V8kilr

OK here is my carb after rebuild,
My carb on left s3 style and stock S2 style on right (mine had even more stuff on it)


same again oppisit side



OK sterling check out these pics and tell me if I need to include something.
I put everything back on that I thought I needed, some choke stuff was left out.



OK and I plan to block this section off

and this section

V8kilr

Here is how I wired up the sec's, its temp, I am going to hit it wil my mig on the 2 levers circled.



This is right at the point that the sec's are getting rdy to start to open.



This is full open prim's and sec's




and here is a shot looking down my carb


here is a shot looking down the carb I want to send to Sterling




Let me know what you think and what those spots are for that I am about to blockoff, the older carbs dont have them and I can find info on them in the haynes.

thanks

wwilliam54

the first set is the altitude compensator
the second set of holes is for the vac secondaries

V8kilr

Sounds like its A.O.K. then

Man this thing is so much lighter then it was before.
And it even looks like a carb, instead of a carb on life support.

V8kilr

I would love to ditch this mess


but I know I need that (thingy watchamacallit) to help from stalling out on return to idle, and the other bracket im sure I need with the throttle return spring, although thoughts have passed my mind of going to a lighter spring to give a more plush feel in the pedal (like a fuel injected car).

wwilliam54

i remember stripping my nikki down, went from like 20lbs with 50,000 hose, to a simple effective carb

wwilliam54

i took the dashpot off for a while, ran fine, just shot flames easier

V8kilr

Did I wire my mech's like everyone else does? or does everyone else do it differently?

wwilliam54

thas how mine are

V8kilr

You say "for a while" why did you put it back on? any trouble stalling, low dips in rpm on return to idle and such?

wwilliam54

i just wanted to be able to let of fthe gas at all and not have flames

V8kilr

Did you get alot of backfiring also with the flames, not like the POOF kind but the anoying *POP* kind.

wwilliam54

nah, just alot of close throttle afterburning

Sterling

Dave-

PHOTO #3 (...oil metering side profile)
-This throttle sensor can be used as an adjustable switch for the system you are developing (so that it will turn off at a given RPM).


PHOTO #4 (...dashpot side profile)
-I see you've fubared the fast idle linkage that is operated by the choke (or so it looks). Try reinstalling the one from the other carb. It's nice to have, and even if you don't experience cold start-up temperatures, you can manipulate the linkage tabs that dictate the fast idle speed to help with your ignition developments and other experiments where you need the carb to stay at "XXXX" rpms.

I also see that you still have the "Float Bowl Vent Solenoid" ...(why couldn't they just call it the damn "vent plunger"!?) hooked up. Make sure you source that back up to the 12V+ black & white lead that goes to it.
This thing is such a damn trouble maker!
You can remove the carb top, and then the solenoid, and you'll see the little plunger inside. The plunger is a white plastic cylinder riveted in there with the solenoid pin that gets spring loaded into the electromagnetic solenoid.
Remove the floats and needles, and hold the carb top in your hand with the plunger perfectly lined up, sitting perched dead center, and smack that bastard with a hammer!
The twenty year old plastic cylinder will break apart, sometimes downright shattering, and then you can release all the pieces.
Simply screw the solenoid, or some other suitably threaded short bolt, along with an aluminum crush washer.
Besides, it's fuggly!

Ditch the dashpot if you don't mind some backfiring. I've never seen it on my car because it's rare that I'm following my wife when she drives it. There have been instances where we both met for dinner and I did follow her, but she never gets on it enough. However, when I drive at night I can see the illumination of the flash in my rearview mirror.
This won't harm anything, and it's not so much a carb thing as it it is a "rotary" thing.

PHOTO #5 (...altitude idle comp valve plumbing...)
-This should be all plugged up. If not, then you'll lose signal to the main circuit through the emulsion system.
-Yes, that's right! The altitude idle compensation circuit is THE most elaborate circuit in the carb BY FAR, and snakes through all three sections of the carb.
There are two holes that introduce air entry vacuum to the idle comp valve, and two that lead throughut the carb. Be sure to plug all four.

PHOTO #6 ([/i]...vac. sec.s box circuit[/i])
-Plug the entry hole for the circuit here. This may not constitute a vacuum leak per sae, but it will take from the venturi velocity and therefor main circuit signal from that venturi at high RPM, though I cannot say for certain just how bad it would be. (Might be nill.)
But most importantly is that it will be an introduction of unfiltered air into the intake. Yeah, it's tiny, but you just need one grain of sand to make your teeth hurt!

PHOTO #7
-Whatever works. But don't weld it.
I fail to understand why people feel compelled to weld the linkages of their carbs!!! It's simply not necassary, and makes for a mess if you want to change or tweak something.
If I recieve a welded linkage as a core carburetor, I will promptly return it postage due.

PHOTO #8 & #9
-The second photo is the important one of the two. You want to be sure that both sets of valves are open straight up and down @ WOT.
Looks good.
There's a lot of leaway on a stocker...In other words, they don't have to be perfect when it's only pulling 313 cfms tops. The rest of the carb is such a flow impedance that if the valves are 2 or 3 degrees from full open, you won't notice.

PHOTO # 10 & #11
-The 79s and some 80s carbs have a bigger choke opening than the later years.
This was one of the first flow impedances Carl and I adressed..."How will we open this up on the Sterling Carb and still be within reasonable cost effectiveness?"
Well much to our surprise, (...and happiness!!!) the difference in results that Carl got on his bench on the first Sterling Carb with either horn was near about 4 cfm @ full flow, IIRC. (Carl might know off the top of his head.)
Point being, though it seems that the larger choke hole would help flow, it really doesn't. That carb flowed 430 cfm. The smaller one is simply just big enough to accomidate the 450 cmf the Sterling Carb now flows.

