Hey guys,

I just thought that I would share some pictures with everyone. I designed my own strut bar based on some of the ideas that I've seen over the last several years around here. It is made of square steel tubing, and steel plates. The tube attaches to the plates with 3/8" Grade 8 bolts. The whole thing weighs in at about 9 pounds. I also found some plastic end caps to go over the ends of the steel tubing so that you can't see inside. They may actually end up a little different than what my model shows, as I haven't seen the caps in person yet. I made up a sticker to put on it just for fun too.



Tell me what you think of it! Thanks!

Jamie
Glazedham42

 

ummm, cant see it?

 

No pics!

 

looks good although i would change the mounting points and paint it a different color

 

Umm I think you forgot the *PICS* part

 

Best I have ever seen.

 

Glazedham42 - I saw this when you first posted it, and now the images have disappeared.

I am an engineer, and I have discussed this subject over the years with some very smart structural engineers and race car chassis designers. They basically all agree with me that if your strut brace is not triangulated to the firewall, you are wasting your time. Of course you get some small benefit by bracing the two shock towers together, but it is minimal compared to what you get by triangulation. I have read comments from people here who just rave about how much better their cars handle with these strut braces that are not triangulated - it is just nonsense. Believe whatever you want to believe.

If you are going to do it, do it right. I worked with my chassis expert to design and build a brace for my FB, which has a V8 and pretty good wheels and tires, so it is heavily stressed. The whole assembly as shown here weighs 5 pounds, made from solid aluminum rod and using heim joints, which makes it fully adjustable. I am happy with the handling, but I have never driven it without the strut brace.

 

^ That looks good

 

why do i see valve covers?

 

Got that Vtec.

 

Lolz, yeah he probably needs more structural rigidity due to his far greater amount of torque he is putting down, but i could use a little stiffening too

 

Looks like the mod removed the image for some reason. No more image in this post.

 

hmm..so none of these are for sale? This thread is useless then....waaaah...=(

 

Yep, was a accident when editing the thread. I pm'd Jamie and informed him but he has not been back on since yesterday morning. I'm sure that he will repost pictures for all to see.

 

Sorry for the lack of pictures guys, I will get pictures put up within the next day or so. Doc and I had to edit the thread to comply with the rules of the forum, and somehow the pictures got lost in the mix. Give me a day or two and they'll be back on. I've been having trouble with my internet connection at home....

Jamie

 

...never trust the word of a guy that'd put a V8 in a poor rex......with a central air cleaner, I'm sure his triangulation is easy...how about a Nikki carb on the passenger side of the car? Or the TII or FD swap? Can the rod idea still be used?

 

^ good point, didnt think about the different dimensions of our rotaries!

 

Ok Guys,

Finally here are the pictures!!! The first couple of pictures are the design that I came up with and modeled in 3D on the computer. The next couple of pictures are the actual strut bar that I made based on the 3D model.

Plans for triangulation are in the works, but I haven't gotten too far with them yet. If I recall correctly, the SCCA doesn't allow triangulated strut tower braces? So if I decide to go with a triangulated design then the firewall braces will be removable for track events...

Jamie

 

Here are the pictures of the actual bar I made. I just got it done yesterday, and threw some blue paint on it in the spirit of the stock air cleaner. Used Grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts to attach to the base plates. I've still got to get some plastic caps to put on the ends of the tubing so that you can't see inside. That's just a minor detail though. It's 99% done though. What do you guys think??

Jamie

 

I think it's simple and effective. Well done. It appears that it would clear just about all two rotor engines as well. I would put two bolts on each side though so it's harder to twist in case of any twisting. I like ham without the glaze though. he he

 

How Effective is this? Seeing as how he Bolted it all together instead of welding it?

 

I based this off of the old Rotary Engineering Design. Mine is a little bit different, but not a whole lot. See pictures from Trochoid's widebody FB below....

The bar isn't going to twist because it is pinned at its endpoints. This concept is known as a two force member. Whatever forces are acting at one end of the bar will always be counteracted by an equal and opposite force on the other side. It's a fine example of Newton's third law of motion.

See below for more examples of two force members. The concept doesn't always make sense based on gut instincts, but the physics is there....

http://web.mst.edu/~bestmech/statics/sa/sa/6_1_2_2.swf

 

would this clear the stock air box?

 

Nice clean and simple design, but I prefer round instead of square tube. Which ever tube you end up with, make the ends like the RE bar on my widebody, then you won't need to cap or finish the ends. 2 bolts at the ends of the bar won't add anymore stability than the single bolt does.

 

So what is your plan with these? Are they going to be produced and sold in anyway? So far i am getting interested! I like it