is my mazda worhtless?
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is my mazda worhtless?
ok, I want to sell my rex. I hate to do it, but I need something that is good for winter and dosent look like ****.
have no fears, though, I will be restoring one this (or possibly next) summer. Just not the car I currently own.
I was just wondering how much you think my car is worth. I am sure that I would get more $$ if I part it out, although im not sure that is an option (I would like to part it out, but my parrents dont want half a car in the garage)
the car is an 82 GS. It has a good 12A street port with ~21,000 miles, racing beat header and pre silencer (the chrome ones = no rust). There are a lot of good parts on it, but the body is ****.
How much is the engine worth? arent oil coolers worth some money too? mine is leak free
oh, and $50 is not accaptable (im sure ill get the "its in pretty bad shape, ill give you $50" line)
have no fears, though, I will be restoring one this (or possibly next) summer. Just not the car I currently own.
I was just wondering how much you think my car is worth. I am sure that I would get more $$ if I part it out, although im not sure that is an option (I would like to part it out, but my parrents dont want half a car in the garage)
the car is an 82 GS. It has a good 12A street port with ~21,000 miles, racing beat header and pre silencer (the chrome ones = no rust). There are a lot of good parts on it, but the body is ****.
How much is the engine worth? arent oil coolers worth some money too? mine is leak free
oh, and $50 is not accaptable (im sure ill get the "its in pretty bad shape, ill give you $50" line)
#2
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OK, this is my first post on this forum. I'm no expert, but my buddy and I bought 4 first gen RX-7s to build our 2 project cars. We paid:
$50 for a nice straight '81 roller (no engine or tranny - his project car)
$200 for an '84 GSL that had one dead rotor, but a good disc brake/limited slip rear, a good interior and lots of usable parts.
$200 for a friend's 'parts car' that he had for the ITB racer that he sold. Body was worthless, but it was packed floor to roof with good spares.
$450 (way too much) for my straight, solid '84 (then a GS) with a dead engine. But....it was a no-sunroof car with roll-up windows and a good interior... exactly what I was looking for to autocross.
So what's yours worth? If you find someone who wants to fix it up, prolly $400-$600. If they just want the parts, maybe a little less. Other factors enter in here.... (you don't have to reply because it will vary with the potential buyer): Which wheels and tires (and how good are they)? Drum or disc brake rear end? Interior? Sound system? Different things attract different buyers.
Sorry to hear that you have to sell your 7; but, like you said.... you can always find another one to play with!
All4now
CSP7
$50 for a nice straight '81 roller (no engine or tranny - his project car)
$200 for an '84 GSL that had one dead rotor, but a good disc brake/limited slip rear, a good interior and lots of usable parts.
$200 for a friend's 'parts car' that he had for the ITB racer that he sold. Body was worthless, but it was packed floor to roof with good spares.
$450 (way too much) for my straight, solid '84 (then a GS) with a dead engine. But....it was a no-sunroof car with roll-up windows and a good interior... exactly what I was looking for to autocross.
So what's yours worth? If you find someone who wants to fix it up, prolly $400-$600. If they just want the parts, maybe a little less. Other factors enter in here.... (you don't have to reply because it will vary with the potential buyer): Which wheels and tires (and how good are they)? Drum or disc brake rear end? Interior? Sound system? Different things attract different buyers.
Sorry to hear that you have to sell your 7; but, like you said.... you can always find another one to play with!
All4now
CSP7
#4
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yeah, ignore the $50 and definitely ignore the $450 being too much.
I bought my 85 back in 94(95?) for $3200. If I were to sell it now (presuming the airdam were back in prisitine shape) I'd be looking and getting $4K+ it's just that sweet of a car. The 82 GSL I picked up for $400 ran well but rough, but had a fairly rough body.
I bought an 85 GSL for $300 that leaked oil (leak o' death) and had "alignment problems" (DPO didn't notice the valence piece had dropped and wrapped up in the idler arm). Stopped to gas it up and 8 screws/bolts later, it drove perfectly straight.
Don't take bottom dollar for you car. I personally would echo the $700-1400 sentiment. Anyone who says differently hasn't been in the community long enough to matter
I bought my 85 back in 94(95?) for $3200. If I were to sell it now (presuming the airdam were back in prisitine shape) I'd be looking and getting $4K+ it's just that sweet of a car. The 82 GSL I picked up for $400 ran well but rough, but had a fairly rough body.
I bought an 85 GSL for $300 that leaked oil (leak o' death) and had "alignment problems" (DPO didn't notice the valence piece had dropped and wrapped up in the idler arm). Stopped to gas it up and 8 screws/bolts later, it drove perfectly straight.
Don't take bottom dollar for you car. I personally would echo the $700-1400 sentiment. Anyone who says differently hasn't been in the community long enough to matter
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Why don't you take the engine and everything good out, then take the chassis to a junkyard, and find a good rolling chassis to put your motor into?
Trust me, if you got a good SP 12a you want to hold onto it because they don't come cheap. I mean, why take a loss now and respend more money later for the same stuff?
Or, better still, find a good chassis now, do the swap, then junk the rusted chassis.