V8kilr

I see now the inkage is missing, and the tabs where already bent.
I will throw one on but the car rarely sees a cold start.

Quote:

Originally posted by Sterling
I also see that you still have the "Float Bowl Vent Solenoid" ...(why couldn't they just call it the damn "vent plunger"!?) hooked up. Make sure you source that back up to the 12V+ black & white lead that goes to it.
This thing is such a damn trouble maker!
You can remove the carb top, and then the solenoid, and you'll see the little plunger inside. The plunger is a white plastic cylinder riveted in there with the solenoid pin that gets spring loaded into the electromagnetic solenoid.
Remove the floats and needles, and hold the carb top in your hand with the plunger perfectly lined up, sitting perched dead center, and smack that bastard with a hammer!
The twenty year old plastic cylinder will break apart, sometimes downright shattering, and then you can release all the pieces.
Simply screw the solenoid, or some other suitably threaded short bolt, along with an aluminum crush washer.
Besides, it's fuggly!.

WTF does all that mean, its like a just read a paragraph in Spanish.

Quote:

Originally posted by Sterling
Ditch the dashpot if you don't mind some backfiring.

Consider it gone

Quote:

Originally posted by Sterling
PHOTO #5 (...altitude idle comp valve plumbing...)
-This should be all plugged up. If not, then you'll lose signal to the main circuit through the emulsion system.
-Yes, that's right! The altitude idle compensation circuit is THE most elaborate circuit in the carb BY FAR, and snakes through all three sections of the carb.
There are two holes that introduce air entry vacuum to the idle comp valve, and two that lead throughut the carb. Be sure to plug all four.

PHOTO #6 ([/i]...vac. sec.s box circuit[/i])
-Plug the entry hole for the circuit here. This may not constitute a vacuum leak per sae, but it will take from the venturi velocity and therefor main circuit signal from that venturi at high RPM, though I cannot say for certain just how bad it would be. (Might be nill.)
But most importantly is that it will be an introduction of unfiltered air into the intake. Yeah, it's tiny, but you just need one grain of sand to make your teeth hurt!

I still need to go through and plug everything, I have no emissions so everything will be plugged.
Also what is that large inlet for above and between the 2 oil metering pump inlets?

Quote:

Originally posted by Sterling
PHOTO #7
-Whatever works. But don't weld it.

OK OK I put down the welder.

Quote:

Originally posted by Sterling
PHOTO #8 & #9
-The second photo is the important one of the two. You want to be sure that both sets of valves are open straight up and down @ WOT.
Looks good.
There's a lot of leaway on a stocker...In other words, they don't have to be perfect when it's only pulling 313 cfms tops. The rest of the carb is such a flow impedance that if the valves are 2 or 3 degrees from full open, you won't notice.

My secondarys never opened 100%, even without the bread tie, only about 95% before the tab on the linkage would hit on the stop. Close enough IMO

Quote:

Originally posted by Sterling
PHOTO # 10 & #11
-The 79s and some 80s carbs have a bigger choke , though it seems that the larger choke hole would help flow, it really doesn't. That carb flowed 430 cfm. The smaller one is simply just big enough to accomidate the 450 cmf the Sterling Carb now flows.

Maybe ebay for the 79

rototiller1

those secondaries are not fully open

V8kilr

They wont open any further, they are hitting the stop.

rototiller1

bend the tang

Sterling

Just be sure to reconnect the lead that goes to the solenoid.
That's the sub-zero starting assist fluid inlet. ...mazda's great idea in theory, but turned out to be one of the first things under the hood to fail.
Inside that bullet plug is a check valve. (...and another great source of a checkball that will work in the AP, if you happen to lose one during a rebuild! )
It is crusty and gummed up and doesn't work, and chances are you couldn't blow through it if you tries with sixty psi!
On the Sterling Carb it is gutted and used for the PCV valve inlet, as the original PCV inlet is on the airhorn (the right angle pipe left of dead-center). That bronze bung gets yanked, along with the right angle pipe, and a freeze plug is inserted.
The reason we bother is this is one less thing to make it more difficult to easily remove the air horn for rejetting.

You could probably just leave it, but good carburetion practice says you should cap it.Good. There's simply no place for a welder on a carburetor.
-Like fixing a grandfather clock with masonary cement.Well, I have to agree with rototiller...they should be opened closer to WOT (straight up & down) than they are. A few degrees off is fine on a stocker, but your's should be opening more.

The primary throttle stop tab is probably what's keeping them from fully opening, though it could be the secondary tab, too, since they're wired up.

The primary T-stop tab is located on the oil metering linkage. Rotate the primary T-shaft to WOT and observe the OMP linkage as the tab on it touches the T-body. If the tab is not touching the throttlebody, then it's the secondary T-shaft stop tab that is holding you up.

Turn your attention to the other siude of the carb, and the end of the sec. T-shaft. You will see that the last linkage part added before the screw (with the exception of perhaps a washer) is the part that makes contact with the primary operated free float link tab...Just look at the damn thing!!!
Anyway, observe the other "wing" on that piece as you open it to WOT. It should be contacting the T-body.

If neither are contacting the T-body @ WOT, then you may not have too much cable slack or other binding happening.
In the case of either tab making contact prematurely, simply tweak the tab appropriately with a pair of pliers.
Tweak anything on the carb in tiny incriments, as it often doesn't take much to make a significant difference.

It should take you less than five minutes to get them to open the proper amount @ WOT; time well spent.