RotarMotor

Hi,
After looking for 6 months, I found an RX-7 (clearly the best car of all time! ) from 1981. There are a couple of things that I could change to make it perfect can anyone help me?

How much play should be in the steering wheel (I can move it a lot before getting a result)

Neither my remote fuel cap opener or my remote boot opener work. Does anyone know a common fix for this?

Thank you very much!

RotarMotor

When I say remote opener, I mean the button by the dash

Josepi

In regards to the door and hatch buttons (boot? I guess you mean the rear hatch...)

They are electrical switches that voltage travels through, powering a solenoid. That solenoid (electric magnet) is what is responsible for opening the fuel and hatch doors. Soo, first make sure that when you use the switches, they are getting voltage at the solenoid. Next, check for operation of the solenoid itself. It can be that it is just reeeeeeeeaaaaaaaally dirty and jamming, or the solenoid is bad (it is 20 years old ). I hope you have found the emergancy releases for both?

Denny

Pardner...

Replace the idler arm bushings....Then new tie-rod ends, and go over to polyurethane bushings to replace rubber ones...

Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...

ScruffyChimp

Hi there.

Good luck with your new car, RotarMotor!

It's a hell of a feeling to finally get one after waiting for ages, isn't it? Enjoy it.

By the way, guys: New Zealanders, Australians, and possibly the English call the rear interior of the car "the boot", as opposed to "the hatch" or "the trunk".

Bye,
ScruffyChimp

APT CSVT

I don't know for sure, but they might be on the same fuse. Check that first.

Felix Wankel

Also go to mazspeed.com and look up the steering box fix

speckamp

First off, congrats on your purchase, love the car and it will love you back

Spec is something like ~1/2 to 3/4" play in the steering wheel. After this long you're bushings are shot unless the prev. owner replaced them, for ~100$ you can get a full set of polyurethane bushings and bits for the car. Well worth the investment. Also, look into springs and struts, since I'm sure yours are old and tired (again, unless the prev. owner has recently replaced them), when I did mine I noticed a world of difference (even in the steering). The idler arm is probably shot, it's really close to the exhaust manifold and degrades pretty quick. It's a pretty cheap job to do. Then check the mazspeed.com page for the steering box adjustment procedure if that doesn't help.


For the remote releases, it's pretty simple electrical diagnosis. Check the fuse, the switches and then the solenoids. If everything works but not together (switches get power and work alright, and the solenoids actuate properly when you put power to them, check the wiring harness. In this case a wiring diagram is invaluable. The Haynes manual has one, but if you can get your hands on a Factory Service Manual, you'll be golden.

Good luck, and welcome aboard!

--matt