My new high quality, high-performance fuel system...
04-14-08, 03:20 PM
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My new high quality, high-performance fuel system...
I just placed an order with Jegs-I've got almost $600 in my new fuel system and that's just the lines and components from the tank to the carb...
I ordered:
1) Aeromotive Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator-Jegs part #027-13301-can be used for carb or EFI applications by changing the stiffer spring included with FPR, and has 3/8" NPT fittings for each (two) outlets and the return. Also rises the fuel rate 1:1 under boost.
2) MSD 43gph (@ 40psi) fuel pump-Jegs part #121-2225-has barbed 3/8" inlet fitting and interchangable 5/16" outlet fitting. We couldn't get the info on the thread size yet, but from the pump to the carb all the fittings and line will be -06AN.
3) Aeromotive SS Series Canister-type fuel filter-Jegs part #027-12308-has 3/8" NPT inlet and outlet and filters to 10 microns. All components and pieces are machined billet aluminum. This filter will mount between the fuel pump and the regulator.
4) Aeromotive SS Series Canister-type fuel filter-Jegs part #027-12318-has 3/8" NPT inlet and outlet and a stainless steel 100 micron filter element. All components and pieces are machined billet aluminum. This filter will mount above the rear axle and between the fuel pump and the tank. I went with this 100 micron in this location to prevent starving the pump.
5) Russell Blue -06AN 250psi line, 25'-this line will serve as the fuel feed line and the return since I'm currently running a Weber DCOE but will switch to EFI once I have all the components needed.
6) A vast assortment and array of adapters and fittings to connect the various components and lines together in the Jeg's brand black push-loc style. I'll still need more I know, but I went ahead and ordered the ones I know I'll need for my system...
This system will have a minimum ID of 3/8" from the pump to the carb, and I'll keep 3/8" ID from the SE tank to the pump. The car is an '83 GS and still currently has a 12a, but I've got a good SE 6-port 13b that will be swapped in within a month or so. I finally have the time to perform the modifications and install the parts I've been ordering...
After the 13b swap, I'll still keep the Weber and keep it N/A until I have fabricated my custom DCOE adapter and turbo manifold. I plan on running the N/A 13b for a month or so to make sure I've got the rotary valves and actuators working properly, then I'll collect the parts I need to run them off of regulated boost pressure. I'm still unsure of the details I'll need to properly inject her, but I'll start with a carbed turbo once those parts are made. I know I don't want to keep the restrictive stock SE air flow meter, so I've still got options to weigh and a LOT more research to do before she receives injectors. Anyway, I'm hoping and pushing for close to 300hp at the flywheel and a good torque curve at the lower end of the spectrum, with a limit of 12-15psi.
I have recently received a 6lb aluminum flywheel and the counterweights needed to install it, so it should rev a bit quicker too. I know it may be harder to drive on the street with this. but I'm prepared for a bit of a sacrifice in that area...
I've also bought the GP-1 body kit from Extreme Dimensions. You know, the one with the boxey-style rear valance. The pics you see everywhere don't really do it justice-the rear isn't really THAT bad but it is a bit more "square" that I would've designed it...
I just had to vent and bit and brag about the parts I've got-I'm quite excited if you can't tell. This car is going to be one mean street machine after she's completed (or at least driveable).
Any comments, suggestions, or even criticism are completely welcome! Please let me know what you guys think of this set-up! Thanks in advance for your time, help, and cooperation...
-Adam Collins
I ordered:
1) Aeromotive Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator-Jegs part #027-13301-can be used for carb or EFI applications by changing the stiffer spring included with FPR, and has 3/8" NPT fittings for each (two) outlets and the return. Also rises the fuel rate 1:1 under boost.
2) MSD 43gph (@ 40psi) fuel pump-Jegs part #121-2225-has barbed 3/8" inlet fitting and interchangable 5/16" outlet fitting. We couldn't get the info on the thread size yet, but from the pump to the carb all the fittings and line will be -06AN.
3) Aeromotive SS Series Canister-type fuel filter-Jegs part #027-12308-has 3/8" NPT inlet and outlet and filters to 10 microns. All components and pieces are machined billet aluminum. This filter will mount between the fuel pump and the regulator.
4) Aeromotive SS Series Canister-type fuel filter-Jegs part #027-12318-has 3/8" NPT inlet and outlet and a stainless steel 100 micron filter element. All components and pieces are machined billet aluminum. This filter will mount above the rear axle and between the fuel pump and the tank. I went with this 100 micron in this location to prevent starving the pump.
