gonzz

What sze tires do you run with the adapters?

red13brx7

I was just browsing the local junkyard for maybe some wheels and I found some Conquest TSI 14inch wheels that will bolt up to the new adapters. 14s would be nice because I have 14" slicks in my garage that would work. They aren't too bad looking, I would powder coat them black. Here is a picture tell me what you think ... they are only $75 for all four.

Wankelguy

Sometimes people need to figure things out for themselves.

Pedestrian X

Then why did you bother to bring it up in the first place?

Eville140

I still can't figure out what they safety problems are that everybody seems to knoe about? What makes them bad? They are cut from billet alum, and they are thicker and stronger than the hub of the rims. I would bet the center of a rim would tear out before the spacers gave.
I have also read about the "increased load on the bearings", but how would running the spacers with a 45mm offset rim be any differnt opn the bears as apoosed to running a hard to find 4-110mm wheel with 20mm offset?


Later
Randy

red13brx7

They wouldn't we just like to make things up because thats what people "think" should happen. I would say I will be the first to admit they don't work if they fail on my car. But until then I don't know anyone who has had them fail.. hell they use them on race cars and eibach and HKS or someone sells them. If you do it right, it should be centered and you shouldn't have any problems. But if they give a bad ride, then I would only use them for show. But that has not been seen yet. So I will keep you guys posted on them.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

The stock wheels and most aftermarket wheels are "hub centric". When you remove your wheel from the hub you will notice a round boss that protrudes from the flat hub face. This will be a few thousandths of an inch smaller diameter than the center hole in the wheel. This makes sure the wheel fits onto the hub and will rotate on the same centerline as the axle or king pin. That is only half of the story.

The rest of the story is a bolt, or in this case, a wheel stud has one purpose in life. To hold two parts together in tension. Not to laterally locate them together. That should be left up to part design or dowels. A hub centric protruding boss in a since is a big diameter dowel. This allows the bolts to simply do their intended job - hold the two parts together.

I have made a few sets of wheel spacers for road race cars over the years. They can be safe. If designed and manufactured correctly. A smooth disk with holes in it is not good part design.

Will they work for you? Who knows. I do not have to worry about it, I did not make them.


-billy

BIG J MIXALOT

would it make the wheels stick out from the car

Eville140

Hun centric has nothing to do with the studs. You are right that studs are made to do one thing...hold two parts together. That is why you tighten them. Once they are tight the hub does nothing. The reason most factory rims are hubcentric is to make it easier for the assymbly line. Most aftermarket rims are lug centric so they will fit more than one vehicle. And if you are a complete tool and you can't figure out how to center the rim you can purchase in most cases (some wheels even include them) plastic spacers to help you. Discount tire and a few dozen other places even have alum. ones if you want.

Ow well, doesn't bother me that everybody "thinks" they know they are bad. I'm just happy to not have the ratty old stockers or panasports on my car.

Later
Randy

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guru,

Do you have them for Series III (or GSL-SE) to 5 bolts?
I will be getting a new (Ford) rear soon, and would like to switch the fronts to 5 lug as well.

jorx81@aol.com

iTrader: (6)

ok so the regular lug nuts are recessed into the aluminum ring right?
To me it dosen't look like a lot of meat (aluminum thickness) holds the ring on?

Any thoughts/corrections?

web777

It depends on the offset. Yes, it'll stick out of you are running the stock offset.

elwood

iTrader: (1)

You have to look at the whole picture. Each time you bolt something to another without any sort of centering pin there is a chance for misalignment. Hypothetical example: When you bolt the adapter to the hub, it could be off 1.0 mm. When you bolt the wheel to the adapter it could be off an additional 1.0 mm. If these two cancel one another you could be OK & your car will run as smooth as silk. If not, you could be off 2.0mm and you'll feel vibration.

When you do feel the vibration, however, you won't know it was the misalignment -- you won't even know which corner of the car. You'll probably start by re-balancing all the wheels (time and $), then once that doesn't work, you'll check the wheels & tires for roundness (time and $), then last, you'll think to check for wheel-to-hub alignment (which there is no cheap fix for).

I don't think the condition would be dangerous, but I know it would be annoying to me. Remember that the hub-centric centering ring was engineered into the hubs for a reason. For my money, I would always try to maintain the hubcentric feature. H&R makes adapters that are hubcentric, avail through the Tire Rack.

Also, another post indicated that most wheels weren't hubcentric. That's probably true, but it doesn't make it right. Most (maybe all) high quality wheels are hubcentric -- whether through the machining or through add-on hubcentric rings, which you may have to request from the salesperson.

red13brx7

Well like I said before.. I already knew about all this stuff that people say. I know that they can be some what of a pain. but I am ready to deal with it. If they work then great! But if they don't I won't use them simple as that. I had them on the car already and they work out nice. I am just waiting for some rims.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Like I said, It is not my problem. I am not trying to argue with anyone about this. I know what I am talking about.

I just wish people would understand what they are talking about before giving advise. The hub has everything to do with the wheel - even after you have tightened the bolts. To say that it is only there to make it easier on the assembly line is just plain wrong.

Aftermarket wheel bores are made large so they can fit a greater number of vehicles without making a bunch of different wheels that are car specific. It is cheaper for the manufactures to make a number of different size "spacer rings". IMO, the "tool" is the person who does not use them - rather than the person who does.

To quote Carroll Smith - "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" -Page 71

"Always bear in mind that clamping is the function of bolts and that location is the function of dowels"


According to your theory, There is no reason for the dowels on the flywheel that locate the pressure plate.


-billy

red13brx7

I do believe that the adapter with the hub centric ring would definitley be better. I was talking to my dad before I bought them and we decided if they didn't work that we would take them to a guy I know that can add the ring for a little bit of money. But I do want to try them without it just to see if they work. I think they will be fine for everyday driving, I just wouldn't go rip down the drag strip with them just yet.

85RX-Seven

Check out CP Racing and Design and there are some 4 to 5 lug adapters on their web site for sale. They make them and they are really good quality. They go for $325 and i believe are 1" thick
Check it out.

Dysfnctnl85

iTrader: (11)

Wow.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

What is the offset for these? 35mm or 55mm? All of the talk about the evil wheel spacers are relics of old, "common" knowledge based on old, faulty products. They really aren't anymore relative today than talk about the dangers of running an "unreliable" electric fan like you heard in the 80s. It's time to let the Urban Myth about dangerous wheel spacers die unless someone can cite a first person account with pics...

red13brx7

The type from CP racing and the type that I have are almost exactly the same. The CP racing and the other adapters are also 1.25 inches thick. THe only diff is that they convert to 5 lug and they use one of the exsitying studs to screw into the hub, because it only looks like you use 3 but you actually use one that is there. I think the offset for those wheels are around 40 mm or 42mm because they are a basic honda offset that will make the wheel tuck really nice. I think when you put the wheel spacers on they put the offset to 40mm and you want something close so 42 for a honda isn't bad.

Eville140

I am pretty sure they are 15*6.5 with a 38mm offset. But as long as the rims are close to 38mm and fit a honda civic so far I have been okay. I have two sets of 15*6.5's one is 35mm the other has 38mm. both fit pretty much the same. I also have a set of 17*7's with 38mm,, they could be a couple more mm further in to get the wheel tucked up under the fender. But They rode and drove fine. Also most 17*7's have more than 38mm. I just happen to have a set that didn't.




And the ones pictures above. It sure is nice being able to buy Civic rims off ebay

Later
Randy