Found a 85 GSL-SE for sale which I'm very interested in.
It has only 73k miles and all original.
Compression test has been done, 105 on all faces of the first rotor; the second one is 105 on two faces and 107 on the other. (Told by the seller)
Everything looks good to me, exterior, interior, can't see any cracks, paint look nice and shiny...(all based on pictures) only thing that doesnt work is the rear wiper.

I'm new to the rotaries, just want to know how much does it worth, he is asking 5500 for it.

And anything I should be worry about? I am planning on use it as a daily driver and maybe take it one a 1.5hrs (one way) road trip once a month.

Anything would be helpful!!!

Thank you!

 

$5500 is a little high unless it is in very good condition. When I say good condition I mean the interior looks like new and the engine bay is spotless and has little signs of wear. I'm very picky and OCD. I'd say $4500 tops --- but I'm cheap.

 

I paid 1800 for mine in good shape up north without a spec of rust, 5500 is way too high. i'd say 3500 maybe, realizing I got a solid deal.

Edit: your in SC, i just moved from near myrtle beach, thats highway robbery there man. The GSL SE is nice but I almost picked up a gsl for 1200 a couple weeks ago in superb shape. Your in that area where there are still choices.

 

It does look very clean, leather interior, can't see any tears and cracks.
I've attached some pics.

 

There's not too many around SC for sale, I'm in Columbia, the ones for sale on CL are in pretty bad conditions...

Anywhere else i should look for then besides here and CL?

 

well that thing hasn't been near the beach. it is nice.

 

trust me they are around, also venturing near the NC border and hitting places like wilmington is where I would find more of them. Sometimes you come across ones with for sale signs out there that aren't listed on CL because they are older guys who have had them for years. I'll dig through my phone and see if I can find the number for the one for 1200 for you and PM it to you.

 

Thanks!!!

 

welcome brian. depending on how far ur willing to go for it, i check atlanta area CL from time to time.

 

I think $5.5K isn't too far off for a low-mileage -SE in very good condition, which that looks to be. Prices for the '79s and -SEs have been creeping up for the past 5 years or so.

Not my favorite color combo (I've had my share of '80s maroon interiors ), but to each his own.

Have you test-driven it yet? Check for oil and coolant leaks of course, and excessive play in the steering (>1" of free play on center).

What's the black thing on the passenger door panel? Aftermarket speakers?

 

I agree, after seeing the pics, if the underneath is as nice, and comp. #'s are true, I'd pay 4500....

 

I have not yet test driven it or seen it in person yet, cuz his is 5 hours drive from me, but maybe I can make a trip down there on Mon.
The guy who owns it now worked and raced for Mazda (told by him), and he currently owns 5 FD and couple others rotaries I believe,

 

I think I could talk him down a lil since 5500 is the listing price....

 

It all comes down to mechanical condition and how much you might have to spend to get it up to snuff. Sure you can find SE's for 2k, but chances are you will be dumping that plus more if you end up needing to replace/repair some expensive things like drive shafts, oil coolers, radiators, etc. If the car is mechanically sound and exterior and interior are clean, $4k to $6k seems fair to me. I know that's what I would ask for mine. I spent more on a new paint job than I paid for it! LOL

 

dark tint windows.... some airbrushing here and there....


See this car in person, it may surprise you. (in a bad way)

 

Don't want to drive 5 hours for that lol

 

if it is mechanically sound, how expensive/hard of maintenance would be? and would it make a good dd?

 

Whether it would make a good DD depends a lot on how you drive. A 1984-85 car with only 73k original miles will still have the age-related parts breakage just do to the time which has elapsed, even if the car wasn't driven, non-use can be as bad as heavy use for some components.

I've used my -SE as a DD for about 3 years and it worked out well for me but I also took immaculate care of the car to keep it in great running condition. Doing DD and also adding weekly 150mi trips shouldn't be a problem but know that these cars aren't knowing for being miserly on gasoline - expect to get about 18-20mpg city and you'll be doing well.

For your conversation with the seller - he sounds like a rotorhead if he owns a bunch of other rotary cars. That means he likely knows what he has (a relatively rare -SE version with low miles) and also knows that he can wait for the right buyer who wants it to relive some of their youth. If you try to low-ball him, I doubt that will go well unless he's trying to free up garage space. That said, I'd go about $4000-4500, and know that as long as everything checks out mechanically, you'd be $$$ ahead. Finding parts for these would quickly add up to several thousand $$$ that would add up to his asking price pretty quickly.

Take a good look around the engine bay and make sure everything looks right - an oil leak around the irons from sitting may check out okay with a compression test, but would only be fixed through a full rebuild. Also, check the water pump for play and weeping. Check all 4 corners for leaking brake calipers, and good luck,

 

Maintenance is relatively simple on the '7. In my experience there's little that isn't easy to access and replace with a little patience and know-how.

As far as a DD, if someone were coming in cold without a specific flavor of first-gen in mind, I would steer them toward a 12A car. The -SE's fuel injection system is more complex and finicky than the 12As' carbs and highly dependent on everything working perfectly, from the fuel pump and AFM to the ignitors and all the sensors.

 

I used to think the same thing back when I was driving an SA22 (80-LS, 12a carbbed), but when I moved up to the -SE things got a lot better in terms of performance, and other than a few smaller things like having to set the TPS more carefully - driving an -SE is a far more rewarding experience. Also, you can't deny the extra 35hp and torque you pick up by going with the 13b, and you'll only get that with EFI in the 1st gen body style.

Point being - if it's the car you have in hand, it's the one you need to learn to maintain. Either will be rewarding and fun to work on,