kcscott11

Ok, here are my plans, that are set in place for my 1979 Rx7!

My carburetor has given me MAJOR issues since i bought the car! The good news is that its on the way to sterling to be rebuilt!!!
I have a new set of plugs and wires waiting for the carb to come back!! and I have A new fuel pump already installed. This weekend I am going to go ahead and drain the gas and put new gas in it so that its not an issue. I am going to ppg to buy my paint for it sometime next week. I already purchased seat covers, and floor mats and such, anyhow after I finish everything ill post my before and after pictures, but im getting pretty excited about the car. I really am!!

Kentetsu

Good call on sending your carb to Sterling.

What fuel pump did you install? Also, I would recommend taking this downtime to clean, clean, clean everything! Especially in the engine bay. You won't regret it.



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kcscott11

Ahh hell, i cant remember the brand name of the fuel pump. It may have been airtex, all i know, i that the pressure was in the correct range and it was just an aftermarket inline fuel pump. It definately works. Anyhow thats kind of my plan, im going to go through everything, and put everything back together that i have taken apart, i need to put my new inside door handles on, they were plastic... and brittle, they both broke, my parts car has aluminum ones that look like they should work, so those will be going in it. Im going to vaccuum everything, wash it, etc. Work all the kinks out that i can.... im trying to get this thing done, and make it a dd. Also, a nice looking dd. Which shouldnt be a problem! I think it will turn out nice. Ill keep you all updated and post pictures.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

'luck draining the gas - SA's have no drain plug!!!
You can get the most gas out while the tank is still in the car by removing the fuel-level float assy, located in the driver rear wheel-well side. NOTE you WILL need a new gasket for this! Otherwise trying to siphon thru fuel filler is a bi-otch! No way to get it ALL out.
If the car has been sitting (stored) with gas sitting in the tank for any length of time (1 yr+), you will be facing 2 issues:
1) rust from moisture condensing thru heat/cooling cycles within tank ABOVE gas level. This stuff will be just WAITING to shed off and plug filters and internals at very inopportune times...
2) residual gas will have converted to glop which you do NOT want to be pumping into shiny new Sterling.
Now is the time to PULL the tank, get it professionally chem dunked at a good rad shop ($65-ish), then SEAL the tank internally with a tank sealer product like the one sold by POR15 (.com). This can save you huge drivability issues down the road - don't ask me how I know ;P
If you do decide to pull the tank, just pay VERY CLOSE ATTENTION to where the 4 hoses attach from the tank to the fuel system!!!! Digi-pix are your friend!

And obviously a new fuel filter will be in order -
'luck and enjoy
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

kcscott11

hmmm i was just going to let my fuel pump do the work, disconnect it right at the pump and drain into a bucket, although, when i changed my fuel filter there was alot of rust orange gunk in the old on that had it almost completely stopped up... kinda sad....

rotordogg

iTrader: (4)

I would suggest simply replacing the tank. A lot less hassle on the long run and you know it is fixed.

kcscott11

I ordered this http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAI...ductinfo/FTRK/ to redo my fuel tank. Yall think this will work?? Im going to pull the tank today then ill just be waiting for it to come in! Then ill only be waiting for my carb. My muffler is ordered to, but it should be here really soon as well. I cant wait! Everything seems like it is coming together perfectly!

kcscott11

just pulled the tank and drained the gas, here is a little bit of it for you to see!! Im soooo glad i made the decision to do this!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Call around your local radiator shops and find one that boils out fuel tanks. It needs to be cleaned out before sealing.

kcscott11

anyone know where to get the little plastic bushing that goes in the hole on the outside door handle, that the linkage goes into?? mine is broke on my passenger door....

kcscott11

i acutally found a rubber bushing that was big enough around to not go through the door handle hole, and the hole in it was small enough to go on the linkage tightly! so now all my door handles work propperly, lol three of them were broken!!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

keep us updated with pics. definatly have the tank hot tanked/boiled and check it for rust and pin holes. you will also want to replace the fuel filter. scummy gas and debris in your tank will cause your 7 to run extremely poor. so far it sounds like you've got a good start to fixing your car up.

kcscott11

Its coming along man! im pretty excited about it, but anxious too. I just cant wait to finish everything, and get it painted!! The car will be in pretty excellent shape! Ill take some new pics soon.... thanks K.C. Also, the kit i ordered for the gas tank comes with strippers and such..... should i still boil the tank just to be safe??

