3 kilometers with about 5 stops) with just the e-brake... no biggie, just give yourself lots of room to stop.

Jeff
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 06:35 AM
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Around here hookup is $30 but towing is like $1 per km. Cost me $42 to FLATBED my ReX across town ( I prefer flatbedding as the car is up high and held still rather than dragged behind the towtruck with those stewpit lights stuck to the roof, ruining the paint)
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 05:35 PM
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Something you could do, although, I don't recommend it, is take a pair of Channel-Locks or some other heavy set of pliers and pinch off the metal line on the side that's leaking.. make sure it's closed good. Usually, a hammer is then used to again pinch it off a second time. This is truly a band-aid and should be fixed as soon as possible, but, if you're stuck somewhere with a blown brake hose, this'll work.

--Danny
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Old Aug 23, 2002 | 04:04 PM
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well ... i would agree with the guys that said to have it towed, but i totally understand, and though i DO NOT condone driving with f@#$ed up brakes ... if you're gonna do it, then do it safely.

see if you can pick it up at like 3 in the morning or some weird time like that, and just take it home ... SLOWLY !!!

good luck, and you did good. i wish i could find deals like that ...
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