My mix match DLIDFIS system
09-06-04, 02:23 AM
#1
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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My mix match DLIDFIS system
Helo Everyone!
Well,i finally got round to fitting one the weekend!!!!!
The install was very easy,and the results are great!
What did i use?
2x Ford Escort ignitors (1.6 model)The designation number is TP500
3x normal Diamond type coils
2xHugo Plug wires
Some misc wire and small electrical connectors.
How did it feel?
Well, the engine tone differed quite a bit from normal.
I took it fior a drive,and i really was amazed at how "driveable" my BP was.
Goodness me, i could putter along at 2500 rpm in 4th,and it wouldnt buck and kick.
The backfire completely dissapeared!Even with my striaght through exhaust,not a single bang!
What about the Idle?
When i returned from my 50 miles drive ;i saw the idle was much more strong!
I turned the idle down to 1400 rpm!Amazing!Previously it wouldnt idle much below
1600,it would shake and protest!
Timing!
I had a little difficulty getting it to start up.Then i remebered i forgot to check the timing after fitting it.
So i checked the idle with the engine at 1500 rpm,like i normally do.
I was shocked!My timing light was showing 32deg BTDC!I clipped the cable to the other leading wire,and it showed the same.So i retarded it down to 12 deg BTDC,and the idle improved even more.
Thank You!
I would like to thank Jeff20B for being very patient with me,he aswered all my stupid questions.
Please excuse the bad pictures.I will be putting up the nice one`s tomorrow morning.The digi camera`s battery was dead.
Karis
Well,i finally got round to fitting one the weekend!!!!!
The install was very easy,and the results are great!
What did i use?
2x Ford Escort ignitors (1.6 model)The designation number is TP500
3x normal Diamond type coils
2xHugo Plug wires
Some misc wire and small electrical connectors.
How did it feel?
Well, the engine tone differed quite a bit from normal.
I took it fior a drive,and i really was amazed at how "driveable" my BP was.
Goodness me, i could putter along at 2500 rpm in 4th,and it wouldnt buck and kick.
The backfire completely dissapeared!Even with my striaght through exhaust,not a single bang!
What about the Idle?
When i returned from my 50 miles drive ;i saw the idle was much more strong!
I turned the idle down to 1400 rpm!Amazing!Previously it wouldnt idle much below
1600,it would shake and protest!
Timing!
I had a little difficulty getting it to start up.Then i remebered i forgot to check the timing after fitting it.
So i checked the idle with the engine at 1500 rpm,like i normally do.
I was shocked!My timing light was showing 32deg BTDC!I clipped the cable to the other leading wire,and it showed the same.So i retarded it down to 12 deg BTDC,and the idle improved even more.
Thank You!
I would like to thank Jeff20B for being very patient with me,he aswered all my stupid questions.
Please excuse the bad pictures.I will be putting up the nice one`s tomorrow morning.The digi camera`s battery was dead.
Karis
Last edited by karism; 09-06-04 at 02:45 AM.
09-06-04, 03:26 AM
#3
That's so cool!! Hey, I think you're the first person to use Escort ignitors. 
Thanks for the info on how DLIDFIS improved your BP. You and flyboy_es have inspired me to look into possibly half bridgeporting my '73 12A with an '83-'85 rotating assembly. It requires carbon apex seals due to the old style chrome on the rotor housings, so the porting can be anything I want. It really all depends on how much material is still there for the bridge; it's already been streetported rather largely (ports were widened as well as raised). I'll have to look into it. Is a 5mm wide bridge the minimum limit?
Thanks again for the positive feedback! By the way, how much did you have to spend, if you don't mine my asking?
Thanks for the info on how DLIDFIS improved your BP. You and flyboy_es have inspired me to look into possibly half bridgeporting my '73 12A with an '83-'85 rotating assembly. It requires carbon apex seals due to the old style chrome on the rotor housings, so the porting can be anything I want. It really all depends on how much material is still there for the bridge; it's already been streetported rather largely (ports were widened as well as raised). I'll have to look into it. Is a 5mm wide bridge the minimum limit?
Thanks again for the positive feedback! By the way, how much did you have to spend, if you don't mine my asking?
09-06-04, 04:00 AM
#4
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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Sure thing!
Thanks for the kind replies!
Sure you can ask the cost!