5) Russell Blue -06AN 250psi line, 25'-this line will serve as the fuel feed line and the return since I'm currently running a Weber DCOE but will switch to EFI once I have all the components needed.
6) A vast assortment and array of adapters and fittings to connect the various components and lines together in the Jeg's brand black push-loc style. I'll still need more I know, but I went ahead and ordered the ones I know I'll need for my system...
This system will have a minimum ID of 3/8" from the pump to the carb, and I'll keep 3/8" ID from the SE tank to the pump. The car is an '83 GS and still currently has a 12a, but I've got a good SE 6-port 13b that will be swapped in within a month or so. I finally have the time to perform the modifications and install the parts I've been ordering...
After the 13b swap, I'll still keep the Weber and keep it N/A until I have fabricated my custom DCOE adapter and turbo manifold. I plan on running the N/A 13b for a month or so to make sure I've got the rotary valves and actuators working properly, then I'll collect the parts I need to run them off of regulated boost pressure. I'm still unsure of the details I'll need to properly inject her, but I'll start with a carbed turbo once those parts are made. I know I don't want to keep the restrictive stock SE air flow meter, so I've still got options to weigh and a LOT more research to do before she receives injectors. Anyway, I'm hoping and pushing for close to 300hp at the flywheel and a good torque curve at the lower end of the spectrum, with a limit of 12-15psi.
I have recently received a 6lb aluminum flywheel and the counterweights needed to install it, so it should rev a bit quicker too. I know it may be harder to drive on the street with this. but I'm prepared for a bit of a sacrifice in that area...
I've also bought the GP-1 body kit from Extreme Dimensions. You know, the one with the boxey-style rear valance. The pics you see everywhere don't really do it justice-the rear isn't really THAT bad but it is a bit more "square" that I would've designed it...
I just had to vent and bit and brag about the parts I've got-I'm quite excited if you can't tell. This car is going to be one mean street machine after she's completed (or at least driveable).
Any comments, suggestions, or even criticism are completely welcome! Please let me know what you guys think of this set-up! Thanks in advance for your time, help, and cooperation...
-Adam Collins
04-14-08, 07:39 PM
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Sounds like you got quite pile of stuff, post some pics of the body kit, I'm interested in that one as well but gotta wait till next year at least.
I still have to purchase the RE-Speed R&P kit before I do anything else.
Good luck
I still have to purchase the RE-Speed R&P kit before I do anything else.
Good luck
04-14-08, 07:52 PM
#3
Welcome to game of aftermarket parts and deep pockets. Think I have over $1500 into my fuel system, seems to never end. Restored tank, dual intank walbro 255lph's, BG fuel 12" heat sink, aeromotive filter, all SS braided lines, KGparts fuel rails, aeromotive Y splitter, aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 720/1600cc injectors.
Alot of cash, but the end product is worth it. Post up lots of pictures it's always fun watching how others projects are going especially with so much invested!
Alot of cash, but the end product is worth it. Post up lots of pictures it's always fun watching how others projects are going especially with so much invested!
04-16-08, 09:23 AM
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I need to snap some pics and figure out how to post them on here. Dan, you're exactly right-all the parts I've bought from Jeg's are currently for my carb'ed system, but the good thing is that EVERY single component that I've ordered from them will work with the EFI system that I'll eventually run too. That was a main factor in selecting those parts.
Now to figure out where to mount my 100-micron canister-type fuel filter (that's the only item that was on back-order, but the dimensions are the same as the 10-micron filter). I had no idea how big and bulky that thing was!
Now to figure out where to mount my 100-micron canister-type fuel filter (that's the only item that was on back-order, but the dimensions are the same as the 10-micron filter). I had no idea how big and bulky that thing was!
04-16-08, 11:15 AM
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Man that sounds like a sweet setup. Don't forget to post pictures of build as you go love seeing how everyone else has setup the car, so that way some day when I actually get the cash together for my project. Then I will have some good ideas and basic layout for my setup.
Thanks
Thanks
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04-17-08, 01:03 PM
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I'll try to remember to bring my camera and laptop tomorrow so I can at least post a link to the pics via photobucket.com or something similar. Thanks for everything guys...
04-17-08, 01:06 PM
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Oh yea-the interchangable fitting on the MSD pump is the inlet fitting. The outlet fitting is a fixed (non-interchangable) barbed-type fitting for 5/16" ID line. Does anybody have any good ideas or suggestions on how I should adapt this 5/16" barb fitting to -6AN line? Another call to Jeg's in the near future for me...
