Need advise on 1985 GSL-SE, i'm new to the rotary world
06-07-14, 06:36 PM
#1
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Need advise on 1985 GSL-SE, i'm new to the rotary world
Found a 85 GSL-SE for sale which I'm very interested in.
It has only 73k miles and all original.
Compression test has been done, 105 on all faces of the first rotor; the second one is 105 on two faces and 107 on the other. (Told by the seller)
Everything looks good to me, exterior, interior, can't see any cracks, paint look nice and shiny...(all based on pictures) only thing that doesnt work is the rear wiper.
I'm new to the rotaries, just want to know how much does it worth, he is asking 5500 for it.
And anything I should be worry about? I am planning on use it as a daily driver and maybe take it one a 1.5hrs (one way) road trip once a month.
Anything would be helpful!!!
Thank you!
It has only 73k miles and all original.
Compression test has been done, 105 on all faces of the first rotor; the second one is 105 on two faces and 107 on the other. (Told by the seller)
Everything looks good to me, exterior, interior, can't see any cracks, paint look nice and shiny...(all based on pictures) only thing that doesnt work is the rear wiper.
I'm new to the rotaries, just want to know how much does it worth, he is asking 5500 for it.
And anything I should be worry about? I am planning on use it as a daily driver and maybe take it one a 1.5hrs (one way) road trip once a month.
Anything would be helpful!!!
Thank you!
06-07-14, 06:51 PM
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Edit: your in SC, i just moved from near myrtle beach, thats highway robbery there man. The GSL SE is nice but I almost picked up a gsl for 1200 a couple weeks ago in superb shape. Your in that area where there are still choices.
Last edited by rebel101150; 06-07-14 at 06:54 PM. Reason: noted location
06-07-14, 07:09 PM
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I paid 1800 for mine in good shape up north without a spec of rust, 5500 is way too high. i'd say 3500 maybe, realizing I got a solid deal.
Edit: your in SC, i just moved from near myrtle beach, thats highway robbery there man. The GSL SE is nice but I almost picked up a gsl for 1200 a couple weeks ago in superb shape. Your in that area where there are still choices.
Edit: your in SC, i just moved from near myrtle beach, thats highway robbery there man. The GSL SE is nice but I almost picked up a gsl for 1200 a couple weeks ago in superb shape. Your in that area where there are still choices.
Anywhere else i should look for then besides here and CL?
06-07-14, 07:09 PM
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06-07-14, 07:11 PM
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trust me they are around, also venturing near the NC border and hitting places like wilmington is where I would find more of them. Sometimes you come across ones with for sale signs out there that aren't listed on CL because they are older guys who have had them for years. I'll dig through my phone and see if I can find the number for the one for 1200 for you and PM it to you.
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06-07-14, 07:16 PM
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trust me they are around, also venturing near the NC border and hitting places like wilmington is where I would find more of them. Sometimes you come across ones with for sale signs out there that aren't listed on CL because they are older guys who have had them for years. I'll dig through my phone and see if I can find the number for the one for 1200 for you and PM it to you.
06-07-14, 07:59 PM
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I think $5.5K isn't too far off for a low-mileage -SE in very good condition, which that looks to be. Prices for the '79s and -SEs have been creeping up for the past 5 years or so.
Not my favorite color combo (I've had my share of '80s maroon interiors
), but to each his own. 
Have you test-driven it yet? Check for oil and coolant leaks of course, and excessive play in the steering (>1" of free play on center).
What's the black thing on the passenger door panel? Aftermarket speakers?
Not my favorite color combo (I've had my share of '80s maroon interiors
), but to each his own. Have you test-driven it yet? Check for oil and coolant leaks of course, and excessive play in the steering (>1" of free play on center).
What's the black thing on the passenger door panel? Aftermarket speakers?
06-07-14, 08:37 PM
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I think $5.5K isn't too far off for a low-mileage -SE in very good condition, which that looks to be. Prices for the '79s and -SEs have been creeping up for the past 5 years or so.
Not my favorite color combo (I've had my share of '80s maroon interiors ), but to each his own.
Have you test-driven it yet? Check for oil and coolant leaks of course, and excessive play in the steering (>1" of free play on center).
What's the black thing on the passenger door panel? Aftermarket speakers?
Not my favorite color combo (I've had my share of '80s maroon interiors
), but to each his own. Have you test-driven it yet? Check for oil and coolant leaks of course, and excessive play in the steering (>1" of free play on center).
What's the black thing on the passenger door panel? Aftermarket speakers?