Ok,I phoned a local parts store to get the price for the Tp500`s.They quote me R268 each.
So i phoned my engine builder,he said he has some used ones,that i can buy from him for R100 each.the used ones are in allmost new condition.
Used Tp500`s R200
Spark plug wires+necesary little connectors R75.
Comes to R275 +- R8 to the dollar +- $34
If i used new igntors it would be $76.
I got the coil for free!
A 5mm bridge would work good Jeff.The engine will last longer if you would be able to make it as fat as possible.As you know the bridge can sometimes crack from all the heat cycling,but if built right,it will be after many many miles.Are you planning to make the new(aux)port the same size as the mainport or will it be smaller?
Thanks for the kind replies!
Sure you can ask the cost!
Ok,I phoned a local parts store to get the price for the Tp500`s.They quote me R268 each.
So i phoned my engine builder,he said he has some used ones,that i can buy from him for R100 each.the used ones are in allmost new condition.
Used Tp500`s R200
Spark plug wires+necesary little connectors R75.
Comes to R275 +- R8 to the dollar +- $34
If i used new igntors it would be $76.
I got the coil for free!
A 5mm bridge would work good Jeff.The engine will last longer if you would be able to make it as fat as possible.As you know the bridge can sometimes crack from all the heat cycling,but if built right,it will be after many many miles.Are you planning to make the new(aux)port the same size as the mainport or will it be smaller?
09-06-04, 04:50 AM
#5
Not a bad price.
I may not BP this engine afterall. I'd like it to last for many more years.
How do you think a half BP single rotor 13B would run? It would obviously have the equivilant of DLIDFIS (that's a given if I'm doing it, heh). Whatever porting I do, it would have a single rotor leading direct fire ignition system, or SRLDFIS for short.
I already know how I'm going to mod the dizzy IF and only if I want to keep trailing ignition. Otherwise, I'll just use a completely stock dizzy and simply not run a trailing ignitor or coil. I'm sure the late leading spark will make it sound different from a typical Dave Atkins single rotor engine, where he grinds two if the reluctor tips off and then uses the J-109 ignitors in their stock locations hooked to two coils and fired directly coil to plug. his engines have a single leading and trailing spark with a stock-ish split.
As for the carb, I might try a cleaned up (emissions removed) FB Nikki which should flow enough for the porting, even with stock jetting and stuff. What if I plumbed the Nikki so both primaries would flow into a streetported port, while both secondaries would flow into a bridgeported port?
Sorry to hijack your thread a little.
I may not BP this engine afterall. I'd like it to last for many more years.
How do you think a half BP single rotor 13B would run? It would obviously have the equivilant of DLIDFIS (that's a given if I'm doing it, heh). Whatever porting I do, it would have a single rotor leading direct fire ignition system, or SRLDFIS for short.
I already know how I'm going to mod the dizzy IF and only if I want to keep trailing ignition. Otherwise, I'll just use a completely stock dizzy and simply not run a trailing ignitor or coil. I'm sure the late leading spark will make it sound different from a typical Dave Atkins single rotor engine, where he grinds two if the reluctor tips off and then uses the J-109 ignitors in their stock locations hooked to two coils and fired directly coil to plug. his engines have a single leading and trailing spark with a stock-ish split.As for the carb, I might try a cleaned up (emissions removed) FB Nikki which should flow enough for the porting, even with stock jetting and stuff. What if I plumbed the Nikki so both primaries would flow into a streetported port, while both secondaries would flow into a bridgeported port?
Sorry to hijack your thread a little.
09-06-04, 08:10 AM
#6
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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Yip,i ws quite happy with the price.
Well,i all depends on how well the engine was built.That is the main concern.I prefer it,if the main port on a BP is not widend.Its ok for it to be taller.Well, if done right,it will last allmost forever.I have heard of small(ish) BP motors,that has lasted more than 100 000 miles.
How hard do you want to rev it?If it will be more than 9000 rpm then the following applies
1.Proper oil supply : 13Bturbo oil pump,windowed bearings,and lastly at least ;Turbo engine stationary gears(Pref FD)
Other than that,it obviously needs to be properly matched.With this i mean the rotating assembly.Clearancing is normally allso a good idea,if revved high.
Other than that,it doesnt need to have a drilled eccentric shaft,and components like that.
I can go on alott more,on how to build a successful,long lasting BP engine.