It's your best bet, I think.
Trust me, if you got a good SP 12a you want to hold onto it because they don't come cheap. I mean, why take a loss now and respend more money later for the same stuff?
Or, better still, find a good chassis now, do the swap, then junk the rusted chassis.
It's your best bet, I think.
#7
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Originally posted by jayroc
Why don't you take the engine and everything good out, then take the chassis to a junkyard, and find a good rolling chassis to put your motor into?
Trust me, if you got a good SP 12a you want to hold onto it because they don't come cheap. I mean, why take a loss now and respend more money later for the same stuff?
Or, better still, find a good chassis now, do the swap, then junk the rusted chassis.
It's your best bet, I think.
Why don't you take the engine and everything good out, then take the chassis to a junkyard, and find a good rolling chassis to put your motor into?
Trust me, if you got a good SP 12a you want to hold onto it because they don't come cheap. I mean, why take a loss now and respend more money later for the same stuff?
Or, better still, find a good chassis now, do the swap, then junk the rusted chassis.
It's your best bet, I think.
find you self a nice non-running FB in good shape and swap every thing.
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#8
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I have been looking, but there isnt much around minnesota. I really want to keep this car, and I might still keep it (its almost spring, its fine in the summer).
The body really is ****. there are some pics of the bad stuff here. also recently added is a dent just in front of the drivers side door (making it impossible to open the door all the way).
The rims are the stock + style, and they are in better shape than the body, but still pitted and one has a gouge from being drilled into a curb. The tires are pretty good, they have maybe 5-7k on them, but I do enjoy burning them up
I agree that the motor and the exhaust is good, and I would like nothing more than to swap it into a good car (it deserves it, afterall) but I would still need another car to drive while its down. Then again, I work only ~2 miles away, I could bike
Anyone have an fb (preferably a GSL-SE) with a bad motor, good body they want to unload?
The body really is ****. there are some pics of the bad stuff here. also recently added is a dent just in front of the drivers side door (making it impossible to open the door all the way).
The rims are the stock + style, and they are in better shape than the body, but still pitted and one has a gouge from being drilled into a curb. The tires are pretty good, they have maybe 5-7k on them, but I do enjoy burning them up
I agree that the motor and the exhaust is good, and I would like nothing more than to swap it into a good car (it deserves it, afterall) but I would still need another car to drive while its down. Then again, I work only ~2 miles away, I could bike
Anyone have an fb (preferably a GSL-SE) with a bad motor, good body they want to unload?
Last edited by Lotus00; 02-21-04 at 04:08 PM.
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Well, good luck, man. It's always hard to find a good norust 1st gen. Ebay has some good finds sometimes.
Really, though. It shouldn't take more than a week, at most, to swap your setup out. So long as you got a good engine puller that is.
Really, though. It shouldn't take more than a week, at most, to swap your setup out. So long as you got a good engine puller that is.
#14
Since there isn’t much were you are, you may be able to get more for your car. I faced a similar situation in NJ when I was trying to find a car to work on. In the end, I paid $900 for an 83 GSX that was completely loaded (power windows, cruse, ac, sunroof, lsd, etc).
It needs paint (the red has no clear coat anymore, there is black touchup paint all over the passenger fender, and there is some metal showing on the roof/hood), the sunroof doesn’t screw down (for those of you who know about these, the worm gear snapped off the round hand crank), it has a cracked windshield, it doesn’t run because the starter was doing the click of death thing, and the clutch also failed to engage.
So far, I have fixed the clutch ($50) by replacing the slave cylinder. I will be replacing the starter on a lift (free lift time, w00t) some time tomorrow. The starter + core price is around $150. The windshield and install (I don’t do glass) will be $230. Paint will be another $500 or so, unless I can talk my body shop owning friend into cutting me a break.
Longish story short: you can easily break $1,000 for your car if there aren’t many around.
It needs paint (the red has no clear coat anymore, there is black touchup paint all over the passenger fender, and there is some metal showing on the roof/hood), the sunroof doesn’t screw down (for those of you who know about these, the worm gear snapped off the round hand crank), it has a cracked windshield, it doesn’t run because the starter was doing the click of death thing, and the clutch also failed to engage.
So far, I have fixed the clutch ($50) by replacing the slave cylinder. I will be replacing the starter on a lift (free lift time, w00t) some time tomorrow. The starter + core price is around $150. The windshield and install (I don’t do glass) will be $230. Paint will be another $500 or so, unless I can talk my body shop owning friend into cutting me a break.
Longish story short: you can easily break $1,000 for your car if there aren’t many around.
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The only problem I see with swapping a new body is that it dosent solve my "need a good winter car" problem.
I suppose I could save all summer for another car, but im going to have a hard time not spending all my money on the mazda
oh, I almost forgot, ill be getting around $600 in the mail soon (yay taxes... kinda). that should get me a start on something
I suppose I could save all summer for another car, but im going to have a hard time not spending all my money on the mazda
oh, I almost forgot, ill be getting around $600 in the mail soon (yay taxes... kinda). that should get me a start on something
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