The guy who owns it now worked and raced for Mazda (told by him), and he currently owns 5 FD and couple others rotaries I believe,
06-07-14, 08:38 PM
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06-08-14, 05:42 PM
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It all comes down to mechanical condition and how much you might have to spend to get it up to snuff. Sure you can find SE's for 2k, but chances are you will be dumping that plus more if you end up needing to replace/repair some expensive things like drive shafts, oil coolers, radiators, etc. If the car is mechanically sound and exterior and interior are clean, $4k to $6k seems fair to me. I know that's what I would ask for mine. I spent more on a new paint job than I paid for it! LOL
06-09-14, 12:09 AM
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06-09-14, 12:11 AM
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It all comes down to mechanical condition and how much you might have to spend to get it up to snuff. Sure you can find SE's for 2k, but chances are you will be dumping that plus more if you end up needing to replace/repair some expensive things like drive shafts, oil coolers, radiators, etc. If the car is mechanically sound and exterior and interior are clean, $4k to $6k seems fair to me. I know that's what I would ask for mine. I spent more on a new paint job than I paid for it! LOL
06-09-14, 01:50 AM
#18
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Whether it would make a good DD depends a lot on how you drive. A 1984-85 car with only 73k original miles will still have the age-related parts breakage just do to the time which has elapsed, even if the car wasn't driven, non-use can be as bad as heavy use for some components.
I've used my -SE as a DD for about 3 years and it worked out well for me but I also took immaculate care of the car to keep it in great running condition. Doing DD and also adding weekly 150mi trips shouldn't be a problem but know that these cars aren't knowing for being miserly on gasoline - expect to get about 18-20mpg city and you'll be doing well.
For your conversation with the seller - he sounds like a rotorhead if he owns a bunch of other rotary cars. That means he likely knows what he has (a relatively rare -SE version with low miles) and also knows that he can wait for the right buyer who wants it to relive some of their youth. If you try to low-ball him, I doubt that will go well unless he's trying to free up garage space. That said, I'd go about $4000-4500, and know that as long as everything checks out mechanically, you'd be $$$ ahead. Finding parts for these would quickly add up to several thousand $$$ that would add up to his asking price pretty quickly.
Take a good look around the engine bay and make sure everything looks right - an oil leak around the irons from sitting may check out okay with a compression test, but would only be fixed through a full rebuild. Also, check the water pump for play and weeping. Check all 4 corners for leaking brake calipers, and good luck,
I've used my -SE as a DD for about 3 years and it worked out well for me but I also took immaculate care of the car to keep it in great running condition. Doing DD and also adding weekly 150mi trips shouldn't be a problem but know that these cars aren't knowing for being miserly on gasoline - expect to get about 18-20mpg city and you'll be doing well.
For your conversation with the seller - he sounds like a rotorhead if he owns a bunch of other rotary cars. That means he likely knows what he has (a relatively rare -SE version with low miles) and also knows that he can wait for the right buyer who wants it to relive some of their youth. If you try to low-ball him, I doubt that will go well unless he's trying to free up garage space. That said, I'd go about $4000-4500, and know that as long as everything checks out mechanically, you'd be $$$ ahead. Finding parts for these would quickly add up to several thousand $$$ that would add up to his asking price pretty quickly.
Take a good look around the engine bay and make sure everything looks right - an oil leak around the irons from sitting may check out okay with a compression test, but would only be fixed through a full rebuild. Also, check the water pump for play and weeping. Check all 4 corners for leaking brake calipers, and good luck,
06-09-14, 07:37 AM
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Maintenance is relatively simple on the '7. In my experience there's little that isn't easy to access and replace with a little patience and know-how.
As far as a DD, if someone were coming in cold without a specific flavor of first-gen in mind, I would steer them toward a 12A car. The -SE's fuel injection system is more complex and finicky than the 12As' carbs and highly dependent on everything working perfectly, from the fuel pump and AFM to the ignitors and all the sensors.
As far as a DD, if someone were coming in cold without a specific flavor of first-gen in mind, I would steer them toward a 12A car. The -SE's fuel injection system is more complex and finicky than the 12As' carbs and highly dependent on everything working perfectly, from the fuel pump and AFM to the ignitors and all the sensors.
06-11-14, 01:20 AM
#20
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
I used to think the same thing back when I was driving an SA22 (80-LS, 12a carbbed), but when I moved up to the -SE things got a lot better in terms of performance, and other than a few smaller things like having to set the TPS more carefully - driving an -SE is a far more rewarding experience. Also, you can't deny the extra 35hp and torque you pick up by going with the 13b, and you'll only get that with EFI in the 1st gen body style.
Point being - if it's the car you have in hand, it's the one you need to learn to maintain. Either will be rewarding and fun to work on,
Point being - if it's the car you have in hand, it's the one you need to learn to maintain. Either will be rewarding and fun to work on,
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