chedda_j

I need to know where to tap the beehive for my turbo lines. No bull **** here ppl, i dont want to hear about how i should replace the beehive, i dont care what you say hahaa. Anyways.

Where do i tap?
Is it a hardline?
What kind of T-Fitting should i use?
What kind of hose should i use?
Clamps?
Return line from the turbo?

No_Rotor_RX7

you don't touch the beehive at all! run a 'T' fitting off of where the oil pressure regulator gets it's source. simple as that.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Well, I am going to be the 1st to tell you and I don't care if you listen or not(actually I do)because I don't want you to destroy your motor. The beehive is not adequate for a Turbo application. End of story!

steve84GS TII

True,......

And.............and,...........and...............a nd,although I seem to be the only one with a problem about this, and no one else seems to care when I mention it.....Im still gonna say it for your info....

If you tap your turbo's oil supply from the oil pressure sender location,you will be sending UNFILTERED oil to the turbo bearings.Last I checked,turbo bearings are close tolerance,and I wouldnt trust the stainer in the oilpan to get enough of the crud out.Thats why TII's tap off the front iron for their turbo oil.

renns

Very true!

As an alternative, many have used the oil filter adapter block as a source of oil for the turbo. If going that route, be sure to check that the source used is post-filter. I found with my adapter block (Racing Beat IIRC), the available ports were on the pre-filter side, indended for oil pressure gauge purposes, not as an turbo oil source. Drill and tap a new hole on the post-filter side if one doesn't already exist.

EDIT: To address some of your other questions, I used 1/8" NPT to brake line adapters, and ran a 1/4" steel hard-line from the adapter block down to the turbo, clamped in a couple spots to prevent vibration problems. At the turbo, buy or fab up an aluminum adapter plate that converts to two-bolt flange to 1/8" NPT. Total cost is about $10 at your friendly NAPA store. No bling factor here, but way above AN fittings and braided lines in the cost/performance comparison.



EDIT2: And for return line, tap the front cover 1/2" NPT, and use a 1/2" NPT to 3/4" hose adapter. The front cover wall thickness is pretty thin, so use some sealant, and don't over tighten the adapter. To connect to an S4 TII return line, cut the flange off the return line, and slip a piece of 3/4" silicone hose over top. Clamp it to the return line and the hose adapter.

chedda_j

Links to the adapter?

As far as i remember, the last time i posted about turbos, i had three ppl tell me that you can tap the oil line where i said. Anyways, source for a oil cooler? would the one work on the bottom of my radiator where my auto trans cooler used to be?

renns

No links. It's a chunk of aluminum with two thru-holes and a 1/8NPT tapped hole in the middle. In the time it takes to find a link you could have made one!

chedda_j

I ment for the oil filter adapter, so that i can get rid of the beehive

slashdawg00110

You need a pedestal from a non-beehive car, either an earlier FB/SA or a FC. You replace the whole beehive with the pedestal.

chedda_j

I thought racing beat sold one....


Anyways, btw, would a 12x 12x 2 oil cooler be sufficient for my turbo and my car?

I do have new one sitting on my old GMC

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

no...no....oil is much more viscous when it's boiling..

^12x12x2 should work. The bigger the better, to a point. I have always liked the SE coolers.

renns

Here's the Racing Beat Oil Pressure and Temperature Adapter.

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11802