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Yes - for all your going thru - splurge on the chem-dunk - just sealing all that crap in with the POR won't work. The dunk gives the cleanest surfaces to adhere to, which is the secret to the tank seal.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

kcscott11

ok, so after alot of thought, and calling some shops today, I have come to my conclusion. I am not boiling the tank. Only two shops anywhere around my area clean fuel tanks. One boils them, and he said it could cost anywhere from 85.00 (their starting price on im guessing a fairly new clean tank) all the way to 350.00 (which is more for like what i have) the other shop just cleans them with acids, and he said it ranges 150.00 to 200.00. Well seeings as i have already spen 80 something dollars on the kit to clean and seal it myself, im just going to take my time and do it myself.... to spend another 200 on it, makes for a very expensive gas tank!! I just got done pressure washing the inside at the carwash for a good hour and 20 minutes until next to nothing but water would come out, then i came home and blew dry it with the aircompressor. The kit i bought comes with the following

* MARINE CLEAN™ to remove gum, sludge, varnish
* METAL READY™ to remove rust & prepare tank for sealer
* U.S. STANDARD TANK SEALER™ to permanently seal tank
* FUEL PRESERVATIVE & STABILIZER™ to keep the fuel system trouble-free
* DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS so you'll do the job right.

so im going to follow their directions and clean it with the marine clean, then the metal ready, then seal it. Im going to make a full day out of it, hopfully this weekend if it comes in when it should! anyhow I think the tank will be fine, as long as I dont take any short cuts and take my time! I thank yall for yalls input, but I cannot afford it, along with all the other stuff I have to buy for the car. Also, i will be sure to put an extra fuel filter in the line, like 2 in a row.... just to be extra safe. :-) anyhow I think everything will work fine. Thanks again. K.C.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

keep us posted on how it works out for you. seems like it'll be fine.

Kentetsu

I'm glad you made the decision to pull the tank and dump all the crap out of it. Nothing worse than strapping on a new carb, only to mess it up and have to rebuld it again due to crap clogging some little passageway somewhere in it.

Good luck with the cleaning/restoring process.

kcscott11

oh how glad i am too. It was pretty bad, its not so bad now from what i can tell, and once the kit comes in, it will be even better. Im going to spray the outside of the tank with some flat black, to keep it from rusting on the outside as well. This weekend there will be alot more happening to the car. Im going to try to take some pics too!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i would also replace the fuel level sender (or resolder and clean it) and undercoat the outside of the tank after any rust is taken care of.

kcscott11

ahhh good thinking... then maybe my fuel guage will work again! I will check it out! would this universal one work?? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=418154 if not does anyone know where to find one?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Use the POR15 rust coat stuff - absolutely nuke-proof finish for the exterior of the Tank... stops any seam rust too boot...
and don't forget to order a NEW sender gasket
'Luck

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i would snag a new oem sender from the dealer or from mazdatrix. you're this far in, don't skimp out.

rotarycrazy

iTrader: (8)

I did my gas tank with muriatik acid from Loves or home depo just put water in it and acid let it sit for a while it will take about 3 days to get it all out but its well worth the trubble and the 20 for acid.

kcscott11

I have been looking for a fuel level sender and the closest thing i have found is this one (see picture) which is for a fuel cell. What ohms do the stock ones send out?? This one is 0-90 ohm sending range. it looks alot like the oem one. but that doesnt mean it will work... i cant find any made for our car.... not even mazdatrix carries 79-80 model rx7s

kcscott11

i just poured the marine clean in the tank. Just curious if anyone has any ideas on how to plus the fuel level sender hole, the fuel fill hole, and such for when i turn the tank over to soak the top..... it sounds kinda hard, but sureley someone can think of something.....