I like th idea you have on the ignition,it sounds really nice!
I think the stock Nikki would be able to work fine on the 1 Rotor engine.It will take some tuning for the higher revs,but it should work ok.I`am actually wondering if it wont be a bit big?
Karis
Ps:I think i switched the + and - on the leading pick up.Let`s hope i didnt do any damage..
Well,i all depends on how well the engine was built.That is the main concern.I prefer it,if the main port on a BP is not widend.Its ok for it to be taller.Well, if done right,it will last allmost forever.I have heard of small(ish) BP motors,that has lasted more than 100 000 miles.
How hard do you want to rev it?If it will be more than 9000 rpm then the following applies
1.Proper oil supply : 13Bturbo oil pump,windowed bearings,and lastly at least ;Turbo engine stationary gears(Pref FD)
Other than that,it obviously needs to be properly matched.With this i mean the rotating assembly.Clearancing is normally allso a good idea,if revved high.
Other than that,it doesnt need to have a drilled eccentric shaft,and components like that.
I can go on alott more,on how to build a successful,long lasting BP engine.
I like th idea you have on the ignition,it sounds really nice!
I think the stock Nikki would be able to work fine on the 1 Rotor engine.It will take some tuning for the higher revs,but it should work ok.I`am actually wondering if it wont be a bit big?
Karis
Ps:I think i switched the + and - on the leading pick up.Let`s hope i didnt do any damage..
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09-06-04, 08:38 AM
#8
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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Well,i`am not someone that is easilly impressed.
However,with this mod:it was worth every single cent!
Now to just get the polarities switched right,and then i should have a killer!I think the gains would be even more when i have that right.(i`ll give feedback tomorrow)
Off the record:My fuel consumption improved as well.from 12 mpg up to 13.6 mpg
Edit: Did i do the fuel conversion right?I got 5.2 km/l ,and it went up to 5.8 km/l
However,with this mod:it was worth every single cent!
Now to just get the polarities switched right,and then i should have a killer!I think the gains would be even more when i have that right.(i`ll give feedback tomorrow)
Off the record:My fuel consumption improved as well.from 12 mpg up to 13.6 mpg
Edit: Did i do the fuel conversion right?I got 5.2 km/l ,and it went up to 5.8 km/l
Last edited by karism; 09-06-04 at 08:42 AM.
09-06-04, 08:52 AM
#10
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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Ok,i`am having trouble finding it on the American websites.
If you refer to my small (very bad!)pic,then wou would be able to make out the basic shape of it.
As far as i know,it came on the 1982 FORD ESCORT 1.6L.
On the side opposite the pins,there should be a number saying TP500 in the code somwhere.
Please note that it should have 4 pins,and must not be for a CDI ignition.
Hope this helps?
If you refer to my small (very bad!)pic,then wou would be able to make out the basic shape of it.
As far as i know,it came on the 1982 FORD ESCORT 1.6L.
On the side opposite the pins,there should be a number saying TP500 in the code somwhere.
Please note that it should have 4 pins,and must not be for a CDI ignition.
Hope this helps?
Last edited by karism; 09-06-04 at 09:05 AM.
09-07-04, 03:39 AM
#12
Driveline Killer
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yeah I was looking on kragen.com and Autozone.com and all I could find for the early escorts was the ignition control module. No ignitors though.
Hey Jeff20B would the GM modules work well?
Actually whats the advantage of any of these over the Mazda ignitors???
Hey Jeff20B would the GM modules work well?
Actually whats the advantage of any of these over the Mazda ignitors???
09-07-04, 03:50 AM
#13
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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Well, the advantage over them is:They are easy available from your local parts store,and the are cheap as well.The mazda ones work fine for normal applications.Some of the guys on the forum just use an extra Mazda ignitor the the DLIDFIS system
09-07-04, 01:19 PM
#14
If I had them sitting in front of me, I think I'd choose th eGM HEI ignitors because they're more future-proof than the J-109 Mazda ignitors.
You really should read through all the recent ignition threads on this forum. It's a lot of info to absorb, but worth the read. I even posted a bunch of pics in one of the threads. See if you can find them.
You really should read through all the recent ignition threads on this forum. It's a lot of info to absorb, but worth the read. I even posted a bunch of pics in one of the threads. See if you can find them.
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