1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

My so far day of taking my engine apart, a question arose.

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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 12:02 PM
  #1  
O 16581 72452 5's Avatar
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The infamous number guy!
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My so far day of taking my engine apart, a question arose.

I go to sears the minute it opens for a 2 1/8 inch ratchet everything goes great, get the flywheel nut off no problem, taking the flywheel off was the problem. I hammer on it for about 15 minutes, jam pry bars inbetween it and the block, all unsuccessful. I finally get angry and stick the pry bar inbetween the block and flywheel, grab the huge 3/4" drive semi-truck ratchet i used for the flyweel, get a running start and swing as hard as i can at the prybar. The flywheel falls to the ground and the prybar goes flying across the garage and sticks into the wall . Now with the flywheel off, i start loosening the dowel pins, each difficult to get out, and each one is covered in water droplets. What is this cause of water being on these pins? I move to the front plate to get those small pins out, i struggle with one and finally it breaks sending my ring finger into the a/c mounting bracket, i look at my finger and it's bleeding from practically the opposite side of where i hit it and the swelling has begun. This is my break, i came in, had a sandwich and am ready to go back out.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 12:38 PM
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abeomid's Avatar
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well those bolts do infact run in the water jackets and around them, so there is always some water left in there when the block is cracked open. SO don't worry about it too much.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 01:13 PM
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AdrenalifeRX7's Avatar
Are you gonna shift?!
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From: Rochester, NY
You didn't hammer the flywheel with a STEEL hammer did you?! You gotta use a rubber mallet or something.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 02:24 PM
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From: willcox AZ
uh

I hope that you know those bolts around the engine there are 18 of them.I believe are supposed to come out in a special order. I dont have a fly wheel tool either, or i would have a 13bt in my gs but i quit tearing 3 engines apart cuz that damned radioactive nut

oh yeh to make things clear mazda man. their cars in Hiroshima
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 03:24 PM
  #5  
coldy13's Avatar
Yeah, shutup kid.
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I would suggest not using a normal flywheel puller. I tried that first, and bent the sh*t out of it. So I moved up to a little more "hardcore" flywheel puller, 2" thick steel

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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 03:30 PM
  #6  
O 16581 72452 5's Avatar
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The infamous number guy!
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I just took those dowel bolts out no problem, got the engine taken apart and now have a rotor displayed by my computer.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 04:25 PM
  #7  
Suparslinc's Avatar
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Taking the engine apart is easy, do you plan on putting it together?
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 04:51 PM
  #8  
O 16581 72452 5's Avatar
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The infamous number guy!
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From: Terre Haute, IN.
I don't plan on it anytime soon.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 04:56 PM
  #9  
Mr BiG G's Avatar
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
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From: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
so ur doin it jus to learn bout it n stuff?
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 05:01 PM
  #10  
O 16581 72452 5's Avatar
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The infamous number guy!
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From: Terre Haute, IN.
Basically. I'll state my plan again; port my rotor housings, use s4 or s5 rotors and intake manifold, then dropping it all in whichever of the two i've decided to get. I'd rather have an FC than my GSL-SE, the body on my SE is getting to be in pretty sad shape and will cost less just to start over. I'd rather have an FC because of it's appearance and aftermarket availability.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 05:10 PM
  #11  
Mr BiG G's Avatar
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
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From: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
kool....good plan...i guess i'll be doin that...check out this thread and tell me if it's a good deal or not...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=212082

thanx
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 05:19 PM
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excitingleopard's Avatar
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From: Pennsylvania
Dude......hahaha.....

What the **** does the title to this thread mean?
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 05:22 PM
  #13  
Mr BiG G's Avatar
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
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From: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
on this forum...english doesn't matter....as long as we understand wat he wants....ryte?
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 05:29 PM
  #14  
O 16581 72452 5's Avatar
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The infamous number guy!
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From: Terre Haute, IN.
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 05:57 AM
  #15  
V8kilr's Avatar
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From: Troy,Mi
When I tore apart my first rotary "years ago" I found the flywheel nut to be a bitch, I used a huge breaker bar "about 4 foot" and it wouldnt budge.

Then I finally got it off with air power, but it wasnt over.
Now the flywheel would not come off for the life of me.

I used a gear puller tool with prybars and light tapping all at the same time.

Then I learned they way of the shaolin rotary style "sorry couldnt resist".

Here are my secrets to ripping this half of the motor down "btw I ripped down to many rotaries to count over the years, ported em, rebuilt em, sold em on ebay".

First grab an impact gun capable of 350+ ft pounds of torque.
Then crank your PSI to 110-125 "recomended is 90 for most guns but 110-125 will work wonders on stubbern nuts"

You shouldnt even have to stop the engine from spinning, if you dont get it the first time just wait until the pressure builds back up into your tank.

Now for the flywheel, this works for me everytime.

I grab my big smooth head steel hammer and nail the very outside face of the flywheel.

Try not to hit the teeth or where the clutch rides on the flywheel.

If it dont come off the first time just spin the engine 180 degrees and nail it again.

Usally they drop for me the first try.

Oh yeah watch your toes
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