04-22-08, 11:48 AM
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Here's the MSD mounted fuel pump. Notice the nice Casper's Electronics GM-style weather-proof connectors. The fuel pump is wired through a relay to directly draw it's current from the battery through 12awg wiring instead of the factory 18awg. The battery will sit in the rear hatch area, just in front of the passenger's side taillight...
Sorry for the crappy pic quality, but I'm in a rush to get back on the clock and make at least a poor man's half-day salary...
Sorry for the crappy pic quality, but I'm in a rush to get back on the clock and make at least a poor man's half-day salary...
04-22-08, 11:52 AM
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All the fittings are Jeg's brand black anodized -06AN, and I just got a BEAUTIFUL aluminum fuel cell yesterday, so I've got to remove the SE tank and start hacking to install that. Then another call to Jegs should have all the fittings and lines straightened out, I just need to find an M12x1.5 to -06AN male fitting for the Weber 45 DCOE...And I still need the adapters for the 2nd gen oil cooler, too. I'll probably get them from RB, unless I can find a better deal on them and the carb fitting (I REALLY want the black anodized) from another source...
04-24-08, 08:26 AM
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Damn Jeff, I saw that you'd replied to this thread and thought you may have been offering some of your priceless advice...
I'll cut you a helluva deal, but shipping it will be a pain. Most places won't ship it if they know it once had fuel in it, but I could pack it up really nice (after a thorough cleaning) and tell the shipping company it's a new fuel cell that's never been used. I'll PM you with my email addy and cell #...
I'll cut you a helluva deal, but shipping it will be a pain. Most places won't ship it if they know it once had fuel in it, but I could pack it up really nice (after a thorough cleaning) and tell the shipping company it's a new fuel cell that's never been used. I'll PM you with my email addy and cell #...
04-25-08, 03:59 PM
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A couple more pics...sorry to post them as attachments only, but I'm kind of in a hurry to get a lot of other stuff done. Hope you guys understand...
04-26-08, 12:53 PM
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That tank looks night and day better than mine. Have you seen the pic of the inside through the filler tube of mine? It's featured in my S model thread. There were rust chunks the size of half dollars in there, lol. It came out of the GSL-SE that's getting the 4 rotor. Your tank is definitely going to a good home. First it will feed a supercharged 13B, then a 20B in the S model. 
Hey, if things work out, I may even squeeze in a peripheral ported 12A between the 13B and 20B. We gotta make some peripheral ports for the 4 rotor engine so what better way to test them than to build a test engine and try it in the S model?
By the way, how much HP will your fuel cell support at carb pressure? If both bungs were used as send lines to two fuel pumps, how much HP do you think it would support at 3PSI?
Hey, if things work out, I may even squeeze in a peripheral ported 12A between the 13B and 20B. We gotta make some peripheral ports for the 4 rotor engine so what better way to test them than to build a test engine and try it in the S model?By the way, how much HP will your fuel cell support at carb pressure? If both bungs were used as send lines to two fuel pumps, how much HP do you think it would support at 3PSI?
04-28-08, 04:57 PM
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No **** Gavin, that thing was NASTY when I got it. It's since been cleaned and looks night and day better, but it was in bad shape when I received it. I can't complain though, I've only got about $5 in it...
The twin -08AN fittings in the sump would probably support up to 600HP or more at 3-8psi, I'd guess. The actual ID of the -08AN fittings is .438", or 7/16". If 1/2" ID hose or lines were used and the right pumps, that fuel cell would probably support more than that. I won't even need half of that, but for what I have in it I figured what the hell-why not? It's lighter than the stock tank and should hold more fuel also, not to mention it'll give the car a "built" look when you see it peeking through the rear hatch. And I don't have ANY kind of inspection or emissions testing here, so I can get by with driving it on the road with all the mods it's getting (just as long as all the lights work, it's licensed, tagged, insured, and under 90db...)
The twin -08AN fittings in the sump would probably support up to 600HP or more at 3-8psi, I'd guess. The actual ID of the -08AN fittings is .438", or 7/16". If 1/2" ID hose or lines were used and the right pumps, that fuel cell would probably support more than that. I won't even need half of that, but for what I have in it I figured what the hell-why not? It's lighter than the stock tank and should hold more fuel also, not to mention it'll give the car a "built" look when you see it peeking through the rear hatch. And I don't have ANY kind of inspection or emissions testing here, so I can get by with driving it on the road with all the mods it's getting (just as long as all the lights work, it's licensed, tagged, insured, and under 90db...)